Need some advice. I'm a little older and cut my teeth on V-8's, blowers and dual-quad's. So I'm kinda new at these smaller cars.

Car 1 is a '90 accord .. straight body decent suspension. 2.2 sohc 4-dr, automatic.
interior rough but salvageable, needs struts, tires, engine has a lower end knock (if it was a 302-351 I would say the main bearings have a limited time left on them) likes to overheat, Tranny works fine , needs alignment.

Car 2 is a '92 integra .. bent, dead suspension, B18-A1, automatic. (deer strike victim) drivers quarter and hoods need replaced, transmission won't shift into high, engine runs fine, suspension is shot , all struts shot, inner tie rod end on pass side shot, front end vibrates when braking, (tried new brakes, calipers, rotors, and outer tie rod ends.. but, shimmy is only when braking) radius arm bushings so shot there is no bushing left. Using E-brake to stop this on.. (LOL this one is my DD)

My thought is to use the integra as a donor car for the engine and missing interior parts then part out the rest of it. What kind of issues might I face with this? My main reason for asking is the ECU in the Teg went out last year and took me almost 3 months to find a replacement. The automatics seem to be hard to do interchanges with. and the last thing I want right now is another ECU problem.
Finally would all this make any difference if I consider trying to migrate one of them into a manual tranny and what kind of can would THAT open up?

Just needing second opinions.. can't afford to fix them both or replace them but, they both look to be so the same.. just seems like it would work out if I did it right.

Thanks for any input..

 

The torqueless wonder that is in your Integra is not for an Accord.

I wouldn't even bother attempting to swap parts over

 

To elaborate further:

- no mount kit exists for a B series in an F chassis
- no one has pinned out the differences for the harness
- the B series in there isn't powerful enough to make it even remotely worthwhile
- F series motors are cheap (sold mine in perfectly fine condition for $150)
- interiors are different (the Civic shares similarities with the Integra however)

 

for the 90 accord its chassis is called a cb7 i have one. for a asston of info go to cb7tuner.com im j3wman on the site and friend me on it to ask questions. its my homepage so i check it everyday.

to be honest the B series engine (teggy engine) is a fantastic engine for what its in, however since the accord by comparison weighs as much as pluto this would be an aweful engine. go to a junkyard cb7s are a dime a dozen there. or alternatively if you want to make oodles of power do an h22 swap. a stock h22 is good for 200hp/190ftlb.

Id just properly do an auto to manual swap if ur sick of ecu issues, idk what to do about the teg. but the cb7 can have a prelude transmission bolt right up to it. The prelude and the accord are more closely related than the accord and integra basically for interior bits the only parts that are a direct swap that i know of are like the steering wheel (maybe?) and the clock on the dash board other than that ur s.o.l.

now onto the accords f22 stock engine. appearently the f22a (the one in the accord) has one of the best flowing heads honda has ever made. so if youre going to go turbo id recommend sticking with that, the h22 is fine to turbo but its a little easier with the f22a, thats what im going to do at least.

If you just want to replace the parts on the accord engines are a dime a dozen and if you must have an engine in the integra and are really strapped for cash a d block out of a civic would go in, but thats like putting a 230 from an impala into a chevelle.

but for more indepth info on the cb7 id go to www.cb7tuner.com for the integra id say ask around in the integra section of that.

 

Deeply appreciate the responses.. Kinda puts me back at square 1 though.. Now I own 2 well abused cars that need help and little foreign car exp to get'um fixed..
The new light ya'll were able to shed on the subject pretty much gives me an idea of my direction anyhow. I really was hoping the 2 would mesh.
I know I'm gunna have to start with the accord since it's the closest to road ready now. And I REALLY can't be using the E-brake full time as my brakes .. not real sure how long them tiny-*** brakes on the back of the teg will allow for it with the TA bushings gone.. ( I know it SOUNDS like HELL back there.. )

Now .. not sure about starting a new thread for this so just gunna ask another question here.. If the engine in the accord was a steel block I would say with the lightness of the knock and the isolation around 2g I could easily get another 6-8 months out of it on the short side probably closer to a year. I put about 100 mi. a day on my dd most @ 45-55mph on reasonable city/county roads not real hilly no real strain on it..
I really don't understand the structural difference between the aluminum and the steel blocks yet. Can I go by the same basic rules for the aluminum or what would be the difference in the wear rate at this point? (Kinda why I never dabbled in foreign cars till recently.. I never trusted my beer can to run my car so to speak...

Also, one other question.. (probably a BUNCH of questions gunna be opened up by this one..) Knowing what I already do .. would I be better trying to get these running or selling them both to try to get enough to buy one in better shape to replace them both?

WOW didn't realize how much changing over from a 5mpg engine to something that would be compatible over-all.

 

they both can be rebuilt for dirt cheap. id just rebuild at least one of em. and aluminium is very trustworthy, its actually superior in almost every way to iron blocks. an iron block is just better for boost. i believe the accord is an aluminium block too. you could probably run the accord for a while but id recommend just swooping by a junkyard and scooping up an f22a6 from a 1990-93 Accord ex same engine but a slightly better exhaust and cam so it has 10 more hp and its very common to find accords.

But back on topic id say just rebuild the accord for a beater til u can afford something else. keep the teg if the body is good cuz it could resale for a profit potentially if you do it properly.