I'm doing a GS-R build (see sig. for a link to the build) and I've decided it's time to get a tune. My GS-R is a 96 so I need an OBD1 to tune. So far here are my mods:

AEM GSR CAI
GSR TB
GSR IM
GSR head stock port
Blox A cams and valvesprings
GSR header
GSR cat
Apexi WS2 exhaust
Fidanza 6.7 lb flywheel

First step for me is to replace the ECU and DIY tune it on Crome. I want to make sure my a/f is safe and get my redline and VTEC adjusted. Next I'll probably replace the header (SK2 Megapower or RMF replica if I'm feeling cheap) and cat with a high-flow cat. Later, I will replace the IM at some point with a single runner SK2 or PerfX, but that won't be for a year or two.

So, meanwhile, should I save the $$ and get a p28, or should I spend extra to have IAB control for a year or two.

 

since your not using stock cams i would have use p72, but since you have aftermarket cams use p28 with hondata s300

 

If your going to run the stock gsr manifold us a p72 that way you can control the iab in the manifold the p28 will not do that.

 

^^ Yeah, I know, it's just that I won't need IAB control forever, and I wasn't sure how much of a difference the long runners would make on my engine with a tune. I was hoping some people around here have run GSR IMs on p28s for a while and could tell me what it was like.

 

Personally since you're going to be doing all that to your GSR, why not do an IM as well. Your power will only be improved over a stock GSR IM, and it will allow you to run the P28 too. The stock IM will only choke your potential power from the setup

 

I'm getting a SK2 or PerfX IM and a 65 mm TB, but not until later because I still need a header and high flow cat and those will do more for my build at this time than an IM will. Cash is limiting so it'll be a while before the new IM comes -- a year or more.

 

the p28 or p72 are basically the same if you're doing a chipped tune. get the 72 since you need the iab function. once it's chipped they are more or less identical.

 

I ran the stock gsr manifold without the iab's hooked up and couldn't stand it for a week, let alone a year. Granted, this was without any adjustment to the vtec engagement, but I still think it would be worth the extra money to find a p72.

 

I'll try unplugging the IAB and driving around, but it seems like p72 is the best bet. It's what my wife liked the sound of as well.

Anyone know of a good place to get socketed ECU's? I see there are a bunch of Ebay stores that sell them. The going rate for p72's seems to be about $200.

I just put a p72 vote for my wife LOL

 

I am currently running a P72 in my GSR. I used the IAB function on my PnP GSR manifold. This kept the midrange torque very nice.
One thing about my build was that I maxed out the IM at about 185whp, and then I changed to an Edelbrock Performer X. You won't max out your manifold probably until you change out your stock header for a better one.

Since you own an OBD1 P72, just use that. When you go to a single runner manifold, disable the IAB.

 

My 96 is OBD2 unfortunately . If only my car was a year older...

I found this online:

http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/pa...tec-ecu-s.html

Seems like I can get a p06 converted to p72 chipped/socketed + conversion harness for $220 shipped. Seems like a good deal. Is there anything wrong with getting a converted p06?

 

Make sure your OBD2a>OBD1 wiring harness has the correct relay to work the IAB.
Your find seems pretty good. I don't agree with the sellers comment about the Performer X, so I'm a bit skeptical.

What about http://www.xenocron.com/index.php ?

 

Im running a chipped p06 ecu on my 97 Gsr. Of course running an obd2a-obd1 conversion harness.

 

Where'd you wind up locating your A/F gauge?

 

200 is steep. 100-150 has always been the going rate.

 

I don't know where the hell people would mount their gauge with the mounting crap that I got from Xenocron which is Innovates product but I taped it above my steering wheel. Ill post a picture but I seriously have no idea how anyone could mount it with their mounting hardware.

 

Both ecus will need to get chipped and tune. doesn't matter which you use.. they are both the same.

 

if there is anyway i can nudge you into blox c cams and jdm itr pistons i really suggest it. you're looking at least at 20whp more and in a very broad rpm range. cost is minimally more.

 

I think I definitely will upgrade cams at some point. What happened was that I was doing a timing belt install and saw it as a chance to swap the cams. I could get any set of new Blox cams for $335, but I couldn't afford cam gears and I knew it would be some time before I could tune. I went with the A's because I thought I could run my engine safely until I got a tune with stock cam gears (still only hit VTEC less than a dozen times since the switch). I also figured they wouldn't breathe well enough to lean me out as long as I had the stock header. After I can tune I'll get a header, cat and IM. Then I'll sell my A's, possibly for a profit, and get C's and pistons.

 

it's not so much breathing as it is compression. C's generally work best above 11:1 compression. use a single runner manifold and tune. 200whp has been had with the Cs & VT on a stock jdm itr more than a few times. dyno charts are in all motor. A's make similar power to itr cams and yes, with the 10:1 of a stock gsr aren't a bad choice. the blox c's are another knock off of the jun3 which is what the endyn bumpstix are also based on.

 

p72 chipped is sexy

 

i have a gsr swap in my 95 ex. but i have a blox IM. and i have BC stage 3 cams bigger valves. and everything to build my top end. so which ecu would be better for my car? p72(i have on there now) or p28?

 

The only difference between the p72 and p28 is that the p28 has the ability to control the intake air bypass (IAB) butterfly on the dual-runner GS-R intake manifold. All aftermarket IMs for Hondas use a single runner design, so they don't need IAB control.

You've got a Blox IM, so you don't need IAB control. A p28 would work fine for you, but there's nothing wrong with keeping your p72. The only issue is that p72s cost more, so from a money standpoint there's no reason to buy a p72 unless you have a GS-R IM. If you were going to buy a new ECU (if you need to switch to OBD1, for example), you should buy a p28 to save money, but if you've already got an OBD1 p72 you might as well just keep it.

 

Read the post made by All_Motor and you will have your answer.

 

ok ill just stick with the p72. thanks alot!