Hello,

I'm looking for the right cam to run with this setup:

11.6:1 84mm ycp pistons
B20b block
b16 head
ITR intake manifold

This is a basic street setup for my daily driver. What would be the best cam profile to use to make the most of the compression but still retain manors for the street. I have a set of GSR cams but I don't think they will be enough.

Cheers,
Ben

 

pro2's

 

blox c r nice

 

Blox C are fairly aggressive no? I don't want to sacrifice a lot of idle quality.

 

there jun3 copies

 

Yeah Jun 3s are pretty hairy.

 

They aren't, they're in the same category as skunk2 stage 2 tuner cams, Rocket M22x cams and others with their stock like primary lobes, they're easy to tune as well. Pro 2's will probably give you the most power out of all of them as they're the largest cams more or less. They just need to be installed correctly and tuned correctly to be effective, powerful and reliable like most anything else.

 

Good to know. So that means the Jun3, Blox C and Endyn bumpstix are all the same? Does blox provide specs for dialing them in with the degree wheel?

Also are the Jun 3 copies the Blox C in the tuner series or competition series? Their website lists 2 under Type C.

 

+1

 

I know for sure that the Blox C's are an exact duplicate of the Jun 3's. I've heard that the Bumpstix are copies as well but can't confirm it. The way I understand it, there is only one model of Blox C and their site may be wrong but you'll have to check with them. You can install them at 0/0 and tune them from there assuming there's no milling or decking correction needed.

 

In my opinion best cam for daily driver is late year type R cam. Reliable, stock valve train, good power and will last longer than your bottom end.

All these other cams will have you opening your valve cover and replacing parts at least once every year or two.

Pro 2s will use up the valve springs in 1 year, idle is not really street car in my book (degreed or not) and they WILL eat your rockers, gueranteed. They are RACE cams and all these things are replecable, but this is domain of race parts, always something to do on the car for a bit extra power.

Either way 10-15 WHP is not worth the hassle in my book. You'll make 200WHP+ even with typeR cams and again to me that is plenty of reliable power for DD.

Anyway this is just my point of view...


Nino

 

ninor, I realize it's your point of view but you're making some very strong statements, what are you basing them on? There are a number of people on this site who've run the pro2's and 3's for longer than a couple years with no reliabiltiy or idle quality issues either. Just a question, not trying to rudely challenge you.

 

Sorry, but blox c's are not a 'hairy' cam. You install them correctly, adjust lash, and tune. There is no lumpy idle. Your tuner will fix this for you.

Also, pro2's are not a race cam. They will not eat rockers. You have to check your rockers before you install the cams. Plus, this parts are approaching 10 yrs+ on the last production run.

 

How do you like your M22x cams? They are in the same range?

I appreciate everyone's input. I was thinking along the same lines as ninor, but people seem to be having luck with more aggressive cams. It''s interesting to hear peoples actual experiences.

 

I like the M22x cams on my car a lot. They are in the same range as the Jun 3, S2S2 cams and to a certain extent the pro 1's. The pro 2's are larger cams that should make more power everywhere compared to the m22x.

 

I understand that is your opinion, but my direct experience is the opposite.

First, there are several aftermarket cam profiles that are significantly better than CTR/ITR cams in a daily driver. BC3+ would be an obvious example. They have a much better mid-range and are not nearly big enough to significantly increase rocker wear. CTR/ITR cams were a good option 5-10 years ago, before some of the newer aftermarket profiles came out.

Second, I know a couple of people with Pro2s (and several with Pro1s) who have run them for more than a year and they did not "eat" their rockers or "use up" their valve springs. Jun 3s have roughly the same total lift as Pro2s and I built a couple motors that have been running them for over eight years with no valve train issues.

 

Pro 2s are the way to go.... Once degreed in right and your valve lash set correctly, it idle and run perfectly... Paired with the necessary with valvetrain components, I see no reason or evidence why they would wear down parts more than oem.... I'd installed a pair in my stroked B16B motor sometime ago and it idles perfectly from the first start up and never had a problem since... My gears are set at +3E,-1I but you still need to degree this camshafts or any aftermarket camshafts for that matter... My settings may not do what it has done for me for you if you choose to get these cams.... These will no doubt earn power throughout your entire powerband with a competent tuner...
Ninor, i understand that it is your opinion but do you mind providing supporting evidence to these ideas of yours....

 

Do not take it offensive, but I thought U know RM cams better... x non vtec lobe profile are far bigger than U can find on the todas or S2pros, therefore idle is affected. P2 is not that big, about the same as m22 IMO.

BTW I agree on the recommended list.

 

None taken. The cams with one X (m22x)have very close to stock like primary lobes which makes them really easy to tune and idle. The cams with two xx (m22xx) have the large primary lobes which affect things like you mentioned.

 

x has 1, xx has 2 of the same big nonVTEClobe profile.

I have exp with 22x, 24x, 25x... none of them idled like stock (degreed & tuned).
Very good idle is feasible ~800-900, but that is far from stock for me.

 

i have pro2s in my b20 12.0 comp degreed and my tuner made a lopy idle for me he said he could make it idle like stock if i get tired of it.driveability is good

 

From what I have read it almost seems like BC3+ would be ideal. Good midrange, and pulls to about 8k, can keep my stock valvetrain.

 

i say run type-r cams thats what im running =]

 

m22x's would be a good came for this motor 11.6 doesn't seem to press for the pro2's.
blox c's , m22x's or the pro1's i'd run.

 

im running skunk2 tuner stage 1 with 11:0.1 compression i would go with tuner 2 or pro 1