i wanted to know if it would be possible to swap in a 09 tl type swap into my 2001 acura tl....?

 

wat would be the issues i would run into if there were any????

 

They did not offer the Type-S in 2009. Do you mean the 3.5 in the 07-08 TL-S, or the 3.7 in the 2009+ TL?

 

sorry meant the 08 3.5 type s swap........

 

It wouldbe a lot easier to do the j32a2 swap (02-03 TL-S) and use odyssey/mdx crank and rods and RL pistons for a 3.5 stroke.

 

sell current car and buy 08 TL type S. it will be SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper

 

LMFAO. I really wish you would do a little research before replying, I feel I need to correct you a LOT.

The cheapest you can get an 08 TL-S for is about 20k. Now tell me, how in Gods name is an engine and tranny swap going to cost twenty thousand dollars??

 

$20k for an 08 TypeS?! When? 2012?
GL finding a decent 07 for that price.....

 

I could give you the same advice I gave YeuEmMaiMai

http://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchr...ice&sf1Dir=ASC

 

Maybe it was a slight exaggeration or was it?

by the time you add in how much you time you will have in getting the parts and whatnot and then the cost of the driveline it's not gonna be cheap how much do you think a 08TLS driveline is going to cost you? not to mention your time and not to mention the problems you WILL have to correct if you use the 6MT.....

there are people that have done it and they all say pretty much the same thing. it is a giant pita to get it working right. you know the new J series block is 1/2" shorter right? and most of those guys knew someone who game them the parts for a cheap cheap price

It would be cheaper to just convert the 3.2L into a 3.5L and you would wind up with MORE HP after a proper tune......i mean really now just adding a header gives you a 30 HP increase.......bringing you to 290hp before you even did the coversion or about 278hp using the new numbers- headers are dirt cheap... (using a cheap comparison of the base 3.2TL drop from 270 to 258 and applying it to the older 3.2l+header HP rating)

if you did the swap you gotta get a lot of new parts......but hey have at it...........I'd rather do the 3.5L swap and wind up with 300+hp versus 286 for the driveline swap........

 

Did you even read what I posted?? I suggested the same thing. I didnt say it would be cheap, but nowhere NEAR 20k...

 

Yes I read your post and replied to it since you were only looking at the monitary value of my statement and the reason a suggested he sell it cause overall it would be cheaper not to mention a pretty nice upgrade overall. Time and greif need to be considered when undertaking such a significant project.....

 

And your first statement wasnt just monetary??? lol

I'm not going to argue with you, just that the statement you threw out there could not have been more incorrect. If you meant something else by it, you would have posted it. Thats all.

SO back on topic, pick up a J32A2 engine and trans (unless you want 6spd), use the bottom end from an odessey and if you wanna bump he compression up for more power, use 05 RL pistons. Much cheaper and easier, more power.

 

hi 02-type-S

been a while since i ran across an acurazine guy.

 

lol whats up man

 

Come on guys... ANYTHING can be done.

$20,000?

$1400 for what I have so far...'05 TL engine (75,000 KM) complete w/ 6 SPD trans, shift cables, HASport mount kit, axles, complete engine wiring harness. Sourced it all out from many different places.

I have a lot more parts to buy but I plan to be under $3000 when done and running. The way I've been going so far I should easily be able to make that mark.

Research, research, research. Search for good prices, buy carefully.

If you want to do the '08 Type S swap, you can do it but it will be a bit of work. A LOT of OEM parts can be used, and as with my swap, the benefit of keeping the engine 100% OEM without opening it up is appealing. You would need to use a few aftermarket pieces, but no crazy fab work or anything like that.

The 3.2 to 3.5 stroker build is sweet too. A lot of guys are running some serious NA monsters going this route. You'd need to open it up and switch out the rotating assembly, but this can be done on a reasonable budget, with ALL OEM parts.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

this is just crazy in here... i wouldn't spend that much on a 2001 TL unless it was really worth it. Coming from the Integra (R) forums, I had no idea of these swaps...

 

I have to say, that even though i have done 0 research into this specific motor set up, that the 3.5l oem stroker set up would probably be the best route to go. my justification? if you really, REALLY want to get the most out of a used motor, jdm or usdm or what everdm, you should go for a rebuild. Why? you have no idea how it was used, or abused. plus, if you like the car enough to swap a tired or messed up motor out of it for a new one, why not rebuild it to get the most out of it? new crank rods n pistons seem to justify their cost since you already have to get new rings bearings gaskets etc.

just a thought o/p, just a thought. yes, it would be cool to see a newer motor in your tl, but even more so, atleast imo, would be to have the ability to say yeah, it SAYS it's a 3.2l, but we all know better. and you'd have the numbers to back it up too.

 

OK so, I'm trying to get some help here not help someone..lol.
I have a 2002 acura tl BASE MODEL, I bought it with a blown engine and got a 2002 type s for dry cheap, I was told that it will work and it did! However, my engine light is on and it's scanning at "crankshaft sensor circuit a" I bought a new sensor and replaced it..the light won't come off and it's still scanning as that's the problem.
HELP ME PLEASE!!

 

Hi All, I have a 03 Acura TL and have NO fluid going to the rear right wheel. (I had No fluid going to both rear wheels prior to replacing the proportioning valve, after replacement I noticed the right rear still not getting fluid). Upon installing the new prop valve and after bleeding, I did get brake fluid to the wheel and I though my problem had been resolved. However after only one day I noticed the pedal feeling strange again ( hard and high). I pulled the same right rear wheel , bled and again noticed No fluid to this wheel again . Cant understand why it would be fine for one day and then back to same problem soon after. (calipers are new and not stuck) Im thinking master cylinder but if master was bad wouldn't I also not get fluid from one other wheel? Any help is appreciated.

Thank you
Frank

 

Jesus Christ way to go on the ancient thread revival.