Just got it tune. put down 361hp and 249tq @14.7psi on a dynojet. tune by alex at humberperformance here in tulsa oklahoma.
I got a problem now though. the car hold boost perfect on the dyno. my afr was about 11.0 to 11.5 the the way to 8k. but now on the street it would hit 18 to 19psi and i see 12.6 arf on higher rpm. even hitting boost cut now (i didnt check where my tuner got the boost cut set down). on the dyno my cheap ebay boost controller max out at 14.7 psi. but what i found was that my boost gauge vaccum line was bend. so i re bended back. thats when i found out that i was hitting more boost then normal. call and talk with my tuner and all i got was to check for any vacumm leak. which i did and found nothing.
Here are some question i need help on.
1. Is that vaccum line stealing my boost on the dyno? because on the gsr mani all the vacumm are hook up to the same T.
2. How does everyone like the aem tru boost controller? I am getting rid of that ebay crap. my tuner said that the aem is hard to work with and the greddy one work better? any thoughs?
3. If i get the aem tru boost gauge and just set the boost to 14.7psi. would i have to retune the car again?
4. how do i change the title on the page? exp gt40 Integra gsr built. i need to change that to something differnt?
Motor:
96 Gsr motor
Stock head (only change out the valve seals, new head gasket plus head being mill)
b18c1 block also mill
blox block guard
je 9:0:1 pistion,ring, and locks
eagle rod with 3/8arp bolts
oem new oil pump
oem new water pump
oem timing belt
arp head stud
Solid motor mount

Turbo:
Precision SC61 SC6162SP Turbo .82ar v band
InlinePRO B Series T3 Manifold
2.5 intercooler piping
big front mount intercooler
knock off greddy type rs blow off valve
3" custom exhaust
emusa 38mm wastegate

Brain/Fuel
hondata s300
precision 1600cc injector with resistor box
walbro 255 fuel pump
aem fuel rail
glowshift boost, fuel gauge, and oil pressure
aem wideband
omni power 4bar

Tranny:
f1 st. 4 clutch
7.5 fidanza flywheel
oem stock axles

Other things:
cx racing half size radiator

as you all know my obx turbo shitted out on me. so i am getting a new turbo and manifold that i listed on my chart. will this combnation work out. will those two bolt up together or do i have to change them to something different?

piston getting put in

turbo on for look

motor already in car

 

If you are in Texas, yes, I would highly recommend T1. Good luck with it, homie.

 

Lose the complete turbo setup for something else better.

 

i am in tulsa oklahoma, about 4 hours drive. i am really leaning to them due to the fact that i had some bad experice with my local tuner here before with my s2000 being tune and some time/product that i bought from them.

 

why do you said that?

 

shitty manifold, bad wastegate location, obx turbo is blah so on...

 

yeah everything is not a brand name parts but then i will see how this set up goes. if it dont work out then i can always just part things out and try something new.

 

Bunch of cheap parts. Hopefully it works out for you.

 

thanks

 

The sad part is, when that turbo grenades, its probably going to spit chunks of metal through your ic piping... Hopefully your IC will catch it that will be the only thing ruined, and not your engine... And I really hope no one gets hurt in the process... Go on youtube and search for the videos of how those turbos have grenaded during testing, and see if you still want to run that turbo...

EDIT: Here I went through the trouble of finding it for you as a public service... Enjoy!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Za0DieZHMKc

 

thanks for going threw the work of finding that video. i will still stick with this to see how it goes. if it doesn't work then i can just sell all the good parts and trash away the bad parts.

have anyone run the obx bb turbo before?

 

400 shouldn't be hard with that big of turbo, will it hold up though?

 

i dont know if it will hold up or not but before putting the turbo together i went threw and check for shaft play and took the turbo apart and look for any defect and it seem good. i had a shop check it out too and they said it looks good so only after the car runs will it tells.

 

The OBX turbo will be fine. The wastegate placement on that mani dunno but good luck should be a solid low dollar build.

 

thanks. where is good place for the wastegate?

 

Not on just one exhaust runner, it should be where all four merge together. With a turbo that size and that wastegate placement I bet you will have boost creep

 

thanks. i will look more into that.

 

Bump! Nice to see a low dollar build like this. In for some results

 

Dude...... A turbo is a very important part of a turbo machine. Some things you can cheap on, other things shortcuts aren't advisable. I don't know if you used the search feature on here, but I bet you won't find much info on that OBX turbo here. They have a horrible rep. Some friendly advice, don't try to reinvent the wheel, look at the loads of projects on here and see what they're using.

One more thing, when guys like YARO respond to your thread and you see their signatures, LISTEN to them, you would think they know their stuff. Don't be offended, no one is trying to discourage you, rather encourage you to improve your project.

 

hopefully it turns out good.

 

what you said is really understandable. thanks.

 

Ditch that a block guard, It will hurt more than it will help.

 

how will this hurt more then help.

 

It prevents coolant from touching parts of the sleeves creating hot spots. This can lead to cracking a sleeve.

 

It appears to me that you just started buying stuff without one lick of research on what you were buying, no offence but nothing you have on your car is any better than SSAUTOCHROME stuff IMO....

Had you researched, you wouldnt of put that junk snail on there or that blockguard. If you ask me a no-name FPR is just asking for a leaned out AFR and a cooked motor one day. I am not trying to bust your ***** but I am sure you will join the would of-could of-should of group down the road.

After I witnessed a picture of an OBX diff that was literally cast so shitty it was missing whole hunks/sections of metal and then someone actually assembled it and sold it I wouldnt even run an OBX lug nut or air freshener... not to mention something shaped like a chinese star spinning at 100,000rpm 5 feet from my head.