So guys...

As some of you know, I have built an 81x84.7 B16A2 last year, to a specific racing event, and even though the engine was ****ed up (block and head stupidly milled, main caps stupidly honed, pistons had to be milled 1mm on its base not to hit the head) the engine performed REALLY well...

The specs are:

Head:
Blox B cams
Stock IM
Stock TB bored to 62mm
Blox springs
KMS steel retainers
EBAY pulleys

Block:
.50mm oversized ACL duraglide bearings (oh crap)
84.7mm stroke crankshaft (totally ****ed up, milled to .50 over)
Eagle rods
CP pistons, milled .5mm on its base to fit (I mean, not the dome, but the flat part on it, because it was hitting the head)
New oil pump
New water pump
No ARPs or stuff like that

Tranny:
OEM Flywheel
Stupid cluth that blew on the end of the event
Open diff

Others:
EBAY CHEAP 4x1 (I really hate this)
2,5" exhaust
Skunk2 coilover springs
stock bushings
MSD coil + cap + rotor


Now, as I'm in USA till july, I'm gathering for parts for a next upgrade.

I don't have the money to build the internals again, neither I have the guts to open the engine and see what could have possibly happened in 2k miles running ****ed up like that.

So, I'm going to change the bolt ons only, and drive it untill it blows, then I'll get an brand new OEM b18c1 bottom and stick with it.


Now, what I have in mind is:

Fidanza Flywheel
Bisimoto 4x1 exhaust (good ground clearance as car rides low and streets in brazil are TOTAL CRAP)
Performer X intake
Mfactory LSD (as it is a street/trackday car)
Hondata Heat shield intake gasket
Blox C camshaft

and to fix the mess I made in the track:

innovative mounts
carbon synchros
Tokiko Illumina shocks
EBC yellow pads
Camber kits (never run -4 camber with open diff, my inner slicks were spinning like hell i the corner exits)



Im revving 8350rpms by now, because I'm afraid that the very low clearance between piston and head can be a problem (.4mm) if I go to high on revs, but maybe the new upgrades will make me consider going to 8800 or so...



Now, one thing that I just tought now that I made this topic is:

Considering that will be very hard for me to get a new block or crank, what if I make custom order pistons with the pin deslocated 1mm higher (as if the stroke was 85.7mm) but this just in case the crank haven't been damaged due to the fact is has been milled .50mm..... Or maybe because of the fact that I ran an event + 1000 miles with the clutch missing one puck. (its a 6 puck clutch)
Is that enough weight to unbalance the crank and **** up with the bearings?



Well, I created this topic to receive suggestions on my upgrade as I have some money reserved to it and this is one of the reasons I'm in US right now.

I'm dying to get close to the 200whp, It's kind of a personal bet.

Now some videos of the dyno (as you can see the graph is very smooth) and one street pull (too bad the camera was bad) and some pictures of the car in the track


http://www.streetfire.net/video/All-...zil_736875.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hVFjTrhQxk






GREEN EK FTW



now this was fun:
163whp 1.6L EK4 VS 176whp 1.8L EK4 vs ???whp Supercharged EK4 vs full stock EG6









Sorry for the loads of pics..

Any input would be welcome

 

If you have the room for Pro1s, they are better camshafts. You might be tights on clearances, though . . .

 

yes.. clearance IS a big deal, I'm even considering upgrading other things and don't mess with the camshafts, because things are REAL TIGHT on this build..

And I didn't have the time to degree it (I did in the first build that blew) because this engine was assembled, put in the car, broken in and tuned in 3 days....

 

Im a big fan of the hondata im gasket. I believe it really does make a big difference.

 

get a bpi velocity stack

 

Couple of things..

-Blox C has the same vtec lobe(s) as what you have now...don't bother.
-If you're hesitant on revving past 8,300....I would suggest purchasing some more reputible VT.
- Are you more intrested in making #'s on a dyno or decreasing your lap times?
-You're pissing your $$ away purchasing custom pistons.
-Toda header is probably the best header for the 77 stroke period.
-The track(s) you're racing on, are they short or long? (i.e. are you using allot of midrange or allot of top end? If both, which do you want to improve on most?)

 

The Hondata IM gasket is a part of the upgrade, I just forgot to put that on the post.


Now answering Clean Rice:

-Blox C has the same vtec lobe(s) as what you have now...don't bother.
Good to know, so I'll stick with the B's for now.

-If you're hesitant on revving past 8,300....I would suggest purchasing some more reputible VT.
THe thing is, I feel like I need to, because I see a big gap between the gears that really bothers me in the track, so maybe if I rev like 8800 I can make this situation alot better.

- Are you more intrested in making #'s on a dyno or decreasing your lap times?
I'm more interested in decreasing my lap times

-You're pissing your $$ away purchasing custom pistons.
Ok, I'll stick with my messy bottom end untouched

-Toda header is probably the best header for the 77 stroke period.
I'm on a 84.7mm stroke, and I really need good ground clearance because sometimes I have to drive 500 miles to get to a track and the roads are shitty

-The track(s) you're racing on, are they short or long? (i.e. are you using allot of midrange or allot of top end? If both, which do you want to improve on most?)
Ok, both 3 tracks we have availiable arround, are BIG TRACKS (one of them is Interlagos, which is part of the F1 championship), So I could really use more TOP END power.



I Think that revving a little more and having a little more top end power will eliminate the need of having shorter gear ratios. I know it could make me faster but I don't want to cruise at 6000revs when I get to the highways.

 

Blox B's=Skunk2 Tuner 2
Blox C's=Jun 3's

Are we sure the VTEC Lobes are the same?

 

Regardless of the difference, I gave up on the idea of upgrading the cams, I really think that it is a bad idea to mess with the clearances at this point.


I think that I have a bog room for improovement on bolt-ons, considering I'm running a 40 dollars bent header + stock IM + 62mm TB......

 

Talk to SMSP and see if they have a header that will tuck up close to the oil pan. A good header would not only increase your peak power, but give you more tq through the entire power band.

Add a BPI v stack to the other end and you should see a nice, broad bump in power.

 

I don't know why, I don't know a single person that uses a V-stack in Brazil.

Guess I'll be the first one to do it and show the people that it's worth it.


I just think that it should not be very healthy to run like 30+ laps with an open intake...

It may be OK for drag though. Or just to see dyno #'s and show some haters what a honda is capable of.

I say that because a big portion of the drag racers in brazil use stupid VW AP engines, with TONS OF BOOST, but no power...

Read that as 30psi for some 250whp cars...

 

Ok... I might have made a mistake, but I just ordered my Bisimoto V2 header...

It might not be the best but I can guarantee you guys that is the only alternative to ride in Brazil...


As for my want to buy parts list, it was updated with the following:

-Innovative Motor mounts - U$280,00
-Buddyclub Front/Rear camber kits - U$260,00
-Tokiko Illumina shocks - U$360,00
-Hondata intake gasket - U$40,00

now, I still have some things that I'm not sure about, which are:

-Exedy stg 1 racing clutch - U$270,00 (I suppose it is OK for a 190whp car right?)
-Performer X intake - U$320,00 (any suggestion on this?)
-Blox V-stack - U$44,00


I just realized I won't have the money for an LSD for now... Neither for a lightweight flywheel... Even though I feel like I really need those..

 

You don't have to run it open. The BPI V stack was designed to work with a specific K&N cone style filter. It fits completely over it.

 

well
IM and gasket, header, lightweight pulleys, clutch DEFINITELY.......im sure the imbalance of the one you have has done some damage.

 

Damn... Im really afraid to open this engine because it is so ****ed up that I think it is better to run it till it blows...

But, I'm not running ebay crank pulley, I'm on the stock one...


**** this national clutch may have ****ed me up

 

you still hav the stock size bore dont you?

 

Yes sir...

Going bigger on bore in Brazil is impossible...

there IS NO SINGLE MACHINE SHOP that can install bigger sleeves properly in this country... Many have tried, only 2 or 3 got good results, so It is not worth to try.


Maybe when it blows I will figure out a way to import a 85mm b16 block or something bigger, but it is going to be reaaaaaally expensive, because it is illegal to import engine blocks down there

 

just checkin because i thought i remember you saying something like that before. sorry bout your situation there in Brazil.

 

Yeah it sucks.

Here people only care about this stupid VW's with tons of boost and no power, no traction, no sothing...

There is eventually, some nice cars built but it take looong time and money to build that many give up

 

Like i said befor get a bpi velocity stack and K&N filter, Underdrive pulleys for the Alternator and Power stearing ( AEM like 90 can find used on ebay or here for like $50), the bisimoto v2 header will help you out,

-Also get a larger Throttle body
- 2.5 exhuast to mate to V2 header outlet
- High flow cat/ test pipe

 

well i wouldnt use a cheap pulley.........BUT a good quality lighweight pulley can free up a small amount of power and increase throttle response.

 

-I don't think I'll have the money for a new throttle body for now..
-I do have a 2.5" exhaust with no cat (even though 2010 is the first year where cars need to go through inspection, which means I'm ****ed)
-no cat uhu

I will remove the PS so no need for an underdrive pulley for it. And I'm pretty sure that the V2 header will help me, because I feel like the 4x1 I'm runnin is soooo crappy that I would make more power with the stock B16 one

 

why would you be worrying about clearances with the skunk2 pro 1s? just wondering cuz i have a b16a2 head and i was thinking of using those cams or the blox c