My P20 transmission was good. Did an tranny fluid change before a track event and the fluid looked good. After the track event, I have problem with 1st gear taking off. I thought I killed the clutch initially. But, I found lots of loose metals in the transmission fluid. I guess it is time to rebuild? I know a lot of people would buy a used one but there is no guarantee of the condition and if it will break down after another track day.

Many people said this transmission is strong. I have no idea why it died on me. If I want to continue tracking with this P20, will a stock/regular rebuild hold? Do I need to beef it up? What parts do I need? I really have no idea about this P20 rebuild. My car is running with a JRSC. Please chip in.

 

It is difficult to say without opening the geabox and seeing what's going on.

 

The symptom after the track event is this:
All gears shift smoothly (well, maybe the reverse has a little struggle, maybe once a week? It's been like that). When the 1st gear meet the engagement point and step on the gas pedal, the car struggle to move and the engine/transmission (not sure exactly where the noise comes from, but should be somewhere they closely connected) make loud noise. The struggle as if it were some form of slipping from an engagement.

I personally saw those silver loose metals but I am not aware if there would be brass/bronze metal as well because the oil is still fresh and metals were coated with oil. As far as my limited knowledge about Civic, none of the EG/EH Civic comes with a factory diff. So, something got to be wrong with the tranny?!

The car is still drivable but I perfer not to. I have to slowly engage the 1st gear and step on the gas pedal after the gear is *fully* engaged, not at the engagment point.

 

By P20 I assume you mean 92-95 Civic trans (S20). Are the metal flakes steel or aluminum? If they're aluminum then the 1/2 shift fork likely needs to be replaced. Steel and the 1/2 sleeve assembly likely needs to be replaced. Could be other issues though.

Whether you should upgrade any parts depends on the power you make, tires used, and driving style (i.e. avoid gators or pound them, etc).

 

Aquafina,
S20 is the one from ZC engine but they are somewhat similar. I could not tell if the silver metals are steel or aluminum because I didn't have a magnet at the time.

Can anyone tells me what are the good upgrades I should do since I am at it? I did a quick search and found many options for B series' tranny but not the D series.

 

MFactory offers plenty of D-Trans parts dont they?

 

Destroyer,
I visited their site and they have everything for B & K series. No D series was mentioned. I dropped them an e-mail. Hopefully, hear some good news from them soon.

 

S20 is all 92-95 D's.

MFactory offers many parts for the D. Helical and clutch LSD's, final drives, close gear sets, long 1st gear, synchros, and diff bearings.

Let me know what you're looking to do specifically and I can help you out (your email to MFactory might be fowarded to me anyways).

 

Aquafina,
I was looking up the part number and it said the P20 is the 92-95 EX/Si tranny part number? What's the different between S20 & P20? Can you shine me with some details so I wouldn't order the wrong parts?

Its great to see you here instead of waiting for their reply. Thanks! I will list my questions in order here:
1) How strong a P20/S20 (well, my tranny model) actually is for HPDE or future race. Is it strong enough to hold these stress or a special rebuild is required? I visited the MFactory and all they mentioned on their sites are B & K series. Is B series tranny that strong and popular that I should dump my setup and do a complete B/K series swap for my goal?
2) If a special rebuild (rebuild with aftermarket parts) is required, what parts do I need?
3) Is the MFactory synchros has the same spec as OEM with a stronger strength? What are the differences and benifits do I get?
4) What are the other good options I should also consider since I am at it?
5) I finally found their close gear set from other web site. I am not sure if an online gear ratio calculator is wrong or what, the long 1st gear's top speed increase by 2 mph, and the 5th gear's top speed is only 100mph (which is not good. I reached 125mph before I blew the engine and now, I am hitting 117mph on track). It doesn't look impressing by looking at those numbers.
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...oducts_id=3138
6) If my limited knowledge is correct, the EG/EH Civic doesn't come with a LSD/diff. Would a decision of adding a LSD or not changes the way how I rebuild this tranny (like I have to use different parts and spec)?

Baiscally, I am a noobie about transmission. Plase shine me with details.
P.S. Can you also send me links where I can find the parts for P20/S20? Everyone is telling me that MFactory has good stuffs for D series but I have hard time to find out what they offer. Perhaps, D series is getting really old school and losing love and support?

Big thanks!
-Alan

 

S20 is all 92-95 D trannys. You won't order specific part numbers (from the dealer), just order for 92-95 EX.

To be sure you have an EX/Si trans, look at the case close to the fill plug. There is a casting code between the webbing. A000 = small bearing CX/DX/VX/LX, B000 = big bearing EX/Si.

1. It depends on your driving style, tires, and power. I've broken both a stock diff and FD on track on street tires (pounding gators). A swap is definitely not needed.

2. Parts needed all depend on what is currently wrong with it, and what you want to change.

3. The MFactory synchros are brass for 1/2, and carbon lined for 3/4/5. This will give you crisper shifts and allow you to shift faster than stock brass synchros allow. Synchros are like a brake pad with the gear cone being the rotor, more friction = better shifting.

4. WPC treating and some DLC coatings are nice, but not needed.

5. Top speeds with the gear set depend on your RPM, tire size, and FD. I have used both the stock 4.25 FD and 4.058 FD with my close gear set, coming close to topping out on the VIR backstraight with the 4.058, 7,200 RPM, and 23.07" tires, 2,340 pound car as driven with 100whp. If you can't get the top speeds needed, then it would be better to use the 4.7 or 4.9 FD instead, or use only the close ratio 3rd, and a mix and match of OEM 4/5.

6. LSD is definitely a great upgrade for track cars. I had MFactory make the D LSD's just over a year ago, and the first time on track after installing the prototype was a night and day difference compared to the stock open diff. Using the LSD doesn't affect other parts used (unless you use an OEM LSD, in which case you have to use the matching 14 bolt FD).

You can get everything you need from me including having everything installed if needed. PM or email me regarding that though.

 

Aquafina,
Are you Chris? Haha... I just checked my e-mail and got a reply from MFactory. You are right. They ask me to contact you.

BTW, you have a PM.

 

Why yes I am.

 

Thanks, Chris. I'll just PM you.

 

Is it true that the 96-00 Civic EX transmissions have steel shift forks rather than aluminum shift forks? If they do, would that be better for a track car?

 

All 88-95 trans have aluminum forks, all 96-00 have steel.

I've never broken any of the aluminum forks on the track or street, but my main trans is a Y8 for that reason (Z6 trans is just a backup that I've used while changing/trying things in the Y8). Only bad thing is the Y8's are getting expensive (relative, expensive for a used stock trans with no proof of condition). Every single Y8 trans I've bought for less than $100 has been complete and utter crap.

 

Great info, thank you!