This is my new ride. Its a 98 CF4 Accord SiR-T. Of course it has an F20B and the T2T4 transmission. However, as you can plainly see, it has the RED valve cover that is reserved for all the Type R Hondas instead of the blue one. The car is TOTALLY stock with ONLY 47K miles!!! Does anyone have any insight?

********EDIT-- 10 Mar 10--******** MORE PHOTOS ON PAGE TWO *******

 

I would guess honda ran out of Blue valve covers...

On another note I want to have sex with your car.

 

Maybe the previous owner changed it for their appeal. Its the first time anyones presented an F20B with a red valve cover, particularly on the car that comes with the motor in the first place.

Im not an envious person, but I wish i had that car (The uniqueness, the car's looks, it's motor). Take care of her you lucky dude

 

What's the redline?

 

I love it to. So much so that i am keeping it. It weighs 2860lbs with a 200 horse (for the time being) 2.0l engine. Its like a four door RSX Type S.

Not luck at all my man. I have been interested in this car for several years now. I had planned on getting another EG6 and doing a K swap. However, I promised myself a while ago that if i ever got the chance to get a CF4 that i would get one. Since it is completely stock I figured why would the previous owner only change the valve cover. I thought maybe there was a "Special" F20B that i didnt know about. I actually chose this car because of the uniqueness, the body style and the motor. I will be doing a fully detailed build thread in the coming months, so stay tuned.

Redline is at 7400 just like the H22A equipped Accord Euro R and Type R. Why that is I dont know since the F20B can rev much higher than the H22A. I am going to run an OBD1 ECU when I start modifying it anyway. The stock rod ratio is 1.65. When I am done with the bottom end it will be a 1.71 ratio. By the time I am done tuning it redline will be @ 9000 RPM.

 

thats a bad *** accord.

 

thanx man. i absolutely love this car.

if you think this is bad, wait till im done with it.... BIG PLANS!!!

remember the JACCS Accord Touring cars from back in the day?? Yeah that big.... without the livery of course.

thinkin of changing my name to CF4 Master and making my Red Top F20B my new avatar.... THIS CAR IS THE ****!!!

 

Very interesting. I have a 1.69 R/S 2.2 F20B myself. The key on it will turn in a few months, RRC intake manifold and all. My brother and I said your exact words. If we ever got to buy a CF4 Accord we'd jump on it. Looking forward to see what ace you'll pull on this one.

 

more pics!

 

thats nice man i havnt seen to many of those

 

no power steering on that bad boy? or is it electronic assist? What kind of gear ratios and final drive does the t2t4 trans have? Better than a m2f4?

 

there is a shop here in Tokyo called K-TECH that does 24.4mm compression height (hence the 1.71 ratio) 11.7 compression ratio pistons for FRM block Hondas. the piston is 88mm with a 18mm piston pin that is made for those that want to run the 88mm F20B cranks in the F20C. the engine is called "Square Spirits", because of the geometry of course. my plan for right now is to get an H22A block and bore it to 88mm and use their F20B crank and pistons for a 2.14 liter H/F hybrid. I am also doing the RRC manifold swap with RDX injectors. Much more to come on all of this in my build thread.

AN ACE IT WILL CERTAINLY BE!!!!

it has ugly *** wheels on it. it doesnt really look all that great right now. actually, the wheels are not the stock wheels that came on the car from the factory but they are from Honda.

EDIT*****I will take some more pix today after I wash it*****

which is EXACTLY the reason that i got it and will now be keeping it for good.

*****FOR THOSE THAT ARE INTERESTED, I ONLY PAID $2800 FOR IT AND IT RUNS LIKE NEW*****

######HERE IS AN ARTICLE ABOUT THE CAR######

http://asia.vtec.net/article/CF4/

 

CF4s have EPS (Electronic Power Steering I guess) from the factory. It is even COCKPIT ADJUSTABLE!!!

The T2T4 ratios are as follows:3.285-1.956-1.344-1.034-0.870 with a 4.266 final drive. Comparable to the M2F4.

 

Thats so ironic because mines is an 88mm bore. But you have the 1.71 to my 1.69. Lets put up our dynos when we get em. In mine i could care less about the total output, I want to have fun with it. Plus no one in my area has the same setup. With a B or H series at some point you run into someone (either reading or in a shop) with a near identical setup. Not with an F20B thats why I chose it.

 

well, i kinda care. this isnt going into my 2100lb EG6 so i need some decent power. i want 220 and 160. i will be using Jun cams, the RRC, Endyn head and the Bisi header (when it comes out) so i should be able to easily make 220 or more than that in reality. will be done with mine around the August time frame. we can compare dynos then.

 

So now I have another question. What is the max bore that the stock sleeves of the F20B can take? Is 87mm on those sleeves ok?

 

I wouldnt think so, seeing that the H22 started FRM'ing at 87mm and the F23 has the biggest bore of the old 4 cylinders at 86mm. If youre in Japan, can you get a hold of the service manual for that car? I know quite a few people looking for that motor's service limits

 

After thinking it over, I have now considered just getting an H22A long block and swapping it in while my F20B gets built. I dont want to sleeve it right now, thats why I wanted to know the max bore potential. If I could get it out to 87mm then that would be good for now. Then I could use Supertech pistons for the irons sleeves. Actually, I do have a link to a place that sells the service manual in english.

Are there any JDM or USDM H Series that have iron sleeves??

 

UNfortunately no they dont have any iron-sleeved H22s

 

looks like all that thinkin i was doing earlier has led me to reconsider. i will now only do bolt ons to this motor. i have decided to go ahead and do my K Swap in the CF4 instead. i'm not in a rush, so a bolt on F20B will have to suffice for now.

 

Very nice. Keep us updated

 

will do. next month i'm going to do an oil change and put her on the the dyno to get a baseline.

i have compiled the list of parts i will use as bolt-ons:

Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
Ferrea Beehive springs and retainers
Skunk2 intake manifold
Professional Products 68mm Venturi throttle body
AEM V2 intake
Kamikaze 4-1 header
Buddy Club Spec III catback
P28 or P30 Chipped ECU

i will dyno it again after i have installed all of these parts. hoping for 190-200 to the wheels.

who did your pistons for you? around a 26.5mm compression height, right?

******thinking of getting those same Eagle rods******

 

I dont know what the compression height was (gotta find the spec sheets) but CP did the pistons. I have a set of 12.5:1 85mm CP pistons made for the F20B with those same Eagle rods left over from an old project but never used them maybe i have the spec sheet for that one.

 

whats the difference between the old project and the new one?

 

Those 85mm pistons were for the stock bore for the old project. Now for the new project I have an 88mm bore (sleeved)