I'm about to purchase a Wilwood Dynapro 4-pot front brake kit for my EG Civic hatchback.

I want to stick with 15" wheels so I am going with the 11" rotor option. I also planned to purchase the Fastbrakes 11" rear rotor kit, using the OEM rear caliper.

For now the car is used for Time Trials and Autocross, but as things progress I plan to use the car for SCCA Club Racing, and if they ever bring Honda Challenge to the NW then Ill run it in H2.

Brakes are one of those things I only want to do once. I want to get something that I wont outgrow as my skills and race level progress.

So my question is, do you feel this will be a good long term set-up? Is it overkill? If you think I should go a different route please state your recommendations, keeping in mind I intend to run a 15" wheel.

As it sits, I have the std. brake upgrades, GSR front and rear w/ 4040 prop valve and 15/16" MC.

Thanks!

 

You might want to check into the cost of rotor replacement. Based on that alone, I would consider the Spoon calipers.

 

Thanks Wai.

Anybody else?

 

If you can justify using a larger wheel, you can get the 12.2 Wilwood kit. I have this on my car and the rotors are $25 each to replace. The only down side is that I am running 17 inch wheels for the track. This is OK for me because NT01s are cheap in 205/40/17, and I have some relatively light Konig Kolors.

I have 16 inch wheels for the street due to the high cost and low amount of size options for R comps in 16.

 

A friend and I are in the process of putting together a 11.75" kit. We are looking to do this because of the high cost of the fast brakes kit. Not sure how soon you are looking to buy a kit but if your a month or two out we may have our setup done. I understand not wanting to have to do your brakes again, so this could be an option in the future.

 

I run the 12.xx" rotor with the wilwood 6piston caliper under a 15" wheel I think I just got everything right...

Not 100% sure yet though.. I should know better after tmrw.

 

I ran a Wilwood BBK on my ITR and I felt that they provided consistant braking that was on par with many other big $$ kit's. Replacement rotors are actually pretty cheap.

 

the dyna light wont fit under a 15 on a 12" it barely rubs height wise. but i know super lights would fit on the right wheel

 

Thanks for your input. My Civic had 17" wheels on it when I bought it and I hated it. I think the 11.xx" rotor/4-pot caliper will be plenty of brake for my little hatchback. I checked out Fastbrakes and noticed the slotted/dimpled replacement rotors are $230 a pair, however the blank replacement rotor is only $62 a pair.

I'd be interested in the details. Let me know what you're planning.

I'd be very interested in more info, you'd be the first one Ive heard about that made that setup clear a 15" wheel.

You've got PM!

 

$62 a pair is not bad at all. For some reason I thought they were all floating rotors and cost a grip to replace.

 

Atmosfear, I used the 15" Wilwood BBK from Fast Brakes.

So far, I am happy with the braking power they provide. I used them only in auto-x however.

My opinion to you would be to upgrade to the USDM ITR 1" BB/MC. You are using a bigger rotor/brake set-up, not to mention a 4 piston caliper.

Also, in the case of you being worried about the rotors. When you speak to Brian at Fastbrakes, he'll tell you those rotors are actually Volkswagen Corrado/Honda Prelude (early gen. model) rotors. They should not cost that much to replace at all.

Best of luck

 

You dont need to make the rear discs any bigger. Whats the point, those things dont even get hot enough as it is. If you want more braking done fron the rear just to balance out your brake bias, just ditch the prop valve and save yourself some $$$ and the additional weight and moment of inertia the bigger rear kit would add.

As for the fronts, wilwood stuff is decent in performance and cheap enough to fit the needs of club racers. Just make sure you choose a good pad manufacturer like Ferodo, Performance Friction, Pagid, Raybestos, or Carbone Lorraine...not some JDM crap!

 

X2. You'll most likely have rear lockup issues if you size up the rears.

Do you have any track experience? Learning how to drive/race with the car setup like a competitive racecar will make things interesting at best, and frustrating/dangerous at worst. Learning how to brake properly on stockish stuff (and yes, learning what brake fade feels like) will benefit you in the future. If you do have experience, you will already know this, and can ignore this comment

 

It wont fit with off the shelf parts, but with some machine work to a hat they offer, and a 25mm spacer they work great.


IF some one made a GOOD 2 peace 11.1" rotor (ala ITR/legend GS) i probably would have went with a spoon caliper and that.

But we've went that route with a legend GS caliper and cracked rotors quickly (with the stoptech 2 peace rotor and the fastbrakes kit FB was better though).

This setup seems to be holding up really long.

If i had the money ($2500) i'd just go with the AP racing kit..

EDIT: to clarify something.

The reason i would go with the other options, is because they are bolt on/no modification needed.

This kit i have is working GREAT. It was just a PITA to get it together.

 

so a quick question: my wilwood lines are shot, and i have a set of goodridge stainless lines that are OEM replacement spec- anyway i can make some sort adapter to get them to fit?

 

Jimmy, details on the calipers and rotors?

 

here is the part number




It's a "dynopro" caliper, fairly new, released April 1 of 2009.

the rotor is a 11.75" GT rotor which is 23mm IIRC.

The hat is a 4x100 with a small hub bore and .8x offset. I had is machined down .07" IIRC to get the caliper to mount directly to the spindle, in turn moving the rotor caliper as far in board as possible. Not a lot of companies do this (most rotor hats have very little offset), not sure why, but that is part of the reason it is a PITA to fit large disc/calipers under wheels.

The superlight 6-pot. SL6R "slim caliper" would fit even better under the wheel (ie more clearance) because it is .3" shorter then this caliper. The 'ends' or top and bottom of the caliper are what come super close to the wheel.


Although my clearance is rather large compared to some pro cars. The Bimmerworld World Challenge E90s have barely ANY wheel to caliper clearance, like a business card would be hard to fit between the two. The same goes for the Tri-point Mazda6s.

 

looking good^^^

 

sent u a PM regarding my experience.

 

Ooo ya I should probably note that the other person who has this setup found it to be an on off switch no modulation.

I thought the pedal was too long with the 15/16MC so now run a 1", I only have one weekend on it, but I think its going to be a great setup.

I also run it with a adjustable prop valve, not the stock setup.

 

I'll be running the same front calipers with a 10.75" solid .38" rotor (autocross specific) with ITR rear calipers and the same rotors turned down to 10.25" as well as a prop valve. I wonder how mine will feel with a single 5/8" unboosted MC?

What front pad did you go with?

 

Can't tell ya how the single 5/8 unboosted MC will be, i'd think you have a long pedal, but don't know...


I went with Cobalt Friction XR2 pads, might drop down to XR3... I am not sure.


It has been almost 2 years since i ran w2w and was really pushed in competition, so i was SUPER rusty... I don't want to make any drastic changes because i just don't have the feel of the car yet.

 

I had this vague notion to switch from XR3s to XR2s at the end of last year, but then at VIR this year thought the XR3s were totally fine and definitely enough pad for me. Modulation issues, or what?

 

grip was extremely poor this weekend, first race of the year DOWN POUR all day friday, and since i've had fade issues (not with the cobalts) i just don't have confidence in the brakes yet.

But yes the xr2 are a little more grippy then the xr3, and i think i might be better with a pad that i can "stand on" a little more. But maybe the xr2 will work fine once i get used to it.

Not making a change until after the next event, though.

 

Any time I've disabled or removed the booster from my OEM M/C, I've always seen the pedal get extremely short (but obviously very hard). I am going on the notion that the smaller bore will reduce the effort at the pedal, and still preserve a reasonable length pedal. When I 1st put on a FastBrakes big brake kit some years ago (Wilwood Superlite 4 piston with 11.75" 2 piece rotors), I was instantly looking for ways to reduce the booster assist. I tried a restrictor in the vacuum line, and a couple other things. I eventually gave up, as I was getting used to the sensitive pedal.

We'll see how this new setup pans out. It was originally supposed to be a dual master setup with a balance bar, but there's no way I can make the kit I have here fit with my supercharger.