IACV Sputtering/ bog down issue
About 2 mths ago i had issues with my car sputtering while driving or bogging down. It went on for a little while and i changed plugs and did a tune up in hopes of fixing the issue. That did not fix the issue. Then the car would not start. Sometimes it would magically start, but 99% off the time it would not.
I took the car to honda because my 97 del sol is still under the extended emissions warranty. The issues was not related though, they said it was the IACV but wanted $600. I was suggested to hold the gas while starting the car and that did help start it, but the bogging issue was still there. The idle would also move up and down a few mm but no more than an inch at stop lights. I had a mechanic come by and clean the IACV with brake cleaner and reinstalled it. The car then started and worked fine for a while. The past 2 wks i did not drive the car due to snow. But now the sputtering/ bog issue has returned no matter at idle or acceleration during any gear. The car still starts for now at least. I have looked regarding IACV issues and it says that it wouldnt affect the car during acceleration.
I took the car to honda because my 97 del sol is still under the extended emissions warranty. The issues was not related though, they said it was the IACV but wanted $600. I was suggested to hold the gas while starting the car and that did help start it, but the bogging issue was still there. The idle would also move up and down a few mm but no more than an inch at stop lights. I had a mechanic come by and clean the IACV with brake cleaner and reinstalled it. The car then started and worked fine for a while. The past 2 wks i did not drive the car due to snow. But now the sputtering/ bog issue has returned no matter at idle or acceleration during any gear. The car still starts for now at least. I have looked regarding IACV issues and it says that it wouldnt affect the car during acceleration.
The IACV would only affect starting, idle and occasionally low RPM driving. Replace the fuel filter if it is old and check your spark at all four wires. Either buy a spark tester or:
Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.
You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester.
Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.
You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester.
I will do those tests you mentioned. I purchased pre gapped plugs directly from honda, as well i have a new manifold and injectors compliments of a gentleman at honda who owed a del sol as well at the same time i paid for a valve adjustment.
I assume the fuel filter is not related to the oil filter that you change with the oil?
lol sweet name
I assume the fuel filter is not related to the oil filter that you change with the oil?
lol sweet name
No, the oil filter is mounted on the engine block under the intake manifold, while the fuel filter is a black canister usually found attached to the firewall behind the throttle body. You can follow the fuel line from the fuel rail, it leads to the filter.
I just had the fuel filter changed and a fuel induction. So far the car seems to be performing real well with no issues. It seems to sound better as well. Overall it feels better after driving about 150 miles.
I still want to do the spark test just to verify, how would i go about disabling the fuel injectors? Do i still need to disable them if i get the kit?
I still want to do the spark test just to verify, how would i go about disabling the fuel injectors? Do i still need to disable them if i get the kit?
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