I have a friend that would give me $1900 and his rota circuit 10s for my Mugen mf10s. Would you do it? His circuit 10s are in pretty good shape and and i bought my mf10s for $2000 so i was thinking about just doing it and rocking the c10s. An extra $1900 bucks cash right now would be nice!!! But tell me what you would do? If anyone has the c10s how do they ride or feel and tell me what you think about them, because i actually like the way they look!!!

 

you will have the same mugen look with an extra $1900.

with that you can sell those rotas if you wanted and have like 2300 at the least and can add minimal to none on top and get a nice set of whatever else want.

i say do it. $1900 doesnt come along everyday plus a set of wheels to replace yours so you dont go rolling around on nothing.

ask yourself...does it feel like you have used your wheels for $2000 dollars?

 

had the c10s they ride great... i would consider making the deal and having the cash...

 

agree with everyone else. that's a fair trade and id do it if it were me

 

If your gonna use the money to buy another set of wheels dont do it. IMO mf10's are one of the nicest set of wheels for 2k. If you need money do it for shure.

 

DO it.

 

Do it, Do it. Johnny red neat. Do it, Do it.

 

For $1,900, I'd put my own car on blocks for a week.

 

Doesn't king still have MF10 sets in stock for not much more than that? Depending on the tires you'd be giving away compared to the ones receiving I would do it. You could turn around and buy a set of used MF10's for $1800ish anyway.

Either way I'm getting to the age where I really can't justify "baller" wheels anymore.

 

Likewise! Infact, I am having a hard time justifying any parts purchases at all!

 

They were $2300, not including centercaps/valve stems.

That's a good trade, but I'd never but Rotas on my R..

 

I don't really see why not. Don't get me wrong, bronze MF10's are my favorite wheel and would love to have them on either one of my R's but you're paying close to a 2k difference for a few ounces and a brand name. I think if I could get a set for closer to $1500 then I would justify it, but breaking the 2k barrier is just too much to stomach for a virtually non-functional part. But on the plus side, they retain value like a son of a b.

 

The weight difference is pretty tangible, especially at the outer ring. I think both the MF10s and MF8s in 16x7 weigh in at 11 pounds. The equivatent Rota is 15 pounds IIRC.

 

Not busting chops here, but how couldn't you make this decision on your own? I guess i find it funny that people need support in making decisions they think will effect how others perceive them or their car. It is your ride bro, do what you want to. We'll still be your friend if you don't have bling.

 

do it man!!!!!

 

I'd say thats a HUGE diff.

 

Yeah to be honest I didn't know the difference was that bad, I was guessing 2lbs at max. That's what I get for assuming.

 

It's hard but do it!! I did the same with my Volk TE37 in bronze, someone offer me $1700 and was hard for me get rid of them but $1700 now is fantastic and I still have the OEM wheels I throw them quickly at my R and all was good.

Do it man!!

 

I'd do it. $1900 can go a long way in car modification terms

 

I was mistaken, the Rotas are even heavier. 17 lbs for a C10 in 16x7. 15.5 lbs for a C8 in 16x7. That is a lot.

 

Wheels are the one thing that can make or break your car's looks and--to some degree--performance. Honestly, I'd run OEM wheels way before I ever bolted a set of cast knock-offs on any thing that I own.

If you need the money, do the trade then put the rotas on craigslist or ebay or something and ride around on OEM wheels for a little while. Heck, you could sell both and get a nice set of Enkeis and still come out with money in the bank.

But nothing will ever be Mugen MF10's, so just make sure you won't have seller's remorse.

And aren't you the one who dropped like $6K+ on your motor build on a 10 year old car that wasn't paid off yet? Then wanted to trade shells? Then claimed they paid the title off because money wasn't an issue?

 

dont forget thats PER WHEEL too....

 

WHOA! Thats even MOAR HUGE!!

11lbs vs 17ibs. 6lbs per wheel?

That will definately be felt by the driver. The car will definately be slower, sluggish, less responsive, brake times increase. Not to mention it is adding the worst kind of weight possible, unsprung weight.

OP unless you just plain need the $$. Do NOT do this trade if you care about the performance of your car.

 

I'm considering selling my 16x7 +43 MF8s (sorry, they are 4x100). I would drop to a 15" wheel to minimize the weight penalty. The MF8s ran well at Expo 9.

 

GTFO!

They shold have run well, they weigh 12lbs. Unless you are going to the smaller 15" MF10L that weighs a dreamy 10.5lbs. Why switch? 12lbs is still lighter than most 15s.