First of all I searched already but cant find anything that helped.

Can anyone list out the parts needed for a rebuild. I am burning some oil and the engine smokes at high RPM's, and getting some missfires in the cylinders. Just want to do a rebuild. Probably will do it myself. Just need a list of "Parts Needed" and "Recommend" or good performance upgrade. I will get OEM parts only for reliability.

I ultimately want a realiable strong daily driver. I will have Cams I/M Headers, intake and exhaust. I already have a JDM type R header and SK2 stage 1 tuner cams and WS2 exhaust but looking to get SK2 I/M during the build.

I want to get type R pistons and rings but because i live in california i wanted to know if they will pass smog?

If you have any expierience with this (i know alot has) please chime in and give your .02 cents. Please note that i live in California and this needs to be smog legal parts (I know the Headers arent but have another set to swap out just in case).

Thanks ahead of time!

 

if it's going in the same type of car, like dc2 to dc2 i thought jdm engines were still legal. first, you'll be time and money ahead just buying a jdm type r engine. if you attempt a rebuild and it's kind of worrisome by the sound of your post your best bet is a rebuild search.

as for why i'm worried? inexperience comes across in your post. inexperience is expensive since you're bound to make mistakes that will later be corrected. even the choice of machine shops plays a big part.

all said and done you could not build a motor for the price you could sell your existing engine for + extra cash to buy the ITR. a very experienced guy with great hook ups has a shot at doing so but unless you are determined to rebuild and learn, jdm engines are the easy way to play.

 

My 2001 Integra GSR just started doing the same thing, with only 58k miles...hope I don't need to do a rebuild and that it's just a simple gasket change....

 

You mean to tell me it's gonna cost him at least $3000 dollars to rebuild his engine with ITR pistons? If he can rebuild the engine himself and save labor cost The MOST it should cost him is $1,000 and that's still to high IMO. I rebuilt my Type R motor with LS crank, CTR pistions and after headgasket, new IM gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, bearings, lube, grease and 2 oil changes it cost me $725. I dynoed 197 to the wheels, I have put 30k miles on this motor since 2008 when I rebuilt it, no smoke, compression is perfect.

Luder916 - I live in Dallas, Texas. To my knowledge changing to ITR piston's in your GSR shouldn't cause you to fail smog as long as you have a catalytic converter, but I Cali maybe different from Texas.

 

I really want the expierience more then anything. Dont really care about the cost or whatnot. the only reason i dont want to go JDM is because the motor is bar'd in my car and i really dont want to go that route anymore. Also my motor/tranny has matching vin's so i want to keep it like that. When my tranny goes out on me i will attempt a rebuild on that also. This is just a car to learn from/hobby. I value the knowledge more then anything else (and the simple fact of not getting raped by mechanic's).

 

Thanks for the info! I do have a cat conv. on there and plan to keep it smog legal. Is all the parts you mentioned all that is needed in the rebuild kit? I am looking to get one ASAP. Its good to hear from someone who has gone through it!

 

1.head gasket
2.water pump
3.timing belt
4.all head and block bearings and seals
5.piston rings
6.appropriate tools( torque wrench)
7.if is the first time use a manual and fallow instructions

 

well my gsr(140,000+ miles) was doing the same thing burning oil , smoking at high rpms mostly during vtec didnt see much smoke below 5000 rpms. i was always adding a quart of oil like every other week. i long suspected it was worn rings, finally did a leak down check and my fears were confirmed. im in the process of getting it rebuild right now with itr pistons and going with a BC spec3+ cam, i heard that it will pass smog, i will find out for myself this week or next week.

- a good site for a rebuild kit is www.nopi.com there kits are made by TopLine
they also make itr pistons.

- i however didnt use there piston i got mine from www.inlinefour.com (81.5mm oversize)

 

Thanks, I will order those parts ASAP! Exactly what i was looking for!

 

Let me know if it passes! I want to go a simular route and would like to know if it will pass smog.

 

read his whole post. A: he doesn't have the experience and B: he wants a full rebuild not a piston change

 

head gaskets almost never fail on a gsr. they are MLS or layered steel. when one does "fail" its often a warped deck or warped head

 

damm i didnt knoe that about the head gaskets.my vtec selnoid went out two weeks ago and was dripping oil from what seemed to be the head but it wasnt and i almost rplaced lol

 

hey i live in kali.. i built my 98 gsr with os jdm type R piston with a built head for high compression. i pass smog with flying colors

 

You seem very knowledgable, did some research on rebuild and found one of your posting on parts to get or recommend. maybe i will go that route. looking to get some parts in place of oem i.e. acl bearings and arp studs. i know that you dont have to change everything out but when the engine is apart i want to change everything i can so that i know the parts are new and hopefully the engine will last me for another 150K until the next rebuild.

 

A. I read the whole post.

B. I didn't do like you and assumed he had no experience at all. We all have to start somewhere.

C. You sounded like an ******* telling him to go get a JDM engine when everybody and their mommas know they are illegal in California now.

It's not rocket science re-building an engine. He didn't ask about selling his old motor to get a new one. He asked for some guidance in rebuilding his motor, looks to me my friend that you didn't read ****.

Luder916 - I got my pistons and headgasket from inlinefour.com, bearings from Honda, and a timing belt from O'reilly's. Like jdm_boy.1 said.. The torque wrench and manual are just as important as everything else.

 

thats VERY GOOD INFO to know and i will go that route.

 

Thanks for the mode of confidence i will check out inlinefour.com.

 

I can see his point about the cost factor. If you are going to replace EVERYTHING then yes it's gonna get costly. This website wouldn't exist if we all just went and bought new motors. Show cars, race cars, daily drivers, we all love these cars and the only way your gonna learn anything about 'em is if you tear it down and put it back together again. Good luck on the rebuild.

 

Yes i am looking to replace everything and be done with it for hopefully 150K. I want the piece of mind that everything is good. I have est. the rebuild will cost me about 2.5K and thats not a problem.

As of right now i am going to get acl bearings, arp studs and an oem gaskets all around with jdm type r pistions. I will take the block and head to a machine shop to see if they sit right, if not then have them get it right, after get the block hot tanked, honed and bored if neccessary.

I heard about micropolish the crank or something of the matter, is it wise to do that?

I know about JDM engines but they arent legal in cali and i dont want to run into hassle problems with cops here. Weather it be JDM engines or USDM engines sooner or later they will need a rebuild so i would just keep mine.

My ultimate goal is to have a reliable daily drive that will pass smog and can handle a little power if i decide to got the FI route.

ALL Comments and advice are welcome!

 

If you micro polish the crank, I would just make sure you have a reputable place do it, that has done it on a Honda crank.

From reading countless threads on this site, there are a few things I picked up.

1. Honda cranks need to be polished counter clockwise to avoid fish scaling.

2. ACL bearings are not made in different sizes. Honda bearings are color coded so you get the right bearing size for your crank. If you do micro polish the crank the popular opinion is with ACL bearings you have clearance and tolerance issues.

3. You don't necessarily need for it to be polished if it's a daily street driven car. If the shop doing the polishing does not do it properly, it can cause the crank to have to be reground and balanced, which means it has to be Nitride coated and that's costs money.

I didn't micro polish mine. I did have a machine shop check if it was still straight and balanced. It cost me 30 dollars.

 

since our rebuilds are so similar, with the same concerns after its done(smog)

-i actually went with nopi's Topline for the complete gasket set , basically gaskets are gaskets

- i went with honda's bearings kit, u wont know the correct size til after the machine shop is done with the block & head work ... like what vegas said not a good idea to go with acl or any other aftermarket company because of that fact...stick with honda for bearings

-i would get the block bored atleast .010 over(.25mm) to get a fresh wall, i went .020 over (.5mm)on my block got inlinefour's 81.5mm itr pistons , 82mm headgasket(honda only makes a 81.25mm oversize h.gasket and Topline only makes 81mm) and there thermal IM gasket just like hondata's but for half the price.

- also would consider getting ur block fully balanced will cost a lil extra but its well worth it from what i hear. maybe upgrade ur strings/retainers to atleast itr specs, i went with blox's spring/retainer kit on mine.

 

ARP headstuds for sure

Valve seals, new valves - you can do this yourself with a valve spring compressor rented from advance auto / autozone

just get your block honed and get standard size pistons.

bearings wise, plastigauge your clearances and see if they're within specs, then according to the clearances you got determine which bearings you need

make sure you clock your rings the right way and gap them.

I spent about $200 to rebuild a D-series, just look around for deals

 

yeah i did mine last year i had the same problem but i upgraded everything cause i could and make sure you get all oem gaskets if not you may have some gasket problems

 

i dont think he needs hardware from ARP weather it be head studs or rod bolts. u need ARP fastners if ur going: force induction , nos , or a agressive NA build. it would be a waste of money... ARP not needed for a mild build that will hopefully be cali smog legal. just a new set of honda bolts should be fine for his rebuild.