Pulled Alarm System... Cause for no Start?
Hey Guys,
I recently recbuilt the engine in my 90 CRX si, and during the process I pulled an old Hofco III alarm system that the remote was broken for. When I tried starting the car, the engine turns over and I get lights and power all around, except no spark and I never saw any fuel on the spark plugs so I am assuming the injectors were not firing because there is fuel at the filter... CEL is a solid light, using multiple ECUs, and the Main Relay makes a buzzing sound... I have no idea how alarm systems work, I just paid close attention to what I was pulling, and it seemed fairly simple (apparently not since I jacked something up). The alarm system was not soldered into anything, it was simply crimped into wires. Could I possibly have missed something that is causinig this issue? Is this an alarm system issue? Please help me out fellas. I left for Spain a month ago, so I took it to the shop the day I left, and they have looked at it here and there but no dice so far.... Here is a picture of what I pulled out...
I recently recbuilt the engine in my 90 CRX si, and during the process I pulled an old Hofco III alarm system that the remote was broken for. When I tried starting the car, the engine turns over and I get lights and power all around, except no spark and I never saw any fuel on the spark plugs so I am assuming the injectors were not firing because there is fuel at the filter... CEL is a solid light, using multiple ECUs, and the Main Relay makes a buzzing sound... I have no idea how alarm systems work, I just paid close attention to what I was pulling, and it seemed fairly simple (apparently not since I jacked something up). The alarm system was not soldered into anything, it was simply crimped into wires. Could I possibly have missed something that is causinig this issue? Is this an alarm system issue? Please help me out fellas. I left for Spain a month ago, so I took it to the shop the day I left, and they have looked at it here and there but no dice so far.... Here is a picture of what I pulled out...
The problem is probably at the PGM-FI Main Relay, it should not buzz.
The problem with the type of connector used, [AMP] to install the alarm is they can cut through all the strands in a wire they are crimped onto and when you remove them there is no longer a connection.
I would start by going back to those connection points and checking them, pull the wire from either side of "crimp" to see if it will pull apart, I would even go to the point of stripping insulation 1/4" on either side of "crimp" and inspecting the wire strands themselves, there may be only 1 or 2 strands that are not cut, a little dab of solder can fix that, I have made that repair more then a few times.
Back to the PGM-FI Main Relay, a relay that "buzzes" is almost always a relay with a bad ground.
As you may or may not know the PGM-FI Main Relay is actually two relays, it contains the fuel injection relay, it supplies the injectors, [and a few other things] with 12V+ it is controlled by the ign. switch that supplies the relays coil with 12V+, [ black/yellow hot in run and start] the other side of relays coil is grounded to cars chassis, the 2nd relay is the fuel pump relay, it supplies the fuel pump with 12V+, it is controlled by the injector relay that supplies the fuel pump relays coil with 12V+, [one of the "other things"] the other side of fuel pump relays coil gets a ground from the ECU/ECM.
If the injector relay is not working properly, the fuel pump relay can not work properly, so the first thing I would check is the PGM-FI Relay itself...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html or just replace it with a new or known working one.
If it is not the relay itself you need to check the wiring to the relay, starting with the ground for the injector relay, [the only black lead going to the PGM-FI Main Relay]. 94
PS, you said, "no spark" the PGM-FI Main Relay has nothing to do with ign. spark, so if you actually do not have spark, it is a different problem although it can be related to no or poor ign, power as both the distributor assembly and the PGM-FI Main Relay need ign. power, [hot in run and start] you can test for this at the black/yellow leads at the distributor assembly and the PGM-FI Main Relay.
The problem with the type of connector used, [AMP] to install the alarm is they can cut through all the strands in a wire they are crimped onto and when you remove them there is no longer a connection.
I would start by going back to those connection points and checking them, pull the wire from either side of "crimp" to see if it will pull apart, I would even go to the point of stripping insulation 1/4" on either side of "crimp" and inspecting the wire strands themselves, there may be only 1 or 2 strands that are not cut, a little dab of solder can fix that, I have made that repair more then a few times.
Back to the PGM-FI Main Relay, a relay that "buzzes" is almost always a relay with a bad ground.
As you may or may not know the PGM-FI Main Relay is actually two relays, it contains the fuel injection relay, it supplies the injectors, [and a few other things] with 12V+ it is controlled by the ign. switch that supplies the relays coil with 12V+, [ black/yellow hot in run and start] the other side of relays coil is grounded to cars chassis, the 2nd relay is the fuel pump relay, it supplies the fuel pump with 12V+, it is controlled by the injector relay that supplies the fuel pump relays coil with 12V+, [one of the "other things"] the other side of fuel pump relays coil gets a ground from the ECU/ECM.
If the injector relay is not working properly, the fuel pump relay can not work properly, so the first thing I would check is the PGM-FI Relay itself...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html or just replace it with a new or known working one.
If it is not the relay itself you need to check the wiring to the relay, starting with the ground for the injector relay, [the only black lead going to the PGM-FI Main Relay]. 94
PS, you said, "no spark" the PGM-FI Main Relay has nothing to do with ign. spark, so if you actually do not have spark, it is a different problem although it can be related to no or poor ign, power as both the distributor assembly and the PGM-FI Main Relay need ign. power, [hot in run and start] you can test for this at the black/yellow leads at the distributor assembly and the PGM-FI Main Relay.
Last edited by fcm; Feb 14, 2010 at 09:38 AM. Reason: itchy trigger finger
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Also make sure you put the ground back on the thermostate housing too. Common problem when doing swaps.
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