TECH: 5th Gen H&R Sport - KYB AGX Install
Hey the new springs and shocks are on and im in the process of writing up the TECH install and scanning over the pictures from the cam it will be posted later this afternoon.
5th Gen Accord Lowering Spring and Performance Strut Install Guide
We used KYB AGX, and H&R Stage 2 Springs.
Have car on level surface, Put the ebrake on and put it in gear jack up and support with jackstands all four sides and the proper jacking locations (I am not responsible if you unevenly balance the car and it falls on you.) Remove Wheels, err now lets get too it the fronts are semi more involved than the rears given the rear has 3 bolts and the front has 7 so start where ever you want too.
Remove front shock assemblies
1. Remove front shock assembly hardware
Three upper nuts 14mm (just loosen for now)
Two brake line bolts 12mm (remove)
One upper fork bolt (behind) 14mm (remove)
One lower control arm fork mount bolt 17mm (remove)
2. Slide lower fork down off of the shock
Careful not to damage CV boots
May require a friend to step on the wheel studs to free the fork
Have friend remove upper nuts while you keep the shock assembly
from falling
Remove rear shock assemblies
1. Remove lower control arm mount bolt 17mm
2. Shake the U joint off of the bushing
3. Loosen two top nuts 14mm
You have to remove three interior panels
Fold down seat
Remove upper center plastic piece 4 clips (careful I cracked this one)
Two side pieced remove with two push clips and two metal clips
4. Definitely need someone to step on the wheel studs to finagle the
assembly out ( Helps alot)
5. Takes a little work, be careful and take you time – it will come out
without a fuss
R&R shock assembly (non-ghetto style)
1. Compress spring (evenly – use two compressors or one full circular
compressor that’s mounted to a wall or LARGE table.)
2. Loosen top nut
3. Remove upper pillow mount
4. Replace stock washer, spacer, and shock collar (you don’t have too)
· New hardware is in proper order on Koni’s / KYB AGX’s
· Pay attention to bushing orientation ( DO NOT get the washers
upside down or in the wrong order)
5. Enlarge hole in dust cover (or use mine)
6. Enlarge hole in the bump stop also cut bump stop in half.(not
necessary and a pain in the *** to boot)
7. Put everything back together in the proper order
8. FRONT ONLY – using a rubber hammer remove the brake line
bracket by pounding it down off the bottom of the shock. Do not
bend the tabs. If you don’t have a rubber or poly hammer use a
normal hammer and piece of wood or whatnot to buffer. ALSO when
putting the for back on there is a little tab that fits in the back of the
fork where it separates make sure this is aligned properly, in the
pictures I should how I used a jack and pressed up the rotor to help
with this process.
Put your wheels back on and make sure to tighten your lugs down lower the car down one side at a time not corner SIDE. Check everything out make sure your strut tower nuts are tight go for a drive come back tighten everything and for the first few hours of driving listen to your car, if something is loose you will hear it.
Sabastian’s Install Pictures Included.
http://community.webshots.com/album/49417644RSdBFt
More Pictures of the rear end to come i was uploading pics and the camcorder died on me so its charging, i have a video of the whole install if anyone wants it IM me on AIM and ill send it too you, it will also be shared on kazaa as Sabastian KYB Install, sorry i dont have anywhere to host it myself.
Check out http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for more diagrams and such
Edit: Camara should be charged in about 30mins check back then for rest of the pics.
[Modified by Sabastian, 4:33 PM 9/6/2002]
We used KYB AGX, and H&R Stage 2 Springs.
Have car on level surface, Put the ebrake on and put it in gear jack up and support with jackstands all four sides and the proper jacking locations (I am not responsible if you unevenly balance the car and it falls on you.) Remove Wheels, err now lets get too it the fronts are semi more involved than the rears given the rear has 3 bolts and the front has 7 so start where ever you want too.
Remove front shock assemblies
1. Remove front shock assembly hardware
Three upper nuts 14mm (just loosen for now)
Two brake line bolts 12mm (remove)
One upper fork bolt (behind) 14mm (remove)
One lower control arm fork mount bolt 17mm (remove)
2. Slide lower fork down off of the shock
Careful not to damage CV boots
May require a friend to step on the wheel studs to free the fork
Have friend remove upper nuts while you keep the shock assembly
from falling
Remove rear shock assemblies
1. Remove lower control arm mount bolt 17mm
2. Shake the U joint off of the bushing
3. Loosen two top nuts 14mm
You have to remove three interior panels
Fold down seat
Remove upper center plastic piece 4 clips (careful I cracked this one)
Two side pieced remove with two push clips and two metal clips
4. Definitely need someone to step on the wheel studs to finagle the
assembly out ( Helps alot)
5. Takes a little work, be careful and take you time – it will come out
without a fuss
R&R shock assembly (non-ghetto style)
1. Compress spring (evenly – use two compressors or one full circular
compressor that’s mounted to a wall or LARGE table.)
2. Loosen top nut
3. Remove upper pillow mount
4. Replace stock washer, spacer, and shock collar (you don’t have too)
· New hardware is in proper order on Koni’s / KYB AGX’s
· Pay attention to bushing orientation ( DO NOT get the washers
upside down or in the wrong order)
5. Enlarge hole in dust cover (or use mine)
6. Enlarge hole in the bump stop also cut bump stop in half.(not
necessary and a pain in the *** to boot)
7. Put everything back together in the proper order
8. FRONT ONLY – using a rubber hammer remove the brake line
bracket by pounding it down off the bottom of the shock. Do not
bend the tabs. If you don’t have a rubber or poly hammer use a
normal hammer and piece of wood or whatnot to buffer. ALSO when
putting the for back on there is a little tab that fits in the back of the
fork where it separates make sure this is aligned properly, in the
pictures I should how I used a jack and pressed up the rotor to help
with this process.
Put your wheels back on and make sure to tighten your lugs down lower the car down one side at a time not corner SIDE. Check everything out make sure your strut tower nuts are tight go for a drive come back tighten everything and for the first few hours of driving listen to your car, if something is loose you will hear it.
Sabastian’s Install Pictures Included.
http://community.webshots.com/album/49417644RSdBFt
More Pictures of the rear end to come i was uploading pics and the camcorder died on me so its charging, i have a video of the whole install if anyone wants it IM me on AIM and ill send it too you, it will also be shared on kazaa as Sabastian KYB Install, sorry i dont have anywhere to host it myself.
Check out http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for more diagrams and such
Edit: Camara should be charged in about 30mins check back then for rest of the pics.
[Modified by Sabastian, 4:33 PM 9/6/2002]
Trending Topics
Are you going to get an alignment done? If you do, would you please post the results from the alignment. I plan on going with the H&R Sports also and would like to know ahead of time how much correction i will need. Thanks.
OH also we weighed the stock componets vs the kyb-hr's i saved 30lbs total.
yes ill be getting an alignment and ill scan the results.
yes ill be getting an alignment and ill scan the results.
2 degrees of negative camber on a 1.75inch drop? what camber kit would be good for this spring/strut combo? ive heard that camber kits hit the inner fender when correcting anything more than 1.75 degrees of camber.. some have said to remove the fender liner and hit the area thats rubbing with a sledge hammer.. thats just ghetto....
I used to have a Sprint camber kit, and my front UCAs hit the body of the car, and tore out the ball joint... I went with the Ingalls camber kit after that fiasco, and I continue to use it today....
u said you need to reuse the brake line mounts on the front...looking at my KYB shocks on my prelude they had them on the shock already....strange
u said you need to reuse the brake line mounts on the front...looking at my KYB shocks on my prelude they had them on the shock already....strange
u said you need to reuse the brake line mounts on the front...looking at my KYB shocks on my prelude they had them on the shock already....strange
yeh they are already on the KYB's greensleeper wrote some of the install so that was prolly that part, he used koni's
yeh they are already on the KYB's greensleeper wrote some of the install so that was prolly that part, he used koni's
edit: this is for the noob who three months from now will have to be told to use the search button...
[Modified by greensleeper, 8:22 AM 9/7/2002]
theres hella HELLA more pix comming but my idoit friend took my damn camcorder...
ive got the rear install pix and afterwards lowered and washed
pix they should be here later this afternoon, sorry about the wait.
EDIT: oh and the ride ish freaken SWEET, we tested the advantage in handleing yesterday and its much improved, my buddies Si cant maintain the same speeds on sharper turns, on/off ramps ect. i still have the sway bar and tires to get.
[Modified by Sabastian, 12:35 PM 9/7/2002]
ive got the rear install pix and afterwards lowered and washed
pix they should be here later this afternoon, sorry about the wait.EDIT: oh and the ride ish freaken SWEET, we tested the advantage in handleing yesterday and its much improved, my buddies Si cant maintain the same speeds on sharper turns, on/off ramps ect. i still have the sway bar and tires to get.
[Modified by Sabastian, 12:35 PM 9/7/2002]
use two tires on grass when you remove the stock spring/struts w/o a compressor. one tire for the base of the strut (wrapped in towels of course), and another tire for the front, you stand on the back side tire and undo the strut nut, when it shoots, it should push the front tire a bit.
You like my driveway everyone for this is where this took place. hehehe
anyway i can vouche for the ride and handeling it is awesome. He does take my cousins Si on the corners and on-ramps. All in all very worth the money.
anyway i can vouche for the ride and handeling it is awesome. He does take my cousins Si on the corners and on-ramps. All in all very worth the money.
You like my driveway everyone for this is where this took place. hehehe
anyway i can vouche for the ride and handeling it is awesome. He does take my cousins Si on the corners and on-ramps. All in all very worth the money.
anyway i can vouche for the ride and handeling it is awesome. He does take my cousins Si on the corners and on-ramps. All in all very worth the money.
hey i can take him in a straight line too faaauker
More pictures Added, will have the last of the pics from the rear install tommorow cuz **** for brains decided to tape over the rear end install.
[Modified by Sabastian, 9:21 PM 9/7/2002]
[Modified by Sabastian, 9:21 PM 9/7/2002]




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and i saw stock heigh pics, what about lowered?