88 hf running obd0 b18a1 on pr4. iv replaced my thermo and my temp sensor that controls gauge. i can sit and idle fine and stays in middle for a good 30 mins until the Guage rises, when i drive it its a different story after maybe 2 miles its on its way up. BUT whils guage right on it peak i can put my hand on the rad and hold it.. its not even hot along with the hoses and motor one thing i noticed it FEELS like theres plenty going through my upper, but the lower hose feels like nothing has touched it but then again like i said i can touch the rad and engine while reading 260* and it dont phase me please help im thinking about hooking up a aftermarket temp guage next unless any ideas and also completly removing thermo ( its not a daily driver) i havnt checked my water pump but i am looking to change the timing belt soon... but im pretty sure im getting a good flow

 

i would check to make sure that your water pumps working by seeing if there is pressure through your cooling system. i would also check your thermostat because if your lower hose has no pressure than that means that your thermostats not opening. also make sure your headgaskets good because sometimes your thermostat wont open it you have a blown headgasket which would cause it to overheat. just check everything out before you start throwing parts at it because you might just be throwing your money away

 

sounds like a blown hg to me. also, letting your car overheat to 260 is a good way to warp the block and head

 

Leak down test it. <-----How many times a week do I recommend that D16SiHatch?

 

haha, atleast a couple times of the top of my head that i can remember lol

 

I would use a block tester to see if you have combustion gasses in the coolant.

 

ok no compression drop , all read 185, new t belt and water pump, thermo, and half radiator is fairly new(about 1 year) i took thermo out to test my coolant flow , im still noticing that the lower rad hose is cold to touch while rad, upper hose, block, heater hose is all warm to touch. the codes im throwing is 6 (ect), 9 (cyp sensor), 10 (iat), and 13(barametric pressure). pr4 obd0.. i know someone on here can help me!!!! i also was told by a friend he thinks the 10 and 13 is supposed to be code 23 (knock sensor).. two longs and 3 shorts, but there is a 3 sec pause between the longs. yes i know im replacing parts alot, but id rather replace now and not worry later also money is no issue right now