91 CRX Si with D15B Swap Newbie Needs HELP! KANSAS CITY, MO
Ok, 91 CRX SI with what I believe is a D15B engine from a Del Sol swapped into it.
Just bought this car for $1500. Newbie here so not sure where to start or how to even identify the components and how they did the swap with the wiring harness etc....
Upon first getting the car I had to crank it a few times, key on key off before it would start. THEN it needed to sit and idle for a good 5 minutes before it would run without stalling out and dying.
Current predicament: The coolant gauge on the dash would not work and my friend got me a universal one with it's own gauge for me to hook up but the adaptors to go into the engine block would not fit. It's obvious that they changed or installed a new coolant sensor and it is a one wire plug going into a newer set of wires (not factory) that go into the big harness under the dash. Still no gauge.
SO, I attempted to splice the old temp sens wire into the new sensor, started the car and started idling around 2k rpm up to 3k. This time i could hit the gas without it stalling and dying.
After turning off the car to change the temp sens wire back that i swapped it would not start. Hours later fired back up the same way, but if I turn off the car it won't start back up again, just cranks alot. I'm thinking it's getting flooded.
SO if anyone can help me with this list of things:
1. Help me identify if my engine is in fact a D15B
2. OBD0, OBD1, 2 CONVERTED?
3. SOHC? DOHC? converted? The 3 prong plug coming out of the back of the PGM-FI is unplugged. Should it be?
4. POSSIBLE FIXES FOR MY SITUATION?
Gallery of pictures of wiring harnesses and etc are here: http://gallery.me.com/heathenchild#100328
http://gallery.me.com/heathenchild#100328
Thanks!
Just bought this car for $1500. Newbie here so not sure where to start or how to even identify the components and how they did the swap with the wiring harness etc....
Upon first getting the car I had to crank it a few times, key on key off before it would start. THEN it needed to sit and idle for a good 5 minutes before it would run without stalling out and dying.
Current predicament: The coolant gauge on the dash would not work and my friend got me a universal one with it's own gauge for me to hook up but the adaptors to go into the engine block would not fit. It's obvious that they changed or installed a new coolant sensor and it is a one wire plug going into a newer set of wires (not factory) that go into the big harness under the dash. Still no gauge.
SO, I attempted to splice the old temp sens wire into the new sensor, started the car and started idling around 2k rpm up to 3k. This time i could hit the gas without it stalling and dying.
After turning off the car to change the temp sens wire back that i swapped it would not start. Hours later fired back up the same way, but if I turn off the car it won't start back up again, just cranks alot. I'm thinking it's getting flooded.
SO if anyone can help me with this list of things:
1. Help me identify if my engine is in fact a D15B
2. OBD0, OBD1, 2 CONVERTED?
3. SOHC? DOHC? converted? The 3 prong plug coming out of the back of the PGM-FI is unplugged. Should it be?
4. POSSIBLE FIXES FOR MY SITUATION?
Gallery of pictures of wiring harnesses and etc are here: http://gallery.me.com/heathenchild#100328
http://gallery.me.com/heathenchild#100328
Thanks!
Take some pics, it says on the block what engine it is. It's printed on the front, right where the block and tranny meet. Also does yours say DPFI or MPFI? A lot of this stuff is covered in the F&Q. Hope this helps
Ya, that is a D15B. Sorry I didn't see the pics link I was looking on my phone. As for OBD, I think it's OBD1 but I can't tell from the pics. Is there a jumper harness attached to the ecu? Also can you tell how the vtec is being activated? It will either be controlled by a vtec controller like a vafc or its been wired to be controlled by the ecu.
well its a sohc d15b and its obd1. you can see the ecu jumper and subharness branching off towards the engine bay. also you can see the dizzy adapter in the engine bay. i can tell from the pics that your throttle position sensor is not plugged in. that can definitely cause a problem like what you are encountering.
the wires and rubber piece you have pictured in dsc_265 is the old coolant fan switch which would have been located on the back of the block. on the newer engine this switch is located on the thermostat housing.
the wires and rubber piece you have pictured in dsc_265 is the old coolant fan switch which would have been located on the back of the block. on the newer engine this switch is located on the thermostat housing.
1)looks like a D15b to me :/
2)your crx is an ODB0 car. if the engine is from a del sol, then its converted to ODB1 i think.
3)SOHC (Single Over Head Cam) The gear in the pics is your Single Over Head Cam. DOHC would have two smaller gears in its place.
4) I don't think you can flood an MPFI engine. check your Main Relay first, common problem, causes no spark, but engine still turns over.
the stalling is likely a different problem all together. you need to do more trouble shooting on that one.
2)your crx is an ODB0 car. if the engine is from a del sol, then its converted to ODB1 i think.
3)SOHC (Single Over Head Cam) The gear in the pics is your Single Over Head Cam. DOHC would have two smaller gears in its place.
4) I don't think you can flood an MPFI engine. check your Main Relay first, common problem, causes no spark, but engine still turns over.
the stalling is likely a different problem all together. you need to do more trouble shooting on that one.
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That's part of the problem, when I hook up the TPS it runs smooth for a few minutes then the idle/throttle will go up 1000rpm everyother second and back down... Does that mean it needs to be cleaned?
Ok I cant look at the pics coz I am stuck on dial-up internet and it will take about 2 weeks to load them but,
Your temp gauge is controlled by a single wire sensor on the end of the head under the dizzy just ground the wire out to see if the gauge moves if it does the sensor is bad.
The fluctuating idle is a very common problem although it is normally higher than you say yours is going,possible cause is the EACV needs to be cleaned.
Something else that will cause a hard cold start is the coolant temp sensor to the ecu if it is not hooked up it wont tell the ecu to apply the "choke" and cold starting is a pain then.
Your temp gauge is controlled by a single wire sensor on the end of the head under the dizzy just ground the wire out to see if the gauge moves if it does the sensor is bad.
The fluctuating idle is a very common problem although it is normally higher than you say yours is going,possible cause is the EACV needs to be cleaned.
Something else that will cause a hard cold start is the coolant temp sensor to the ecu if it is not hooked up it wont tell the ecu to apply the "choke" and cold starting is a pain then.
i would also confirm the OBD swap is complete and most definately hooked up(TPS sensor) if something is unplugged the car will simply just not run right...the other thing i would do is check your throttle cable tension and the timing...either one of these being off would cause some of these issues...also make sure you have no vacuum leaks and confirm the main relay is doing it's job properly...if you search on this site you will find all the info necc. to check the main relay... goodluck with it and have faith! it is just a machine and once in the proper specs you will enjoy an awesome upgrade
one way to fix it would be to jack up the radiator cap... move the car out of the way...move a whole new car in its place and put the radiator cap back on.
Except your radiator cap is most likely a piece of **** too...so that probably wouldn't work either.
Except your radiator cap is most likely a piece of **** too...so that probably wouldn't work either.
this looks like a mini me swap with a z6 head
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