is there a trick to activate a constant AWD in a crv?
like the title says. im almost certain ive heard of a trick to get the vehicle to be in AWD at all times versus the real time AWD system. i have two crvs, one a 2000 5 speed and also a 2004 automatic and i would be interested in doing this to each one.
You dont want to trick the car into engaging the AWD because of one reason. The magnetic controlled clutches in the rear diff. They are controlled by a unit which takes reading from the VSA, abs, etc etc. If you trick into full time operation, You will cause issues in the VTM4 Control system as well as the rear diff itself.
if you pull your e brake up to drag the rear wheels a bit in the snow it will activate the rear diff. so you can have some fun in the snow but as far as being in awd all of the time it would be a waste ..
well im of the same feeling as far as it being a waste but for whatever reason both my mother and my girl friend's mother have crvs and feel a gap in the time of slip till the awd activates... maybe its just a mental thing but they both have a bit of apprehension. i read somewhere of someone moving a line, whether it be hydrolic or electrical, that would cause the awd to engage at all times and i cant find it anywhere
im not sure if you could make our Vs 4wd engaged all the time..
it wasnt engineered to be like that, but ive tried mock/jerk engaging
it everytime i turn in corners, like high speed approach.. down shift
on high rev making the front tires scratch a bit and loose or wooble
but w/o loosing traction, i could feel that theres a minimal roll on my
V everytime i do that..may be my stiffening bars helped to but my friend
saw it couple of times everytime we play on an abandoned road in his
place... this might be another reason why my abs light is on eversince
ive been doing that..LOL!
it wasnt engineered to be like that, but ive tried mock/jerk engaging
it everytime i turn in corners, like high speed approach.. down shift
on high rev making the front tires scratch a bit and loose or wooble
but w/o loosing traction, i could feel that theres a minimal roll on my
V everytime i do that..may be my stiffening bars helped to but my friend
saw it couple of times everytime we play on an abandoned road in his
place... this might be another reason why my abs light is on eversince
ive been doing that..LOL!
Theirs a easy way to do it, But you will cause issues in the Rear diff.
Its electronically controlled. So you run 12v power to the rear diff and the magnetic clutches will engage and will not disengage. Then the rear end will over heat, clutches will wear down and break and you'll have a jacked up rear diff
Its electronically controlled. So you run 12v power to the rear diff and the magnetic clutches will engage and will not disengage. Then the rear end will over heat, clutches will wear down and break and you'll have a jacked up rear diff
^^
im not sure if its electronically controlled,, from what i know it was
mechanical, once the front slips the rear diff will engage its controlled
by that dual pump thing...!?!? im no honda mech/tech im sure theres a
couple from here that could/should verify it,, as it was also discussed in
other crv sites, that rear diff may not take the load of constant 4wd, might
overheat or something..... theres also that thought will s2k's rear diff
could solve it....!?!? <-- this will take a lot of modding!
im not sure if its electronically controlled,, from what i know it was
mechanical, once the front slips the rear diff will engage its controlled
by that dual pump thing...!?!? im no honda mech/tech im sure theres a
couple from here that could/should verify it,, as it was also discussed in
other crv sites, that rear diff may not take the load of constant 4wd, might
overheat or something..... theres also that thought will s2k's rear diff
could solve it....!?!? <-- this will take a lot of modding!
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Wow, I feel like a complete idiot right now.
Your correct in the CRV not having a VTM4 set up. I have no clue why I figured it did.
And also from what I do remember it dose get its operation from the front axel when the wheels slip it transfers power to the rear end.
IDK how i made that mistake, Prolly because I've been ***** deep in nothing but VTM4 codes all week w/ people and snow here.
Your correct in the CRV not having a VTM4 set up. I have no clue why I figured it did.
And also from what I do remember it dose get its operation from the front axel when the wheels slip it transfers power to the rear end.
IDK how i made that mistake, Prolly because I've been ***** deep in nothing but VTM4 codes all week w/ people and snow here.
GO drive up a hill with mud or snow and keep the wheels spinning for a couple minutes. then go check how hot the rear diff is, nothing good can come of this. it is not meant for continuous operation.
just leave it alone.. the RT4WD is a way to keep it easy to drive and get good mileage last a long time and if you need to, have 4WD when the fronts are slipping. it is not intended for all of the time use .. the DPF (dual pump fluid) burns out and needs replaced or it will make an awful howl when you turn
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/forumdisplay.php?f=3
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/forumdisplay.php?f=3
the pump in a crv rear diff is a pretty low pressure pump and would not be able to move enough fluid to allow a cooler to do any good, so a cooler would be a terrible waste of time and money.
as for locking the rear, there is no way to lock it, short of opening it up and and welding the gears together and that would just be retarded. it was designed to be an assist for the front wheels in the event that they loose traction. only a small amount of the torque from the front wheels is tranferred to the rear in the event of a slippage.
so, to sum it up, a cooler will NOT work. period. don't try to lock it in because you will then hate your local Honda dealer, but they will love you. and tell the ladies to just be a little more patient, it will only work the way it is designed and not sooner.
by the way, I am a Honda Technician. that's how I know these things...
as for locking the rear, there is no way to lock it, short of opening it up and and welding the gears together and that would just be retarded. it was designed to be an assist for the front wheels in the event that they loose traction. only a small amount of the torque from the front wheels is tranferred to the rear in the event of a slippage.
so, to sum it up, a cooler will NOT work. period. don't try to lock it in because you will then hate your local Honda dealer, but they will love you. and tell the ladies to just be a little more patient, it will only work the way it is designed and not sooner.
by the way, I am a Honda Technician. that's how I know these things...
You dont want to trick the car into engaging the AWD because of one reason. The magnetic controlled clutches in the rear diff. They are controlled by a unit which takes reading from the VSA, abs, etc etc. If you trick into full time operation, You will cause issues in the VTM4 Control system as well as the rear diff itself.
Theirs a easy way to do it, But you will cause issues in the Rear diff.
Its electronically controlled. So you run 12v power to the rear diff and the magnetic clutches will engage and will not disengage. Then the rear end will over heat, clutches will wear down and break and you'll have a jacked up rear diff
Its electronically controlled. So you run 12v power to the rear diff and the magnetic clutches will engage and will not disengage. Then the rear end will over heat, clutches will wear down and break and you'll have a jacked up rear diff
All generations of CR-V have what is referred to as "real time 4 wheel drive" or "real time all wheel drive".
All variations of this system are entirely mechanical, there is no electrical component involved.
The system works using a pair of hydraulic pumps, one on the front of the propeller shaft coming out of the transmission, the other mounted at the rear of the shaft, at the front of the rear differential pack.
a variation in the rotational speed of the pumps creates a pressure differential, which engages a clutch pack at the rear differential, which in turn transfers power to the rear wheels.
the system is not designed to handle full time use. you will quickly burn up the clutch pack.
there are ways to convert a rt4wd vehicle to fwd (remove the propeller shaft), but going the opposite way would require a modification to the system, far more intensive of a modification than its worth.
Theirs a easy way to do it, But you will cause issues in the Rear diff.
Its electronically controlled. So you run 12v power to the rear diff and the magnetic clutches will engage and will not disengage. Then the rear end will over heat, clutches will wear down and break and you'll have a jacked up rear diff
Its electronically controlled. So you run 12v power to the rear diff and the magnetic clutches will engage and will not disengage. Then the rear end will over heat, clutches will wear down and break and you'll have a jacked up rear diff
So would you be able to wire it to a switch? This should work right? Unless someone forgets it is on.
Either way enter at ones own risk.
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