Well besides my main issue being a newb (not only to this site, but to the Honda world) I've also got an issue that searching did no help for. It seem like those who had similar issues, resolved it by ways that doesn't apply, or effect mine. Of course, I may have over looked the resolution, and just not realized it by now....

Anywhom, 25 years old, been doing the car thing for about 10 years now. From the Greater Cincinnati area.

Just recently picked up a near rust free 90 Hatch. Has 2 very small spots of rust right at the corner of the rear 1/4 and rocker, and a primer hatch... Has some ugly fiberglass fenders on it, and is painted Grabber Orange. Will be replacing the fenders with some OEM fenders, and probably repaint the car. I am not a fan of orange. Also thinking about putting Axis OG Sans (mesh) 15X8 with a low offset (what are those, 0 or +10?).

It's a d15b2 motor. With SI MPFI swap, and SI Tranny. Sitting on them awesome 13" (i keep em' clean though). And has what appears to be generic ebay purchased sleeve coil overs on it. Rides like complete ***, and bounces around like a Mexican jumping bean. Pretty annoying. But whatever. It'll hold until I can buy a set of Ksports, D2's, or STD (standard) coil overs.Also it has a 2.5" straight pipe to Flowmaster muffler. (it's a little too loud for my taste, so that will be replaced with a 2.25" pipe and maybe 18" resonator to a fart pipe.

I purchased the car for $1150. Known repairs needed were Blinkers didn't work (fixed, was a fuse). Radiator leaked (fixed today). While overlooking the engine bay in the afternoon where I had much better light to do so, I noticed the cooling fan wasn't connected to anything, and the o2 sensor wire was, lets just say questionably connected. So after putting in a new radiator, I wired in the o2 sensor wire, and ran a toggle on/off switch for the fan (since I didn't do the si swaps I don't know what is what on the harness. Like I said before, this is the first Honda I've owned). So all that's now fixed.

Now for my major problem.... It ran great the first two times I took it on the highway. Babied it, because I am not one to speed. More so in a car with crap springs on it. The 3rd time (after I just spent $200 to get it registered, titled, and inspected) I get on the highway, all hell brakes loose. It backfired, and felt like ignition cut. Ended up in 3rd gear limping up the 65mph highway on the shoulder doing about 35-40.

I have yet to give it a tune up... But before I do, has anyone had this issue before? I gave it another run tonight on the highway and did the same thing. Was able to do 50-60 alright. But after 60, the car had ZERO power. Didn't want to go past 60. By the time it did start to climb to about 60-64mph (used GPS for speed) it bucked real hard backfired, and continued on. Every few seconds it'd do that. Not a pleasant experience as you can imagine. Here's my guess. The Dizzy is on it's way out, or it needs rotor/cap/plugs/wires. BUT if it's the dizzy, I figure I may as well buy a new TD-02U from DK (distributor king) to replace the entire assembly. Then put new plugs/wires on.

Honda guru's I need your help with this issue.

BTW. I'll post a few pictures here. I dabble in photography and shoot with a Nikon D40 (because I am a broke ***). Always shoot in .raw and full manual mode.



^Some stickers my friend brought back from Japan. He also brought back a crap load of Candy, and that stuff is good! Kit Kats come in other flavors. Better flavors!




It's far from perfect, or where I want it to be, but it'd drivable... Kinda.

 

I LIKE THAT ORANGE and that sounds like it could be timeing them fenders are way ugly lol

 

I am thinking it's timing too. Either the dizzy isn't functioning properly under load, or its out of time, and out of tune. I just don't want to go dump $200 into a new dizzy, plugs and wires, if I don't have too. Whole reason for buying this car was, so that when I get rid of my xb (toaster) I don't have to make a car payment, thus for having more money to be able to survive.

 

First I just want to say, thank you for writing an intelligent, humorous, well thought out, grammaticaly correct post that actually sounds like it came from a functioning human being who doesn't smoke meth. Second that is a crazy orange lol. Third I also agree about it probably being a timing issue. Welcome to HT

 

welcome...and that hatch is money....minus the fenders, but i dont think the colors bad..

 

Yeah I figured a good first impression would maybe get the problem answered faster.... Instead of someone reading it and just saying, "f this newb".

 

Ok so update, it did need a tune up, pretty bad. Some of the wires were questionable and the plugs were looking pretty black. No big deal though, taken care of.

So I get in it to start it, and nothing still. Remembering "main relay" being a problem with a lot of older Honda's it seems, I looked for mine. Found it and held it in my hand why I turned the key to ON. The fuel pump does prime. And the relay clicks a few times. Now I know if the fuel pump is priming it is good (essentially). BUT if the relay is clicking *loud* is it bad?

If so, I found a site that shows a re-solder can be done to fix it. SO I suppose I am going to do the smack the relay and see if it'll start trick. And if that works, to try and repair it vs. Buying a new one.

Also, if this is the problem, would it be causing my 60mph cut?

 

Do you have any codes stored in the ECU? If you pull the passenger carpet away from the floor, you will see the ECU, with a red light blinking.

 

I have none on the dash, but did not know about the ECU blinking... That's an interesting feature. lol.

So checking the ECU I pulled a code 46... Now Looking threw the FAQ I don't see 46 shown...

 

Check the rotor in the distributor, the screw comes loose every now and again.

 

You sure it's 46?

1 Long Blink = 10
1 Short Blink = 1

It will then pause for a bit and give a new code or repeat the code.

 

I counted it threw about 6 times. Then after not finding code 46 on I went out and did it again.... Sure enough. 1 quick blink (which I am sure indicated ECU is working), then 4 quick, short pause (maybe 1 second), then 6 quick followed. Then 4, pause, 6.... Repeat until you turn the key off.

Rotor cap is good. I tried to turn it by hand, nothing, also tried to push/pull it while on the dizzy no movement what's so ever.

 

First one (14) is Idle Air Control (IAC Valve)

 

Well I knew IAC was goofin' up because I started to get the "honda rev" as we call it around here. The fluctuating idle. Heard it last night, but think that may have been something I accidentally did. I went to grab the throttle linkage to get the water pump churning a bit faster while I bleed the air out of the cooling system, and I accidentally, grabbed the linkage that connects to the IAC valve (i think that's it. Front side of manifold, connected with the t/b linkage?).

But that wouldn't 'cause a No Start would it?

 

BTW. I really don't think it's a 14 for the first code. Because it only flashes 1 once, and that's as soon as I turn the key to ON. Which every car I've ever had that was OBD O or OBD 1, that was to indicate that it is working and about to flash codes. Now of course, Honda is out of my expertise. So that being said, I am looking at this with an open mind, but keeping a tight look of what I am throwing money at.

 

Ok after thinking about it, it could be Code 4 then 6...

Code 6 makes since because well, the Fan wasn't wired in to the main harness when I bought the car. And to fix it I wired a on/off switch to the battery. So that I control it manually now. (it'll work until I get everything else figured out).

Code 4 states Crank Position Sensor. I can see that 'causing a no start, and not being able to rev past what seems to be 3K to my ears. I have to short shift it to get around or else it sounds like I am at rev limiter. And I've not ever had a CPS go out on me, so I am unsure if it'd 'cause it to have that "out of gas" feel when on the highway.

 

CPS is deff your problem then. You said the wiring was done before you got the car? first id check the wiring to make sure its all good, then try and replace the dizzy. make sure you have the 2 CPS wires running to the right spot on the OBD0 ecu, then make sure the 2 wires on the dizzy are correct in matching the engine harness.

 

Correct me if I am wrong here (i just read something on that) but if I replace the dizzy, isn't the problem going to still exists? Being as you're only replacing the dizzy, and not the sensor it's self. The sensor appears to be just wired into the dizzy, and NOT actually inside the dizzy.

 

Alright, so I purchased a TD02U dizzy from a member here to try and get this beast running again. I also replaced the temp switch since I had the dizzy off, and it was throwing a code for it.

So I replaced that no problems. Now the dizzy on the other hand, has NOT solved my issue.

Keep in mind, the car had ran fine for 2 days. No issues on the highway or anything like that. Then randomly the day, it started cutting at 3200K. Codes again are 4 and 6. 6 is now solved.

However, looking at the replacement dizzy I have, it looks a tad different. Mine has this little sensor/resistor thing on it, as to the replacement one doesn't.

The bottom one in the picture is the replacement. I put my new cap/plugs/wires onto the dizzy.
The TOP one is the one I had on.



Should the one I have on currently, have the same little sensor/resistor looking thing wired in as well?

OBD0 MPFI swap, TD02U dizzy.

Also I know main relay could be the result here right? If it clicks, its good correct? I feel 2 clicks and can fell the 3rd click when i let go of the key. (holding it in my hand)

Please help. Tired of sinking money into it, and about to sell the damn thing. I just want a running car again!

 

Also, I just checked the wiring....

Here's what I noticed, and unclear if maybe I'm missing something on the ECU or if it is indeed, done correctly (i purchased the car with the swap done)

Clip B, top row, center. Directly under the latch on the clip are empty. C1 and C2 and A3 A7 are wired through the firewall, and can't really fully trace them.

I have a orange wire and white/red stripe wire cut off the harness. Also a few more cut wires off the harness that aren't plugged into anything. But can't remember them off hand.