GUDE products
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Where All Funky Things Come From...., Stankonia, USA
I have a friend that is thinking about getting a GUDE head, trottlebody, Intake manifold, and cam for his 94 vtec accord. What do u guys think about GUDE products. Any feedback is welcomed.
What other companies provide those same products for his accord?
Thanks y'all.
[Modified by civic@uofw, 7:10 PM 9/5/2002]
What other companies provide those same products for his accord?
Thanks y'all.
[Modified by civic@uofw, 7:10 PM 9/5/2002]
considering that not a whole lot of companies touch the F22 engine, i think your friend should give Gude a chance and try them out for himself unless someone here actually has personal bad experience instead of hearing stuff from a friend of a friend... of a friend... -hell, your friend should even confront Gude with the rumors that have been floating on the internet and see what their response or rebuttal is...
It depends on the application. Apparently, much of Gude's horsepower numbers come from shaving the head to artificially raise compression in the cylinders. This is fine for using stock compression, but may be bad for raising compression with pistons.
i had an account w/ Gude but i'm not sure if my dealer status is still active... let me know if your friend is interested-my email is accordexchange@hotmail.com here's some more information=
94-96 ACCORD VTEC
DESCRIPTION: Strong power from 2000 RPM to redline
POWER BAND: 5000 RPM to 7200 RPM (280P)
IDLE: Good
SPECIFICATIONS: Intake LIFT- 0.400 DURATION- 268
Exhaust LIFT- 0.412 DURATION- 232
PART# HACS04 Camshafts (94-96 accord vtec)
PART# HATB02 Throttle Body (94-96 accord all 4 cyl)
PART# HARH05 Ported and Polished Cylinder Heads (94-96 accord vtec)
PART# HAAS01 Adjustable Cam Sprockets (99-00 accord 4 cyl)
PART# HAECU2 Computer Chips (94-95 accord vtec)
PART# HAHD05 Racing Headers (94-97 accord ex)
PART# HACP02 Clutches (90-96 accord 2.2)
94-96 ACCORD VTEC
DESCRIPTION: Strong power from 2000 RPM to redline
POWER BAND: 5000 RPM to 7200 RPM (280P)
IDLE: Good
SPECIFICATIONS: Intake LIFT- 0.400 DURATION- 268
Exhaust LIFT- 0.412 DURATION- 232
PART# HACS04 Camshafts (94-96 accord vtec)
PART# HATB02 Throttle Body (94-96 accord all 4 cyl)
PART# HARH05 Ported and Polished Cylinder Heads (94-96 accord vtec)
PART# HAAS01 Adjustable Cam Sprockets (99-00 accord 4 cyl)
PART# HAECU2 Computer Chips (94-95 accord vtec)
PART# HAHD05 Racing Headers (94-97 accord ex)
PART# HACP02 Clutches (90-96 accord 2.2)
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I was told gude mills the **** out of heads and uses OEM valvetrain components.
yah like i cant do that at my local machineshop and order a cam from webcams
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 5:39 AM 9/6/2002]
yah like i cant do that at my local machineshop and order a cam from webcams
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 5:39 AM 9/6/2002]
shaving the head to artificially raise compression in the cylinders.
if you do it right, its a cheap and effective way to pump compression
(A little OT but not really) Has anyone heard of what there products can do for an H22. Or is there any other companies that has similar products with better performance.
I have a friend that is thinking about getting a GUDE head, trottlebody, Intake manifold, and cam for his 94 vtec accord. What do u guys think about GUDE products. Any feedback is welcomed.
What other companies provide those same products for his accord?
Thanks y'all.
What other companies provide those same products for his accord?
Thanks y'all.
Is there any truth(hard evidence) to this or is this just a rumor?
Unfortunatly the amount of people who've bought a head from them is small. I would do it just to see what the deal is.... but thats an expensive experiment
i run the gude/bullfrog race package on my 91 accord. the only item i didnt recieve with the package was the ported t-body, simply because i already had a JG t-body.
mill the **** out of the head you ask? yes this is totally true. stock valves? yes, but they never imply anything different and they do have the valve job as specified. the port work is minimal and is basically a clean up job on the intake and exhaust ports. the intake mani is only ported at the plenum and at the head, the runners arent ported.
the power it produced is no where near what they quote. the cam is lumpy as noted and does pull pretty good. i have one of their cam gears as well but have never had it on a dyno so i just advanced it couple of degrees.
i dont have any idea how much power i gained with the package but like i said its not 40 hp or whatever they claim. INMO, bolting up the h22 tranny to a f22 block will create the same if not better gains as the package. i have both, as well as the regular bolt ons, a **** ton of weight reduction, and am running 9.0@77-78 1/8 miles. thats a solid 13 second run in the 1/4.
attached is a video of my accord running a 9.23 at the local 1/8 mile strip, i am pitted against a ram air t/a. the next pass i ran a 9.0.
http://63.65.185.148/Honda.avi
[Modified by kentucky accord, 3:35 PM 9/7/2002]
mill the **** out of the head you ask? yes this is totally true. stock valves? yes, but they never imply anything different and they do have the valve job as specified. the port work is minimal and is basically a clean up job on the intake and exhaust ports. the intake mani is only ported at the plenum and at the head, the runners arent ported.
the power it produced is no where near what they quote. the cam is lumpy as noted and does pull pretty good. i have one of their cam gears as well but have never had it on a dyno so i just advanced it couple of degrees.
i dont have any idea how much power i gained with the package but like i said its not 40 hp or whatever they claim. INMO, bolting up the h22 tranny to a f22 block will create the same if not better gains as the package. i have both, as well as the regular bolt ons, a **** ton of weight reduction, and am running 9.0@77-78 1/8 miles. thats a solid 13 second run in the 1/4.
attached is a video of my accord running a 9.23 at the local 1/8 mile strip, i am pitted against a ram air t/a. the next pass i ran a 9.0.
http://63.65.185.148/Honda.avi
[Modified by kentucky accord, 3:35 PM 9/7/2002]
thank you for posting!!!
i guess what we confirmed was: dont buy the Gude package. get your headwork done elsewhere.
thats too bad about them not porting the intake runners
BTW: congradulations on the 9.0 1/8th. When my Mustang (95 GT) was stock it was lucky to run a 9.2. You're going in the right direction.
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 10:40 AM 9/7/2002]
i guess what we confirmed was: dont buy the Gude package. get your headwork done elsewhere.
thats too bad about them not porting the intake runners

BTW: congradulations on the 9.0 1/8th. When my Mustang (95 GT) was stock it was lucky to run a 9.2. You're going in the right direction.
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 10:40 AM 9/7/2002]
hey not a problem. im just glad i can give some real feedback on the product instead of grapevine stories. if i could do it all over again, i would still have the head milled all to **** just because the f22 comp ratio is waaaa too low. i would probably go with either the gude, jg, or web cam, if the specs are the same, the power is going to be the same. i havent checked in a while but i believe that gude has the most aggresive grind. i would p&p myself or have portflow do it, the stock springs are fine because the f22 cant rev and stock valves are fine too.
i would probably source one of those 92-93 intake mani's with the flapper deal and just yank the flappers or make sure they stay open 100% of the time. i would have that mani extrude honed. any ported t-body will work, JG, gude, RC, etc.
the gude ECU is a joke, my a/f ratio and EGTs are always in check, if not a tit on the rich side so a stock ECU will do just fine. im not so sure that gude doesnt just slap a sticker on the stock ecu for the F22 anyway.
while i had the head off i would source the highest comp and biggest bore pistons i could find and slap those in. a simple adjustable fuel regulator would take care of the fuel problems if the stock ecu couldnt keep up(which i doubt).
thanks for the encouragement, my goal is to have the fastest n/a SOHC accord in the country.
i would probably source one of those 92-93 intake mani's with the flapper deal and just yank the flappers or make sure they stay open 100% of the time. i would have that mani extrude honed. any ported t-body will work, JG, gude, RC, etc.
the gude ECU is a joke, my a/f ratio and EGTs are always in check, if not a tit on the rich side so a stock ECU will do just fine. im not so sure that gude doesnt just slap a sticker on the stock ecu for the F22 anyway.
while i had the head off i would source the highest comp and biggest bore pistons i could find and slap those in. a simple adjustable fuel regulator would take care of the fuel problems if the stock ecu couldnt keep up(which i doubt).
thanks for the encouragement, my goal is to have the fastest n/a SOHC accord in the country.
i still think you should contact Gude and confront them with these issues and rumors... cause everyone's car and setup is different as well as each setup for NA, FI, or nitrous is different... just because one person's setup included Gude products and/or services doesn't mean Gude was the problem in particular... if a person has cam gears, the only smart way to tune it is at a dyno-not just advancing it a few degrees...
i have had their products on my car now for 4 years and i dont have any complaints except that i would just do things a little differently next time. i dont know if that last reply was directed at me or not, but i have contacted gude with suggestions and input for accord products. i will tell you this though, i had to practically take them to court over my core charge return. it took me 8 months to recieve my core money back.
at the time i was messing with the cam gear, there wasnt a dyno shop within 150 miles of me.
so, what i would do is head to the nearest expressway in the early hours, pull off in the emergency lane, play with the cam gear, run the **** out of the car from 0-100 or so, pull over make changes with it again, and again, until i found the "degree" that worked for me and that i liked the most.
we do have several dyno places around now but i just havent had time to get over to one and plus i dont really want to spend the money just to tune a cam gear or mess with my base timing.
at the time i was messing with the cam gear, there wasnt a dyno shop within 150 miles of me.
so, what i would do is head to the nearest expressway in the early hours, pull off in the emergency lane, play with the cam gear, run the **** out of the car from 0-100 or so, pull over make changes with it again, and again, until i found the "degree" that worked for me and that i liked the most.
we do have several dyno places around now but i just havent had time to get over to one and plus i dont really want to spend the money just to tune a cam gear or mess with my base timing.


