I would like to know which is a better unit the kens kustoms brake booster delete http://www.kenskustomchassis.com/Brake_Components.htm or chase bays brake booster delete http://www.chasebaysonline.com/shop/...?id_product=10?

also whats the difference between the chase bays wilwood or tilton?

the kens kustoms unit cost 110 compared to 225 for the chase unit. the chase unit also looks alot better but i dont know it its worth the extra 115. let me know what you guys think. thanks

 

What kind of master cylinder does the kens kustom delete kit come with? I'd assume that's probably where the price difference is at.

 

ken kustoms has the wilwood master cylinder.....have one in my car.

 

chase's kits are top notch. the ken kustoms kit looks boring to me. non flush bolts.

 

both look pretty neat to me

 

Is Chase's really only a 7/8" though?

 

Damn, that murdered out black sounds pretty bad *** though....hows the brake feel change with this swap? Been thinking about this myself...

 

Thats what it says in the pic...

 

And that's why I asked, to get some confirmation from someone who actually has it, not for someone to read it as clearly as I did

 

Well I assume if they CAST it into the part, it's probably true...

 

Are you retarded? I'm not saying that's not really a 7/8" mc even Helen Keller can tell you that; I'm saying it's silly that they would default to such a small mc and not give you any options (through chasebays) to get any other sizes. In my opinion, it would be dumb to spend $225 on some booster delete kit and get a smaller mc than what you already have. That may just be me, but I actually value my brakes.

So does anybody on here actually have these, or what?

 

There are a few people here that have them, yes. From what I have read, it's not recommended for street use. I've driven with manual brakes before...not fun.

You honestly would probably do well to send chase a message on here with questions about his product specifically. As far as ken's goes, I'd try sending an email. Doing that would probably be a lot quicker than waiting for someone to stumble across this thread in the build section who just happens to have used one or both of these products. Just my $.02 though

 

just to let you guys know the older cars had manual brakes. but the old cars also weighed the same as a tank. i have removed some things to lighten my car(hatchback). i dont think i will have a problem braking my car on the street.

I would just like some people who have these units to chime in at let me know which is better thanks.

 

So basically this is for looks ONLY. DD should stay away I assume...

 

This is what I've heard, yes. Our braking systems weren't designed to run manual brakes. If you want to know how it feels before buying this, get something big enough to block off the port on your intake manifold that goes to your brake booster and go drive around. Lmk how you like it, I assure you it feels like **** and I felt VERY unsafe when I was forced to drive that way in my old 240 (brake booster took a **** coming home from NOPI Nationals one year and the brakes were permanently locking up unless I disconnected the booster).

Who knows though, perhaps it feels a lot safer/better in a civic as they are a lot lighter. Personally, I'll stick with my power brakes.

 

Oddly enough.....same thing happened in my 240 coming back from a show. Had an rb swap in it and the breaks just locked up out of nowhere. I had to drive full spool, 12 miles with the brakes locked up to get to a parts store to get it off. They didn't have the part so I undid it all and plugged the lines. It did feel like **** and I hated it. If thats what It feels like, I don't want it! Thanks for the heads up!!! BTW, yes, the breaks were RED HOT!

 

The only manual brake vehicle I've driven was a 1970(?) Chevy C10; it had a stupid hard pedal and it took years to slow down.

 

go to the link at top nd read about the chase bay booster. well here is the cut and copy from the link above at top for chase bay.

The Chase Bays Brake Booster delete kit completely eliminates the OEM brake booster and master cylinder. We use an aftermarket master cylinder. (Wilwood or Tilton brand) The size of the Master Cylinder used varies from 3/4 to 1 inch.

 

Ahh, there we go. Haha, thanks for the info. I just didn't see anywhere to designate a specific size.

 

The reason for the smaller MC is to reduce the pedal effort. The pedal gets a little longer from having to push the same amount of fluid with a smaller diameter MC, but the pedal effort gets reduced from what it would be with a 15/16 or 1" MC.

 

lol what're the odds? I had an rb20 swap with hks gt2535 turbo and supporting mods

 

so nobody can tell me which is better to run?

 

Found someone with the kens setup for you man. He specifically says in his thread that it's an extremely stiff pedal. As you can see, he's got a full on drag car that will never see the street.

http://jdmcity.com/showthread.php?p=108307#post108307