Anyone here do a bit of circle track racing? I bought a 95 integra 1.8L 5 speed 4 dr for racing at my local track. I'm looking tips and suggestions. I'm going to borrow some specs from a 92 honda that another guy runs.

He runs 13"x7" zero offset racing rims. Anyone know if this kinda rim will fit my car?

And I'm going to run tokico hp blue shocks but no idea what to run for springs?

I can modify the camber on the car for a 10 degree on the rf and 8 degrees everywhere else. Does anyone know a reputable company to go to for something like that?

 

We do have a few circle track guys here, I'll wait for them to chime in.

-A 0 offset wheel will stick out like crazy on your car. You should be looking at something in the +38 - +42 offset range. +0 would seriously stick out ~2".

-Springs: something relatively cheap? Tokico blues can't handle too much rate, so I'd guess something off the shelf or even OEM (ITR or something).

-If you search for "camber" here you'll find lots of info on various adjustable control arms and such. Find directions (and more info) here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/faq-road-racing-autocross-forum-2574277/

 

A zero offset is what another guy runs and he was the champion in 08 so I think I'll use what works lol. I'm thinking I'll just buy the tokico shocks with springs matched for them and see how it works and then switch some stuff around.

 

I'm not sure if 13" wheels would clear the integra brakes.

 

and i was thinking that 10 deg of neg camber is immense; (when i've run -4 deg up front, the suspension almost looked like it was broken!). i'd be a little concerned about CV joint failures running -10 deg static camber (the double wishbone susp has a good camber gain curve; you'll have even more neg camber when your susp is compressed in a corner).

that is just opinion; for all i know, the CV axles might be able to take that angle just fine. but i'd be a little concerned!

good luck and have fun!

 

assuming since this is circle track you are going to be running a track that has a little bit of banking on it??

with that said running the camber you want to run wouldnt you be decambering away from the pavement. (ie nascars running positive camber on speedways)

also just because "he" won last year doesnt mean thats the end all be all setup. maybe you could run 15x8 or 9 and be more successful. obviously there is more to it than just changing up wheel/tire sizes but just showing examples.

good luck. shake n bake!

 

I'm thinking he meant the rules allow UP TO -10* camber. I don't think that's even physically possible, the wheel would be hitting the shock.

For the wheels, Brad pretty much said it. You could also be getting all kinds of rubbing on the tires with the wheels sticking out that far, especially with crummy shocks. There are some 13s that clear Integra brakes.

"If you don't chew Big Red, then f*ck you."

 

at our track cars are for the most part stock, I mean a damn 4 dr neon won the championship last year. were allowed camber plates etc to get up to 10 degrees. I mean really it's not that much. I'll post the suspension rules.


Suspension:
1. MUST be same type as vehicle was produced with- no 4 link in place of leaf springs, etc.

2. Any stock type shock or strut allowed, no adjustable shocks, MUST mount to stock locations. No coil over suspensions.

3. Any OEM style anti roll bar allowed, MUST mount to body at stock location, suspension end may be modified. A rear anti roll bar may be added. Two stock bars may be stacked.

4. Spring: Any OEM style springs allowed. Spring must fit in the OEM spring pocket. No spacers allowed. No adjustable ride height. Rubber spring helpers allowed. Springs may be cut to alter ride height.

5. Camber adjustment on front wheels may be achieved by strut camber plates, eccentric adjusters, crash bolts, relocation of the strut tower, lengthening of the lower control arm, or addition of adjustable heim joints on the pivot of the lower control arm. All welding, fabrication and parts used MUST be of the highest quality, any pivot bolt changes should use a larger diameter bolt if possible. Consult with the tech director for any unusual design. The right front wheel may be set at a maximum of 10 degrees negative camber. The other three wheels may be set at a maximum of eight degrees camber.

6. Steel or aluminum wheels. No wheel spacers allowed. No unilug or multiple bolt pattern wheels. Studs MUST engage the nuts by at least the diameter of the stud. Maximum 15" x 7" wheels, unless the car was originally produced with larger. Oversize nuts are recommended. Wheels MUST be the same size and offset (back space) side to side. Maximum wheel offset is zero. Wheel mount flange and brake rotor face is in the middle of the rim section.

7. Tires: any radial passenger car tire, 13 , 14 or 15 inch diameter. Maximum 195mm section width, minimum 60 series aspect ratio. Maximum 205mm section width, minimum 60 series aspect ratio for 13 inch diameter tires. Minimum DOT tread wear rating 320. No directional tires, race tires, asymmetrical tires or R-compound tires. No ground grip, studded or re-cap tires allowed. No altering of tires by softening agents etc. Tires may be checked with a durometer. .All four tires on the car MUST be the same size, section width and aspect ratio.

8. Brakes: 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, MUST be functioning at all times. Rotors MUST be original diameter to car, no drilled or slotted rotors. Calipers MUST be original family (e.g. Datsun to Datsun) and MUST bolt to original mount, may be updated to a newer OEM style. No aftermarket calipers allowed. No driver adjustable brake proportioning valve(s). No antilock or A.B.S. brakes.

Are you guys sure you've seen a 10 degree offset on these cars? Todd's been running one on his car since 2007 and it's still working fine. The 0 offset wheels work fine to they stock out a bit but not to terrible.

2008 Championship car "Spongebob Squaretires"


I get my car later today, I have to get the previous owners decals off to clear the "publication ban" on the car lol and I'll post some pictures up.

"If you ain't first, your last!"

 

Oh as well, a common thing at the track is guys go out and buy new tires and camber shave them almost 10 degrees the opposite way to get the maximum amount of rubber touching the surface.

We run a track with a decent progressive banking, I believe it's 7-11-13 something like that. It's not uncommon for mini's to go 5 wide through the corner.

this photo isn't five wide but you can see the banking and how wide the track is

 

That actually looks about how I expected it to look.

Maybe I don't know my circle track driving, but I'd think if you add 10* of camber, and then shave that camber back in, you might as well just NOT have that camber in the first place and not shave the tire. The point of changing the camber is to maximize the tire's contact patch in a corner. I'd initially think increased track width might come into play at higher speeds, but you guys can't be going that fast.

On the upside for you, the +0 offset wheels would probably allow for that camber, if you wanted to run it (short of bending the upright a lot, there are no off-the-shelf kits that have that kind of adjustability). Beyond that, I can't think of any reason to do it, although it is interesting that from your pic everyone else is doing it too.

 

Yeah it's pretty crazy, there was a kid in a early 90's cavalier out there with the wheels all cambered like that. looked pretty crazy. He had a pretty good year but the cavalier just isn't durable enough for wheel to wheel like the neon's and honda/acura's. I know todd(runs the yellow civic) has bent control arms and extended lowers, custom camber adjusting uppers, and pretty much the same on the other side. his setup is pretty custom but all legal.

 

Do you guys have a decent payout for wins?

 

For mini's it's enough. Few hundred covers most expenses. biggest expense is gas in ministocks as long as you stay clean.

 

from my experience of circle track racing..none. i would run my outer negative cambered. not to the extent the rules allow. due to the fact the banking isnt a superspeedway of sorts. the inside i would run closer to 0* camber depending on the straight aways. thats just me using my vast experience as a nonseasoned circle track racer. lol.

and rule 7 on tires is junk. no 205s on 15. which means 195/60/15s= 19.49in diameter..205/60/13=17.85. acceleration or top end..hmmmm.

sweet baby jeezus.

 

Yeah I've always had that problem. The tire size rule just sucks. for that reason. Besides the fact looks like the spec tire for 2011 will be the hockey puck of a tire cooper cobra gt.

 

If everyone's on the same tire, it shouldn't matter that the tire sucks

 

that is true.

To be perfectly honest I'm not familiar with honda's at all, back in high school I drove an old 84 ramcharger and since then it's been v8 trucks. I bought a 93 mustang with the intent to race it in this class but if would suck or cost me a fortune to be competitive and thats the closest I've been to a 4 banger car lol.

Been working hard on the integra tho. got it home tuesday evening and wednesday evening I had 90% of the decals off and started stripping the doors.

 

So I borrowed a 13x7 race rim and it fits fine. if I push it up against the hub it spins but when I bolt it to the hub it gets hung up on the caliper it needs like an 1/8th inch of clearance. So I figure I'll just order a bigger backspacing(2" backspace instead of 3 1/2")

 

You can also grind the caliper bracket a little. Plenty of people have done that for that very reason.

 

might as well take all those sponsors off your sig and just make it -mom and pop shops. lol.

 

I think I've decided what I'll likely do to get my suspension chamber. There is nothing in the rules about adding to the lca mount so I wasthinking I'd get it extend, or I could put a hiem joint on the lca to ad with adjustability. I'm ging to buy a premade uca with the camber adjustability probably something off ebay, then for the driver side where I need more positive camber I'll extend the mounts the proper amount that I need. as for the rear I'm not 100% sure what I should do there I think it's a similar thing have to get a better look at the suspension design.

 

yes..you took my advice. for the rear like you said i would do the same thing just to a lesser degree. also maybe do the whole flip flop your front lca trick. see if you like that "feel" better.

 

Heim-joint ended LCA = bad news.


I'd consider something else.

 

Actuallythat is not totally true. Just that one is poorly made. He made the setup wrong. Heim is great for lca most race cars use heims. Heims are strong in one direction and not the other this one has the load going in the wrong direction or it was binding. Also there is way too much heim sticking out just relying on the jamnut for support.

Or it could be a cheap heim, which you can buy now a days all over the place.

 

So as I said before I'm looking at picking up some camber adjusting upper control arms. Looking at some stuff off ebay:


they have about 9 total degrees of adjustment. I figure I'll get the driver side welded so that when the balljoint is all the way to the left I get my 8 degrees of camber and can adjust it to suit whatever I feel nets me the best results. the same to be done on the passenger side but the lca will be extended again with the ball joint to the extreme left so that I can adjust the spindle from 10 to 1 degree of camber.

The rears I'm not completely sure how to get my 8 degrees but I'm going to go the full extent and not worry about adjustment for the rear.