so just got my h22 del sol swap done...


the thign that bothers me is that after 1000 rpm is is loud and like the motor is shaking the whole chassis!!!.


but when its idleing, or below 1000 rpm its like you can't even hear it .


is there anything i can do about the loudness!! ??? it sounds like your inside the engine bay. or like there a 1000watt sub playing 24/7

 

did you remove any insulation? is there a leak in the exhaust? did you cut the hole for the cables and shifter too big? those are things i would want to check for the noises.

as for the shaking, what mounts are you using? any of the bolts loose? and how much shaking? my h22 vibrates a good amount.

you gotta let us know what you checked and did because there could be many things that would cause those problems. good luck.

 

hmm well i didnt actually do the swap my mech did it. he said he tried to fill the hole for the shifter cables with something i forgot, and i think the flexpipe is kinda old cus i got it checked out at the muffler shop when they welded my header... so maybeeee when i get enough money to get the whole piping done because its using the stock piping -_-.

the mounts are thoes 150$ cheap black ones, mech said they are really stiff... well im not actually sure anymore if its shaking or the if its loud. cus when it revs it gets loud from 1000-4000rpm then after 4000rpm it quiets down, i dunno how to explain it... like from 1-4k it sounds like a mixed muffled loud sound... and after 4000 it sounds like a accurate motor revving... DUNNO

 

with my experience the real cheap steel mounts vibrate a lot weather it be a light single cam or a heavy duece duece. try a better quality mount like hasport or innovative

 

aww damn ! so new mounts... nething else besides that?

 

i would retighten all your motor mount bolts first

 

okay will do! and im getting **** mileage probbaly the "jun" chip p28

 

What cheap black mounts did you happen you use? I used the cheap Yonaka mounts back in the day which they sell now for around that price and i didnt have vibration problems in my eg.

Excessive vibration/noise could come from alot of things, especially when its an entire powertrain swap. Bad/wrong/binding axles, loose/missing bolts, bad motor position (look to see if the motor is actually sitting straight). Sometimes the T bracket will sit on the rear mount itself if he didnt lower or position the motor properly (Mechanics can and will mess up, depending on their experience) ****, ive seen H swaps where the driver side mount (HCP mount) sat at an angle in proportion to the shock tower and the car vibrated no matter what. Also there is the uneven-firing motor due to bad compression (uneven compression that is) and unbalanced flywheels.

Just trying to say it could be anything and I'd have him look it over since you paid for it

 

hmm he told me the mounts were really stiff or something.. and about the positioning of the motor he just sit careful when i drive cus the oil pan is low.. but ill ask him more about it.. and also he said something about the whole he cut for the shift linkage,

 

One thing you could look at with cheap mounts would be the trans mount. Ive seen, with poor CAD designing or lack thereof, the bracket of the trans mount has too much material on it and it on many occassions has sat right on the framerail and the vibrations, fore and aft movement of the motor would go throughout the entire cars. What i meant by the positioning of the motor is, REGARDLESS of what he says or what you'd think, pop the hood and look at the motor to see if it sits level in the chassis. We all know the H swap is going to sit low, I'm talking about if you can kneel down and look across the shock towers and see if its sitting level right to left then go to the front of the car and look for anything unusual. Check the axle angles while youre at it

Look between the framerail and that mount bracket for clearance if you cant see the ground between the two they're touching, look at the rear t bracket and make sure its not leaning on the rear mount, and look to see if the shifting mechanism is not sitting on the trans mount bracket too. Those are just a few things you can check (or have him check)

 

hmm thanks for teh advice ill be sure to have him take a look =D.

and i currently running a p28 with a "jun" chip.. you know those bs ones that raise the redline and make u run rich.. well it kills mileage like to the point of 16mpg.... -_- but im starting can just having the chip actually give you 16mpg? or is there other factors invovled?

went to a muffler shop and they said my flex pipe might be bad.

stock h22a, aftermarket air intake are the only mods.

 

Yes those "chips" can do that and some even block off some trouble coses that would be an indicator of such a problem (Code 1, oxygen content, for example). Hell,the chip maker (and need i remind you the so called jun chip had been around since like 2000 and there is no telling that someone made their own "jun" chip with all kinds of variations so you really cant tell) That would be your prime suspect for the MPG issue.

There are plenty of other factors though, including inadequate tire pressure, lots of racing and WOT driving (flooring it), driving only in the lower gears, lots of city driving. I could go all day on that but you get the idea.

 

Mickey mouse builds yeild mickey mouse results

Your axle placement may be off too ...maybe a wheel bearing...straight h22 swaps = yuk

H2B as soon as possible my friend

 

i agree.. you get what you pay for..