So I'm getting ready to order all new brake stuff for my 94 integra ls. I've recently boosted it and want to know that I'll be able to stop when I want it to. Right now it's just el cheapo stuff and during hard driving/braking it fades out badly. So I'm planning on running brembo blanks and hawk hps with stainless steel lines on all 4 corners of the car. It's going to run me $231 shipped for everything. Anyone running this setup or have a better suggestion. I know it's probably the most common one I can think of and decently priced.

 

You could get that setup, though depending on how much boost youre running and how spirited you drive (the faster it goes, the more force and distance it will take to stop), and tire condition, (the more/uneven the wear the more force and distance it will take to stop) , you could still end up with fade. If that is what you plan to run or what you can afford, be sure the fluid is flushed out for fresh since frequent fading will heat up the fluid to its boiling point, rendering it useless.

For better results, you may want to upsize them to maybe an 11in stock caliper upgrade, or 11.1 SpecR with HPS pads and lines. The pads have more surface area and will definitely haul your Teg down faster and you'll like the feeling throughout braking each time

 

^^^ thank you finally. Not exactly what I wanted hear but at least I heard something.
The car will be on 10-12lbs making 250-280whp. I don't drive like a complete idiot but I do like to have fun. Honestly most of what I'm worried about is if I'm flying up the highway messing with someone and another car happens to come over in front f me or some scenario like that. I figured since I'm un hooking all the brake lines and everything the old fluid will just empty out correct? Install new lines and new fluid and bleed the brakes. Correct?

 

The HPS pads will have better initial bite than the pads you currently have. Slowing down from highway speeds over and over again will start to heat them up alot, so over time that 250-280whp will do them in. Try to keep from spirited driving until you get something larger.

Yes that would be the way you can flush out the fluid. Get a fluid with a high boiling point too and use that fluid instead. I believe its Motul 600. That way at least the fluid wont boil and start forming moisture that will eventually make it impossible to stop safely repeatedly.

 

That's the thing I don't plan on doing anything else on the brakes except for what I've mentioned. I have to much in the car already.

 

I guess that's the best you'll have to do. Just dont go overboard on the high speed stopping and give yourself ample distance for braking and you'll be fine

 

Yeah I have no intentions of doing multiple high speed pulls on the highway. I'm trying to make the car stop better/quicker then it doe's now. I'd love to upgrade to itr stuff in the front and ep3 stuff in the back but it's probably about 6-7 hundred bucks.

 

Coolio. I bought my ep3 rear setup for little coin.

Salvage yard calipers and brackets $26 dollars (half off wednesdays)
02-03 ep3 rotors $52
HPS pads $40 shipped (from a HT member)

My s2k front setup
Majestic Honda calipers $130 (2 years ago i dont know how much they are now)
HPS pads $80 shipped
bracket surfacing done by me
New blank 11.8" rotors with 4x100 pattern already 130 shipped (from Brian at fastbrakes 2 years ago)

No fade no matter what the weather or driving and you feel like Zeus grabbed tghe car and pulled it back if you really get on it. I use VERY little pedal pressure to stop hard but its not touchy. Feels great all the time, even with snow tires. On the azenis tires i had, you can stop perfect no matter the speed or how deep you get in the corners.

 

So are stainless lines even needed in my situation? It seems like a waste of money for a street car. Also would the hawk hps plus be a better pad to use then just the regular hawk hps?
Current setup I'm going to run is brembo blanks in the front and autozone rotors in the rear "just bought them like 3k ago. Hawk hps pads on front and rear and new ate type 200 fluid. Possibly stainless lines if they really are called for. Thanks

 

Not necessary, but they dont flex like stock lines therefore giving you consistentcy in modulation, ESPECIALLY for ABS-equipped cars. But short answer no they are not needed.

As for Hawk's pad compounds you dont want to use the HP Plus pads on the street. Alot of initial bite, noisy and dusty. Plus they have to get up to a certain high temp to achieve its greatness, its a track/autocross pad. They will wear pretty quick and wear those rotors down fast. Stick with the HPS.

 

So are they something I should consider or not? Will it make a vast improvement in braking? I'm just worried about wasting money b/c I heard they need replaced about every 3 years where as stock doesn't. Btw thanks for all the input. At least one person is willing to help someone out.

 

Dont use the HP plus at all on the street. The high friction material will wear out WAY faster than HPS, plus they will eat your rotors up. They actually will brake less efficient than stock even untill they reach I believe 150 and up degrees, then they brake very hard, but high dust, lots of noise, accelerated pad wear and fast rotor wear will be noticed. No HP plus unless you're autocrossing or road racing. HPS will be more than enough for the street, plus even though they will wear a little faster than stock (I have HPS pads and i still havent changed them in 2 years) you wont have to change rotors unlike the HP plus which will dig into your rotors then resurfacing wont be an option for you. You;d have to buy pads and rotors probably every year and a half at the most, if the noise and dust dont drive you crazy first (HP plus)

 

Yeah I'm not getting the hp +. I planned on hps from the start but was just wondering if the others would be better or not. Cool it's official then.
brembos and hps pads with type 200 fluid. no stainless lines

 

 

While on topic, what would you suggest for fluid. My setup will be EBC ulta slotted rotors hawk HPS stainless steel lines on stock calipers for the GSR. I don't plan on using this setup for the track, I'll swap pads and fluid or whatever if I do. Main use is on the street, and I am only making 185whp. My intent is better feel and bite for the street on occasianl use. I've been trying to read th descriptions of Motul RBF600 vs Motul 5.1 vs Motul D.O.T 4, ATE Gold type 200, AP 550. The descriptions are not providing enough info that experinece has.

 

Better feel can be achieved a number of ways, including type of pad compound and stainless lines, all the way up to multiple piston calipers.e Lines will help alot with the feel without breaking the bank. Since they are in your plans, you'll get it.

AP racing type 5.1 (compatible with DOT 3 systems) is formulated for street and track use. ATE Super Blue/TYP 200 is another great fluid as well. I dont know if the others can be used on the street or formulated for street use. The 2 above have very high dry boiling points, but more important for street cars, very high wet boiling points. The ATE one you can get a liter of it for right around 20 dollars

 

I just got off the phone 212 shipped. front brembo blanks,hawk hps pads f/r and russell speed bleeders f/r. I order 2 liters of ate type 200 for $34 shipped. $12 a liter plus $10 shipping. north american motorsports is who I ordered it from if your interested. I'm skipping the stainless lines. After researching it for a day or 2 it's not really called for on my car.

 

coolio. let em know how it comes out

 

Sorry for thread jacking but I am in the process of getting a upgrade brake set up too. I was leaning towards the EBC rotors and Green Pad for street use and track every so often. This car will boost in the future so i was wondering if this set up is good enough or any better set up in this budget set up.

 

ATE superblue fluid works perfect for dd and autox,
hp+ pads, Yes they are dusty but they bite really good for autox