i wanna lower my accord i found a good deal on this website, ive bought stuff off them before so i kno their legit. but im not sure if this set up is any good, input is appreciated.

http://www.ilovebodykits.com/product...ith_Scale.html

 

i wouldn't recommend coil overs the ride quality SUCKS how low do you wanna go

 

look pretty cheap. id go with tokico struts with 2.5" hnr lowering springs looks mighty nice with some 17s.

 

To clear things up:

1) Those are not coilovers, those are sleeveovers.

2) The ride quality does not suck if you pair them correctly with struts, and pick a reputable brand and get good spring rates - IE you know what you're doing and have read the FAQ's

Buying no name sleeveovers from eBay or random websites that don't even list spring rates are not going to give you performance or ride quality.

 

Aren't the coil-sleeves? :p

Personally, I think those are the EXACT same ones you can buy on eBay for about $50. As Muffin said, you must pair them with the correct struts. If not, your struts will blow in no time at all.

 

in that case i dont think i will be getting those.

if i get a pair of Skunk 2 Springs that will lower my car 1.8 rear and 2 in the front do i need to change the struts?


i want to lower the car about 2 inches

 

If your going with a mild drop, you probably can get away with using your stock struts. If you want to lower it around 2" I suggest you getting a performance struts.

 

jeez I think you'll regret buying those... Never ever go with a no brand suspension, ride quality will be horrible... I've had both skunk2 and ground control sleeves with tokico shocks and ride quality was still sketchy...

 

what happens if i dont? im on a budget and i really want to lower the car, but i dont wanna do it if its gonna cost me more in the long run..

i have like 250$ to play with

i figured i would just get real good springs and mayb try my luck with the stock struts? like maybe a nice pair of eibachs and only go 1.3 or even the 1.7in drop sportlines?

thanks for all the help, i appreciate it

 

Your struts are how old now? Around 13 years old.

Let's put them in an incredibly stressful environment where they're forced to be at a different position then they're meant to. Less cushion from the spring so they take more hits.

Results? You blow your shocks after 200 miles. Then you have to replace them anyways.

Not to mention suspension is something that keeps you alive - why would you want to skimp on something like brakes, suspension or tires I'd never know. Skimping on those JDM mad tyte lights or spoilers I can see. But stuff that keeps your car safely on the road?

 

i understand that but its just ive read and heard of sooo many people using the eibach prokits with their stock struts and not having a problem?

i guess ill have to buy the struts now and wait till i have enough money to get the springs.. ughhh i have no patients

 

I am one of those people using stock shocks on Eibach Pro-Kits. IMO, you can just leave them, depending on how old you shocks are (in miles), but I suggest spending the extra money and change the shocks. It's worth it. Especially your time.

 

Skunk 2 springs will require not just new struts, but ones that can handle a 2" drop. Don't cheap out on suspention. KYB AGX and skunk2 racing springs will work for a budget suspention.

The Eibach Pro kit is only a 1.2" & 1.4" drop. That is why they are OK with stock struts. They would still perform better with adjustable struts. Anything over 1.75" it's suggested that you replace the stock struts. Ebach even states that on there website for their Sportline Extreme 1.8" & 1.7".

 

ok thanks i appreciate the help, ill prob just get the pro kit then

 

I have a huge issue. I installed some Koni Str.t (orange) sport struts on some neuspeed street coils. I am not looking for much lower than it already was, as it was chopped by the person before me, but I wanted to stay lower than OEM. I bought all the hardware and such and built the 4 strut assemblies but have one major issue. I cannot get the self locking nuts on top to torque. they have that little flat spot on top to clamp while trying to spin the nut, so its not the style with the hex in the middle. My front seem to be fine but the back, when the car is parked, has a gap that allows the bushing to slide up out of the seat when fully installed. It also seems to be hitting the back of the seat support framing that is right in front of the rear strut. anyone have any recommendations? I tried the whole run it down theory and the nut just spins? I'm wondering if it has just a plastic internal part that may be stripped?