delete

 

Here's the stroker kit I was looking to purchase also:

http://www.directtuning.com/store/pc-55688-242-bcr.aspx

82MM bore, Stock Sleeves, 11.?:1cr to yield around 11:5:1 for 93 Oct.

Hmm? input would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

To each person this means something different? 1 week, 1 month, 5 years. Please clarify.

The target of 260whp is a huge number and will need additional custom/expensive parts to get to the power level.

As for your build I have also been thinking about more power out of more displacement. Personally to improve your odds of better reliability I would get your block sleeved and bored out to 84, 85 or 86mm, then use a OEM LS crank, 89mm stroke. This should get you a really solid set-up, plus many other have done this. No need for custom length rods.

Your head with all JUN parts, good choice.
I am actually running RC 370's injectors now at 200whp @ 70% duty cycle. You many want a bit large for you power level. Look at ID725's.
IM Victor X cnc'd or a Magnus and a 68mm TB.
Compression ratio 12:1 on pump gas is very doable.
Don’t forget the header custom Hytech, SMSP, Bisi with a 3” collector.

 

Reliable wise.. for as long as possible. I'm trying to avoid the sleeving in my eyes that's more for boost. I'm just trying to make my '00 si in the low low 12's and be able to Daily it like I am now with it running a **** 13.9. I guess that's more of a clearer term I could have stated. I've had a 486WHP SOHC boost setup and a K20A swapped car so i'm pretty familiar with all motor/boost just not the stroker issue and B series.

I guess here's a broader question. I'd like to not have to mess with this engine for a couple years after building it. I'd like to get into the lowish 12's with my '00 SI w/ a all motor B-Series. Options I've been thinking about:

Option A: Bore 82MM Stock B18C Crank, P72 Rods, B16B Pistons, Stock sleeves, and yield around 12.1:1CR.

Option B: BC Stroker Kit, 82MM Bore, Stock Sleves, and yield around 11.5:1-12:1CR.

Headers are Hytech, Hondata s300 innovative mounts, and probably RC 370CC or 440CC injectors. I've got a Blox 70MM TB, and i'm getting a Skunk 2 IM portmatch to 70MM. I've also go stated before a full jun3 head.

Thanks for the help.

 

Subscribed. Im doing a similar build. I have a b20z block and am going with the eagle 2.2l stroker kit. I have a pr3 head with a nice port job, a port matched victor x intake manifold, and im unsure of the throttle body size (bought the car with this head). it also has skunk2 pro2 cams, unsure of the spring/retainer/valve setup, and a hy tech rep header. the kit is going to make around 10.9:1. im unsure what sort of numbers this will put down, but i want the same reliability out of it that you are looking for.

 

Neither of your options will get you to the 260whp you orginally posted that you where looking for.
A friend of mine with the the JUN goodies was at about 225whp years ago. With your planned build you might get to the 240whp mark.

Some people will say that a good engine builder with the strocker it will last a long time if it is well maintained.
I believe that the more OEM parts you can utilize and well maintain, this will last longer.
I just read about an Eagle 95mm stroker crank that had to have additional machining, about $350, so it would last longer. So in this case it wasn't just plug n' play.
B16B pistons, they make these in 82mm?

 

Yeah, I can get OEM copied pistons from my machine shop for $150. Its not really the HP i'm concerned about its when i randomly go to the track with my buddies. If i can yield 235WHP with the bore and B16B and run a 12.2 I'd go that route.

 

Good luck getting 2.2L out of 82mm bore. You'll need 84mm bore or more.
www.zealautowerks.com

 

generally speaking, the more stroke, the more side loading of the cylinders,the more wear on the cylinders,rings,and pistons and so on...
If you want the 95mm stroker to last like a factory engine does, Id bring the redline down. Your gonna have alot more mass moving around inside your engine compared to a stock bottom end B16. Proper machining/clearances/balancing all play a critical role in engine life...
Have you thought about a 92mm crank instead of a 95mm?

 

I'm really questioning the whole stroker now. I'm not sleeving the block and not worried about the displacement just basing the 2.2L off the add. More so I'm just going to end up getting B16B pistons and boring it to 82MM. What kind of track times can one look at with that setup?

 

What weight are you at in your SI? Do you plan on using slicks to get the best times, or just whatever you can cut with drag radials and/or street tires?

In my ITR, ~2650lbs with me, power numbers in sig below, The best I managed was a 13.3 @ 106 with a 1.9 60' on BFG drag radials.

You will probably need close to 250whp in a near-stock weight SI to reach mid-low 12's on drag radials/street tires.

Do you have E85 in your area? If so, your options can increase in terms of higher compression vs more displacement.

 

my trunk's guttet if that makes any sort of a difference. I've got rota C8's w/ BF Goodrich Gforce Na whatever the numbers are there pretty sticky but i'm looking to get some Mickey T's on my extra set. I've got no P/S or A/C so that takes off some weight. I had a K20A in a EM2, and i think my 2dr 01 weight more then the EK and it was just a stock K20a w/ DC headers and intake and i was around a 12.9 with **** tires. I had to be less then 220WHP because I believe the ITR K20A has like 220BHP. I'm just trying to be around a 12.2-5. What i've got in mind is just boring 40 over and throwing in B16B pistons. Net around 12.1:1 comp, getting a OBX LSD, and a 4.6-4.7 whatever the ITR FD is.

My setup is planned to be this:
B18C Block bored to 82MM w/ B16B Pistons.
B16 PNP Head w/ Jun3 Cams and Full Valve Train - On the car
OEM Valves - On the car
Hytech or Edelbrock Header
Skunk2 I/M Port matched to 70MM
Blox 70MM TB - Already got
RC 370CC or 440CC Injectors
AEM FPR and fuel Rail - On the car
Hondata S300 - Have a chipped ECU now i'd like hondata after owning a Kpro
Stock axles or possibly stage2
Innovative mounts
Skunk2 Mega power exhaust catless - On the car
Tien Flex coil overs - On the car
PWJDM Intake

Desired weight is around 2350-2400.. not sure what the stock weight is with 1 person in it going to look that up now.

 

You may have piston to valve clearance issues w/ those pistons and big cams. what head gasket are you going to run? remember high compession doesnt always mean more power, you have to take some timing away the higher compression, losing power. Its a double edged sword IMO. I think you need to do some more looking researching.... the CR will be much higher then 12:1 w/ those pistons.

Low to mid 12's on NA build isnt going to be simple either. my buddies boosted gsr makes 317whp and runs 12.3 on slicks.

 

yeah i can tell you you'll hit the pistons. my boy had ctr pistons in b16a block with a d.p.r head and jun 3's with valve train in....he didn't make it a mile from his house and than BAM....

just f.y.i....thats all...

 

hmm, I've read alot about them clearing and not.
My friends got a 350WHP CRX and it ran low 11's..
thing must be heavy as hell. My em2 ran 12's with a stock k..

 

full interior, w/ the spare tire and all that garbage and hes a 250 pounder. that car leavin the line was at least 2800 pounds id guess. my old lsv made 350whp and ran 11.5's consistently.

 

hope this helps a little, 95 stroker motors for street driven is a headache!!!!!

 

why is a 95 mm crank daily a head ache??? i have s2 pro 2 cams in a b16 head going on a b20z block with an eagle 2.2l kit. is p2v clearance going to be a large issue? the kit is supposed to make 10.9:1 comp and will be a daily for a few months.

 

bump bump bump to the power of bump

 

This thread is EPIC!

Honda-Tech 2010 Now with more Fail, dreamers and bullshit.

 

Your built is far fro 2.2L. I do have a 84.5 Bore X 97mm stroke and its not even a 2.2L...
2.18 exacly.
I agree a little wit Natutal Aspiration
The site is made to ask question if you dont know... not to say annyting about what you hear somewhere.
Youll be more proud of yourself saying to someone that, on a throttle 60mm your really OK to go 175FPT and 250WHP when 75% of big mouth, are going to tell you that you need to have at least 68mm for this power...
The rpm you gonna rev your motor, is not a question that you ask to people...
The rpm you gonna rev your motor, is a equation of: cams, headers, intake and ports...
260whp is possible on this small motor. but with very agressive cams that you gonna have the motor to reving hard.
If you know that, TQ make the HP when multiplicated by RPM.
so if you dont have TQ you need big RPM numbers to reach your HP
RPM = Ruine peaple motor...
ENJOY THE POWER

 

I love ****ing idiots like you.

And clearly I stated before I'm not trying to get a 2.2L. I know that 82MM bore will not net a 2.2L w/ the stroker kit. I've got two cars and I'd like my Honda to be around what my old K20A EM2 was with out the bitch of putting a K into an EK. I'm very informed on how a motor works and everything about it. I'm not an idiot just never worked with a B-series motor. Have had K's and boost before, only reason i'm asking ?'s. I know what a cam does and how everything works. JUST TRYING TO SEE IF SOMEONE HAS SOMETHING SIMILAR, and gain some knowledge on a B.

vid of my em2 with poo tires:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaBJNwgmuA4

My question was reliability and what net power i could look for. I'm just going with ITR pistons @ 82MM bore and putting the bitch back in. I'd rather dump $ into my evo 9.

But for those who want to continue to be a complete douche and post useless comments please do elsewhere, and **** you for future refrence.

 

Haha maybe you should.

I laugh because you simply do not have a grasp on what it will take to propel your EM1 to low 12's.

Your absolutely going to need that stroker kit and probably a sleeved motor as well to achieve a larger bore.

260 whp may or may not get you there depending on your cars weight, EM1's are considered to be decently heavy.

If you really wanted to build this motor, you would be on here reading what others have accomplished with similar goals and builds. Not making posts.

My best advise it to find a REAL SHOP who has an all motor car that is similar to yours and talk to them. Its going to take a lot more money than you think, even if you have no budget.

 

I took my motor to a fake shop.

 

I'm good B builder,
All my motors have been daily driven
I had a LSVTEC 203Whp type R cams and for a 1.8L this was the best power band to make a daily driven.
The motor i do run now. is more great in the city, but little slower on 1/4 mille.
But he is not camed yet... b18b cams, 150TQ 166Whp
with the Crower 404's the motor will be an BITCH for laping,DRAG and street driven.
i hope about 220Whp@7500rpm and 170tq@6200rpm

Now My recomandation if you want it.
would be to take a B20 at the first, I guess you want the b18c for the oil jets but it can be install in a B20 also... Girdl also.
Or put the budjet and get it sleeved at 85mm
THERE, with the crank it will be monster motor cause your JUN III are good cams for big hp at verry hy RPM.. but vtec motors for daily driven are not the best one. but on 85mm bore and 95 stroke. that will be better.
So -2cc dome for 11.4:1
pistons decked to 0.
Head gasket .038"
62mm throttke, Tri-Y headers, 3" exhaust
If you get 260Whp. it is able of 12.0@114mph on 2100 pounds i would say.
the more often you pass over 8000rpm, the more faster the wear is going on.
Your rod ratio will not be a nice one.
these things wear, but make power.