My right rear brake is seizing up and so I'm driving but the car is braking a bit. So I suppose I need new calipers and I figure I need new pads anyways. So Im thinking of going with Hawks because its the only brand I've heard of honda guys using.

Is that what I should get? Should I do all 4 sides or just the rears (discs) and around how much is it for brake pads and calipers on all sides or just the rears?

I really dont know much when it comes to this topic but can I do this myself on an afternoon?


The fronts will seize soon... So I figure I'll do them as well. I hope its not too expensive for all this.

This is for my EG Si.

Any help is appreciated, sorry for the noob questions

Thanks bros!

 

since your 92-95 eg civic si's right rear brake caliper is seizing, i would advise you to inspect your pads. get the wheels off, inpect the right and left rear brake pads then compare them. when uneven pad wear occurs, it's an indication of a caliper not working correctly. next, i would try to source where the seizing, binding or locking is occurring. i would remove the caliper (they're held on by two bolts) & push the piston back. in your case, since we're discussing a rear disc caliper, you'll have to turn the piston in and have the e-brake in the OFF position. seized parts are the result of improper service or lack of lube.

1. check for rust on the caliper piston
2. look at the condition of the seal (or o-ring) around the caliper piston.
3. after the piston is all the way in, push the brake pedal & inspect the piston once again for rust
4. also check for ripped rubber grease boots on the brackets. this part, which holds the bracket and caliper together on a bolt should slide & spin freely (can be broken free w/ breaker bar)
5. with the rear of your eg civic up, put the e-brake is in the ON position & try to turn each rear wheel.
6. make sure the e-brake cable moves back-and-forth freely...if there's binding, pick up a can of silicone spray

i would repeat the same procedure for the other calipers since you mentioned you believe your fronts might be fried too. inspect your pads before you throw new parts in the mix when you should consider fixing the problem first; which can be accomplished all in an afternoon.

 

Ill be tackling this Monday, I got me some duralast pads and sliders and grease. Hope I can get it done! Thanks a lot for the detailed info bro, I appreciate it!

 

anytime HBKFanatic

 

in for updates

 

Hey man, sorry forgot to update.

Finally got a small window of time where the weather hit 35* so I was able to change my pads on the right rear side yesterday.

I only did that side because I didnt have slides for the left rear and the pads on that were okay so I'll leave that for when I get better weather.

First time doing brake work, the bolts came out easier than I thought, but still needed a lot of force to break free.

I rented a tool from autozone to push the caliper piston back in. That piston would not go back in haha. I broke the bleeder screw loose and barely any fluid came out ?? but then I pulled the handbrake and with a lot of force managed to get the piston back in. The brake reservoir was open too so Im not sure why the fluid didnt really come out.

The old pads was toast! Heres my boy Thiaggo doing work on his birthday ! :bang:

 

hbk, nice pics! it's cold out there, northeast got slammed last week with plenty of snow; good to see you and your boy thiaggo puttin in werk.

those pads look toast pic #2.

i spy grease on the back of the pad, ":thumbs up"; can't tell from the pic #3, but make sure those clips are nice & clean (brake cleaner of just sandblast em) and put a dab of grease on those clips too.


just wondering if you had a chance to go through the procedure & inspect the condition of your rear caliper since you said they were seized:


http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_p...onGroupID=1619

did pins (#17 & #32 on link above) move freely?

any culprits found in the list above the link? (ripped boots, ripped seals, etc)

i'm interested if there is uneven pad wear comparing the left and right side pads; please post up pics when you're done with the other side.



* regarding the bleeder being open and no fluid coming out:

did you have someone pumping the brake while it was open?

or

did you just turn the wrench to open it w/ no brake pump?

i would fully inspect those rear calipers when you switch the pads out on the other side. compare the pads for uneven wear. look for lock'd up slider pins or ripped boots; and def grease those pins too. once we establish the condition of the rear caliper assemblies, i would move onto the fronts (providing that there is NO seizure and those pins on the grease boots slide freely). once all 4 corners are a-ok, i would get a bottle of brake fluid, bleed the entire system until it's flushed n freshhhhhhhh

 

Hey man,

I had to do my moms pads so I went and rented the caliper piston compression tool from Autozone to push the piston back in while I was there.

Im doing the left rear pads in a few minutes now that I have the tool, grease, sliders, pad.

The pins (#17,#32) came out fine if I remember correctly. They were greased but not too well I think? Im pretty sure theres uneven pad wear, because the right rear was toast as you see and if the other one was just as bad it would be making noise too but it doesnt.

However Im sure they are still low and probably at the lowest usable spec. which is like .06 mm or something, I forget what the spec was.

Bleeder screw:

Yeah man I just got it loose, and I was expecting the piston would go back in easily after the bleeder was open but no one pumped the brakes, thats why no fluid came out haha.

I should of known this too considering I bled my brake system 2 months ago.

I believe that everything is in fine order except the pistons. The seals look okay if I remember right, it was the piston that seemed to be rusted. Especially when I compare it to my moms 2004 Altima which had no rust.

Ill do it up and Ill post pictures after I'm done.

Finally I really appreciate your support, brakes are very important and I didnt want to mess with it if it wasnt easy but it is after I looked at it. Its pretty straight forward actually! Im glad I have discs anyways haha!

 

So I went to do it and 1 of the pin bolts stripped off. I tried so much stuff, hours later Im tired, my hands are bruised up, and nothing has worked. ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

 

sorry to hear one of the pin bolts stripped

this is on the left-side rear caliper?

did this happen while removing #38?


(#17) PIN A, oem honda part # 43235-SD2-931 $7.25
(#32) PIN B, oem honda part # 43262-S84-A51 $2.33
(#38) BOLT, FLANGE (8X22), oem honda part # 45240-SC2-003 $3.34

 

Yeah, upper #38. There isn't enough space for my ratchet to fit in there to use the bolt extraction socket. Both bolts are pretty tight but It happened because I was turning the wrong way, tightning instead of loosing it up. Now it's pretty much trying to find a way to get a good grip on the bolt. The e brake assembly is in the way of the ratchet head which is unfortunate.

I spun the disk before I started working on it and it was making noise on the bottom of the pad and since that's where the seizing occurs the disk has a few grooves on the lower part. I'm rested now and ready to deal with it. Very frustrated yesterday haha

 

Here you can see the grooves in the disc.

 

hbkfanatatic...sorry to hear that left rear caliper is giving you so much trouble.

from the pics, #38, that bolt's done. i would try to remove the bolt with a good set of vise grips; tap the handle with a rubber mallet to loosen. if that doesn't work, you going to have cut it off with an angle grinder or drill it out. it's common to see seized or weathered bolts since they are alays exposed to the elements; especially on exhaust and suspension parts. the #1 reason why i clean & lube the threads of bolts with oil & grease