Cutting ebay springs
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,622
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From: UK, Birmingham, West mids, England
Spare me the lectures about safety, I am aware of how dangerous this is (i have done it before), this will be a temporay measure on a car i will rarely drive fast.
I just wanted to know if there is a set way of doing this, or if anyone has done this with good results.
share your experiences
I just wanted to know if there is a set way of doing this, or if anyone has done this with good results.
share your experiences
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 0
From: UK, Birmingham, West mids, England
Haha^
Im not a chav, although that is what a chav would do to his nova or corsa.
Iv had two dd's on chopped ebays but this is my main car atm so i was wondering if anyone has a good way of doing it, looks like i'l do it my own way.
heres my car btw, i can assure you i am not a chav:
(engine is out as im reconning it, nearly done, just waiting on gaskets)

Im not a chav, although that is what a chav would do to his nova or corsa.
Iv had two dd's on chopped ebays but this is my main car atm so i was wondering if anyone has a good way of doing it, looks like i'l do it my own way.
heres my car btw, i can assure you i am not a chav:
(engine is out as im reconning it, nearly done, just waiting on gaskets)

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You don't NEED to ride low, stop being a chav (I'm sorry but only a chav would lack the mental capacity to see exactly how bad an idea this is) and buy some proper springs.
Kids over in the US can get away with it because the roads are smooth and straight, try this on twisty, potholed, speed bumped UK and you will crash. And to be honest you'll deserve it.
Kids over in the US can get away with it because the roads are smooth and straight, try this on twisty, potholed, speed bumped UK and you will crash. And to be honest you'll deserve it.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
What is the current drop on the eBay springs? If it's not too low (less than 2" drop) then you could safely cut 2 coils at the most and those Illumina shocks should still handle the increased spring rate and lower ride height.
Although if you have progressive-rate springs with several dead coils on one end when fully loaded, I would recommend cutting off dead coils, as this will have ZERO impact on the spring's loaded rate.
However, also keep in mind that if the dead coils are at the top of the spring, then cutting off coils means you won't have the flattened coil end to seat properly against the shock top hat. It's pretty important that you leave that flattened coil end in place.
I cut dead coils off the rear lowering springs of my old car (old Camry) and it was fine. No impact on spring rate or ride quality, just ~1/2" lower ride height. I used a Dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cut the coil, while a friend held a wet rag above it and dripped water over the wheel while cutting. Then we dunked the cut end in a bucket of water, dried it off, and painted the coil end to keep rust away.
If you think about what you're doing, and do it well (not just cut OEM springs on stock shocks, that's the WRONG way to lower a car), then you'll be fine.
Cutting any spring is never advisable, especially when you can buy springs with the correct length and a known rate. The rate will increase after they are cut and this will ask the dampers/shocks to work harder.
If you don't care about the spring rate or the relationship between spring and shock then have at it.
...or you could calculate the new rate; k = F/x you would first calculate or know the original spring rate. Cut the spring and then place a known weight on the spring, measure deflection - how much it compressed - then divide the weight you placed on it by the distance it compressed. This is the new rate. I hope I got that right...haven't done that in a while. Then you should check your damper's specs and make sure they are able to control the new rate.
If you don't care about the spring rate or the relationship between spring and shock then have at it.
...or you could calculate the new rate; k = F/x you would first calculate or know the original spring rate. Cut the spring and then place a known weight on the spring, measure deflection - how much it compressed - then divide the weight you placed on it by the distance it compressed. This is the new rate. I hope I got that right...haven't done that in a while. Then you should check your damper's specs and make sure they are able to control the new rate.
Last edited by meb58; Jan 26, 2010 at 07:08 AM.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Cutting any spring is never advisable, especially when you can buy springs with the correct length and a known rate. The rate will increase after they are cut and this will ask the dampers/shocks to work harder.
If you don't care about the spring rate or the relationship between spring and shock then have at it.
...or you could calculate the new rate; k = F/x you would first calculate or know the original spring rate. Cut the spring and then place a known weight on the spring, measure deflection - how much it compressed - then divide the weight you placed on it by the distance it compressed. This is the new rate. I hope I got that right...haven't done that in a while. Then you should check your damper's specs and make sure they are able to control the new rate.
If you don't care about the spring rate or the relationship between spring and shock then have at it.
...or you could calculate the new rate; k = F/x you would first calculate or know the original spring rate. Cut the spring and then place a known weight on the spring, measure deflection - how much it compressed - then divide the weight you placed on it by the distance it compressed. This is the new rate. I hope I got that right...haven't done that in a while. Then you should check your damper's specs and make sure they are able to control the new rate.
I know next to nothing about progressive rate springs. If they were linear I would suggest cutting a little from both ends since there is very little rate change - 1/2 coil each end - but make sure they seat properly!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
OE-style springs (OEM or aftermarket) will not seat properly if anything is cut from the top. I know that for a fact.
It can be done but the process requires time and care. If you remove too mcuh of either the top or bottom coil you run the risk of snapping the coil. So, if you remove a little from both ends and fashion a perch that molds to the shape of the coil and then fit this perch into the stock perch you've pretty much avoided all the problems...but I still think it's easier to buy new springs. But if you have time, patience and ingenuity, and no money, give it a shot!
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
LOL...you have some fancy high dollar exterior parts on your car yet you wish to skimp on one of the key components, (suspension). 
Arc Winglets - $$$
CTR Headlights - $$$
JDM Folding Mirrors - $$$
JDM Window Visors - $$$
CTR Front Lip, (I'm guessing it's real) - $$$
BBS, (mesh wheels of some kind with cheapo trendy stretched tires) - $$$

Arc Winglets - $$$
CTR Headlights - $$$
JDM Folding Mirrors - $$$
JDM Window Visors - $$$
CTR Front Lip, (I'm guessing it's real) - $$$
BBS, (mesh wheels of some kind with cheapo trendy stretched tires) - $$$






