I am of course sticking with all motor and I am going naturally aspirated.

Here is what I want:

$4000 B18c5 Complete Change Over
$2600 Honda Civic B18 Series (A, B, C) and B20B (CR-V) 87mm Bore, 95mm Stroke, Net 2.26L
$700 Skunk2 Pro 2 Camshaft
$300 SKunk2 Pro Camgears
$200 Skunk2 RETAINERS
$300 PRO SERIES VALVE SET B-SERIES STOCK SIZE / HIGH COMP
$350 B18C1-5 1.6/1.8L DOHC VTEC PRO-SERIES VALVE SPRING SET
$300 1994-01 GSR(B18C1)
$300 70mm BILLET THROTTLE BODY D,B,H,F SERIES ENGINE
$150 ARP Head Studs (B18C / B16B )
$140 AEM fuel rail b18c
$350 Hasport Mounts

Anything else I should think about? Other than the price of boring which I will need to make a few phone calls on.

 

New question to follow along with the original stuff.

If I bore out over 1.8L to 2.0 or 2.26 Will I run the risk of not being able to use normal fuel and would I be limited to race fuel. This is a DD build and I just head about that. Can anyone give some clarification?

 

$4000 B18c5 Complete Change Over
$2600 Honda Civic B18 Series (A, B, C) and B20B (CR-V) 87mm Bore, 95mm Stroke, Net 2.26L - WASTE OF MONEY, AND WHY IF YOU HAVE A B18C?
$700 Skunk2 Pro 2 Camshaft - GET PRO1
$300 SKunk2 Pro Camgears - CHOSE DIFFERENT BRAND, SOME PEOPLE HAVE HAD FAILURES
$200 Skunk2 RETAINERS
$300 PRO SERIES VALVE SET B-SERIES STOCK SIZE / HIGH COMP - SKIP THESE
$350 B18C1-5 1.6/1.8L DOHC VTEC PRO-SERIES VALVE SPRING SET
$300 1994-01 GSR(B18C1) - WTF IS THIS?
$300 70mm BILLET THROTTLE BODY D,B,H,F SERIES ENGINE - TOO BIG, STOCK IS FINE
$150 ARP Head Studs (B18C / B16B ) - YOU DON'T NEED THESE, WASTE
$140 AEM fuel rail b18c - DON'T GET THIS
$350 Hasport Mounts

You need to do a lot more research before you do anything else.

 

Not sure what some of those things are, but if you're doing a full build, top to bottom, you might as well start with a cheaper B18C1 engine than a B18C5.

 

It is hard to find good info on what to get vs what not to get. Most forum posts are boasting about their dyno tuned new build. A lot of those ideas came from a couple of B-Series books I got from amazon. They have really good info on how to take them apart and dyno charts with diff after market parts, but what is hard to find is tips from people who have done trial and error. I have no idea what would be a waste of money or what would improve. All I want is a b18c1 or c5 that gets 250+whp for a daily driver in my 1993 honda del sol. I am trying to ask tons of questions all over the Web because I am trying to get this project started this summer.

Sorry for venting on your forums, but man it is frustrating going from no knowledge to tyring to cram whatever you can find for months and still know nothing. =(

 

If 250+ DD whp is your goal then I recommend you do a turbo LS or GS-R. All motor can get you there on a B-series, but it's a long and expensive road, and not suitable for DD.

 

It could be a daily driver in a B20 format but VERY expensive. Boost may be a better option for you in the long run. I'd seriously talk to a reputable shop about having them build the motor for you since this is all to new to you to be spending huge amounts of money on and not have a good idea what you're doing.

 

Buy a stock B18C1, hang a hair dryer on it and get decent engine management (like Neptune). You will have great gas milage when you are not driving aggressively and it will be a more reliable daily driver than a 250+ whp NA build.

You might even consider a mild FI D build.

Best of luck with your project.

 

If you really want to stay NA it will cost you a ton. Look up cost on a sleeved block lets say 85mm or 86mm. Then a stroker crank 92mm maybe even 95mm. Then the head, this will have to be sent out to a top notch shop to get the power levels you want. A custom very expensive header would be needed as well, 3” collector. With a block, crank, headwork and header at least $5000-$7000 maybe even more.
200~215 would be more realistic for you.
And there is a post around here that showed the Pro2 over the Pro1 by at least 7whp. Stick with the Pro2.
Do a bit more homework. Since it is your DD you want it to be reliable so don't skimp.

What's funny about your post is that I am planning a reliable race motor, (3 years between rebuilds 20-30 races a year, drag) and 250 isn't even my target, 230whp is.

 

If you do the math, for 12-15% parasitic loss, 250 whp = 284-294 flywheel hp. Nearly 300 hp is a lot to ask of an N/A 2.0 L engine. If you set your sights 'lower' you could easily get 210-220 whp (~250 flywheel) on a B18C1 with ITR pistons, S2P2 cams and decent breather mods.

If you do decide you want more power, however, FI is really the best way to go.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

Well I am going to go with B18CG ITR and maintain the naturally aspirated build. I honestly don't think that after upgrading pistons, cams, camgears, intake, and headers it should be that hard to reach 240-250whp, but that is just me.

 

I'm sure you can find a dyno operator somewhere who'll put in a 120% correction factor for you for an extra $50, but failing that I think you'll find that the laws of physics are harder to push around.

 

I know from what you guys are saying that it will be probably impossible to have a Pump Gas, DD, all motor, 250whp B18C5 in my old EG1 Del Sol, but it is a goal to shoot for and I am taking a year off from military to college to work on this as my hobby, so it is not that I don't recognize this as an unreachable goal, but it is a goal none the less.

 

We are not saying it is impossible. We are just saying it will cost a lot of money.
An 86x95 block with 12:1 comp or more, a head that flows 300cfm with Pro3 cams, Victor X IM and custom header. Maybe yes.
A bit more time studying high power builds will help also.

 

Like these guys said, expensive. I hope you have deep pockets. FI is definitely the most cost effective option.

 

you suck at life 88hatchy

 

If you want 250whp you might as well just go K series. For the amount of money it will take you to get a B to that level you will be in K territory anyway. Also there is no reason to start with an ITR motor if you are just going to replace everything during the build, the GSR will cost the same to build and be cheaper to start with. The ITR is a great motor but if you plan to do more than cams with it I think it would be a waste.

 

you suck your mom's dick ohsnapzafingcu...

 

you do realize you are replacing most everything that makes the ITR much more expensive than the gsr?i.e. just start with the gsr

 

well i have a turbocharged b18c1 del sol that i picked up for about $3500. already having problems with it. its makin a weird clunk noise

 

any ideas of what that might be??? hondas are new to me