Ok, I'm an enthusiastic beginner when it comes to Honda mechanics.
I just bought a nice 93 hatch with a b20b and GSR head. Here are the specs as described by the guy I bought it from:

has a b20b4 block with a obd1 gsr head and intake manifold.
aem tru time cam gears and stage 1 cams.
aem oil catch can.
gsr transmission.
arp studs and head bolts.
golden eagle conversion for the block and vtec head.
p72 ecu

I bought the car with a pretty bad rod knock. To keep things economical I plan to buy a JDM non-vtec enginefor $550. The car runs well other than the rod knock.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CRV-Engine-JDM-B20B-DOHC-2-0L-Non-Vtec-B20_W0QQitemZ230423482701QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a64f514d

Are there any problems just switching the existing head over to the "new" block?
Any other insight for the Honda newb?
I appreciate any help on this. I hope I'm in the correct forum.

 

Just thought I'd add: I'm building this back just to be a fun daily driver that I'll commute to work in. Just very occasional redline.

 

Not even its a lego issue, and there r a few b bottem ends to choose from. Integra ls 90-01 is your best bet cheap and ez 2 come by. the integra gsr is realy great but good luck finden them 4 cheap! As 4 the b20 crv its up 2 u man youll get great power but got no ballz 4 sleeves ive cracked a few of these already not saying der bad but high revs just kill em. Good 4 occasional redline though.

 

A couple more questions:
1. Any issues with valves touching the stock pistons?
2. How do I know what size timing belt to use?

My shopping list:
1. JDM B20 Motor (using just the short block)
2. New timing belt
3. New water pump
4. MLS head gasket (is this the best to use?)

Again I'm trying to do a good job on a low budget. I'm not worried much about performance. Looks like I can do a fresh block with the above items for under $1000.

Am I missing anything?

 

1. if you are using stock cams, you'll be ok. if you want to use aftermarket ones, you'll have to notch the pistons.

2. timing belt matches the water pump.

 

I'm using aem tru time cam gears and stage 1 cams.

I'm not sure what timing belt matches the water pump means.

 

ls timming belt.

 

use whatever timing belt matches the water pump you're using. ls/b20 water pump = ls/b20 timing belt. vtec pump = gsr/itr belt.

 

Anyone know for sure about valve piston clearance with stage one cams?

 

what block are using first of all?

 

I was thinking B20B block because that's what's currently on it. But I'm trying to get this running spending as little $ as possible. After doing some more reading it looks as thought the GSR head valves will hit the pistons in a stock B20B block. I'd be happy with a B18B block. Is there still the same issue with valve/piston clearance on the B18B block?

My goal is to just use a JDM motor and do nothing but swap the GSR head and of course the Golden Eagle VTEC conversion kit. I dont want to get into changing pistons.

 

B18b block be better and is boostable later on as well. There are low & high compresion crv blocks b20b4 is the low 1. b20z and jdm b20b are a little higher. crv sleeves heat up fast though, And yes the high comp crv to gsr head will clear fine as long as it dont get any forced induction. Moneys tight everywere so try and rebuild what you already have, and if your cars runnen still it should be rebuildable!

 

After some reading I think I will use the B18. The problem is I don't have the skills for a complete rebuild. I can get a JDM
b18 pretty reasonably. Then I can just switch heads which I can do. So even with the stage one cams valve clearance won't be a problem with the b18?

 

Hell no it will clear at ease! cams arent gonna give you a whole lot of power, but will be a little gain. If u just want to go ls block it will be ez and about a days work. Put some boost on that ls vtec with stg 1 cams when your done later on, Youll love it.

 

First where are you located?
Second you need to identify what cams you have in the motor, Stage 1 isnt much information as every brand is a little different.

Do you have a garage or one you have available for use? You may be better off rebuilding what you have and be able to keep it within your budget.

Pistons
Rods
Bearings

Have your block honed and the machine shop can press the pistons on the rods, you should be able to find a new crank for about $100

B20 will be you best option as long as you have intentions of having your engine tuned.
I have herd many horror stories form shady JDM engine importers H-motors is more expensive but you normally get a better quality engine.

 

I'm still leaning towards a JDM b18b. As long as the valve clearance isn't an issue then that will be the easiest and probably the cheapest. I'm not sure which cams are in the motor as I bought it the way it is. I know it has AEM cam gears. I can get a JDM motor and transmission for $1100. I can sell the head and transmission and bring the cost down. Then it's just an easy head swap. I'd do the B20 but it seems the valve clearance is an issue on those.

NA, I appreciate your suggestions. But just the parts and the machine work will probably cost more then the JDM motor. And I don't have the experience for that extent of work.

 

The JDM B18B or any non vtec motor will have the same exact valve clearance problems.

 

The guy who posted the advise above has NO IDEA what he is talking about and seems to be spreading his crap advise all over the board.

 

I guess my cheapest option is buying JDM B18B engine and tranny for $1100. Selling low mileage GSR head and tranny and Golden Eagle conversion kit for $600 or $700 to offset the cost. And still have a snappy hatch. Easy swap. Goodbye VTEC.

Another noob question.

What ECU do I need for the B18B?

Oh and bye the way NA, thanks for your input. It is much appeciated. I just need to do this on the cheep and don't really care that much for horsepower as reliability. A reliable hatch with it's GSR interior (and I love a 92 - 95 hatch) with a liitle snap will be ok for my daily driver. I have a CRX with a non-vtec LS swap and am happy with it (use it for autocross). I guess the only way to a VTEC conversion is upgraded pistons and I'm not gonna go there now as net expense is most important. If I go the JDM B18 route I can net out at $500 for a fresh motor (barring a crappy JDM deal).

I'm brand new to this forum and appreciate all the help!!

 

 

I dont think you even work on your own crap. Ive built more motors than you can imagine. What now your gonna try to tell us all a gsr head will hit valves on a b20 block naturaly aspirated dumb!

 

I'm not quite sure you can complete a sentence that makes any sense. Ive proven myself on here more times and for quite a bit longer than you have. I do not want to load this thread with crap, If you have ANY proof of your claims feel free to prove me wrong.

 

I'm not pretending to know but....

I've done quite a bit of searching, and everything I've found says that valve clearance is a close thing. Everything I've read says at least to clay test before starting any B20b with any vtec head.

fasthatch, I'm not doubting your experience because I don't know. I'm just telling you what 3 hours of searching and reading has told me. Nothing compares to actual experience. I'm not dissing you. I CAN"T put this engine together and have it not work. So the dissapointing non-vtec option seems to be safe path. If I was sure I could take a B20B (which I can get for $550 delivered) and slap my GSR head on it with 0 risk of problems I'd do it in a heartbeat. I have no idea of what cams are in the head I have now other than I've been told they are stage 1, and I know they have AEM cam gears.

 

Its not about a sentence, Just cause your around longer doesnt mean your smarter than me. Well prove me wrong since you want to hate.

 

So you're saying you've built B20B's w/ Vtec heads, wrapped 'em up to 7K with no piston/valve contact reliably? I respect experience... Precision and science rule.