HELP! ITR wouldn't hold an idle this morning
Thanks for looking.
Get in my car to head to work this morning, turn the car on and it sounds like it is having a hard time cranking. Engine starts then sputters and dies, repeat and give it a little gas and no such luck. Smelled fuel when opening the hood, car felt like it had 2 spark plugs out.
About a year ago I changed the cap, rotor, ignitor, and coil with OEM honda parts. I was advised the wires inside the distributor should be changed but I took a shortcut and didn't change them. Could I possibly be paying the price now?
Thanks for your help and suggestions. I had to borrow the wife's car so I didn't get a chance to check for codes.
Get in my car to head to work this morning, turn the car on and it sounds like it is having a hard time cranking. Engine starts then sputters and dies, repeat and give it a little gas and no such luck. Smelled fuel when opening the hood, car felt like it had 2 spark plugs out.
About a year ago I changed the cap, rotor, ignitor, and coil with OEM honda parts. I was advised the wires inside the distributor should be changed but I took a shortcut and didn't change them. Could I possibly be paying the price now?
Thanks for your help and suggestions. I had to borrow the wife's car so I didn't get a chance to check for codes.
Sorry not really much help here. Anyways, my LS did this a couple times and after just letting it sit for about half an hour it started up but would not hold an idle, after driving it for maybe 10 minutes (having to keep my foot on the gas while idling) the problem would go away and it wouldn't happen again for quite a while. I dont think it ever happened again after I changed the plugs but I didn't have the car long after that. I would say to pull them and take a look at them. If you have a DMM you could check the wires for resistance too. They should all be close to the same, I'm not sure what the spec is but I'm sure a search could pull that up.
I think you are on the right track checking for codes, I dont think I would want to drive an R if it doesnt want to run. An LS is a little bit of a different story, but if you need to limp it to a mechanic you could try it.
I think you are on the right track checking for codes, I dont think I would want to drive an R if it doesnt want to run. An LS is a little bit of a different story, but if you need to limp it to a mechanic you could try it.
my buddy's jeep had a crappy battery last week. when the battery got low enough, the computer lost it's idle RPM memory and would no longer idle after we jumped it with my integra.
i inspected the throttle cable and nothing looked moved or broken, so we got on the internet and found out about the low battery losing idle thing.
the fix on the jeep was to hold the gas where you want it to idle for about 3 minutes. we drove it to the parts store and got a new battery.
just an idea. i have no idea if this can happen to integras, but it sounds similar.
i inspected the throttle cable and nothing looked moved or broken, so we got on the internet and found out about the low battery losing idle thing.
the fix on the jeep was to hold the gas where you want it to idle for about 3 minutes. we drove it to the parts store and got a new battery.
just an idea. i have no idea if this can happen to integras, but it sounds similar.
i know for sure thats not applicable to accords as i have intentially reset my car's idle memory a few times. i would assume that the same goes for integras. could be worth a try though.
good to know. batteries are deceitful and worth a test. the jeep's would hold enough charge after the jump to start on its own, but wouldn't stay running.
Problem turned out to be the main relay (which I wasn't aware was a wear item). Problem solved and ITR is back up and running!
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I never like to see any honda down. Especially an ITR!

