Got first, second and third gears fixed on my 2006 honda civic si bc the person that had the car before me ran the hell out of it or whatever they did to it. My main concern was that I couldn't change first to second while past 6k rpms. I just got my car back today and it changes gears so much better. I still for some reason cannot get into 2nd at like 7k rpms??? I push the clutch all the way in and I still dunno what the deal is. I thought I would of had this problem solved with all new gear sets. Anyone know what could be the deal?? thanks

 

Take it back to the dealer. They warranty their work. Tell them the issue and they should fix it

 

Ya that's what I'm going to do but just sucks considering they had my car monday through friday and the gears are good when driving casual. It just doesn't make sense for the gear to like close while at high rpms. It will only go in when the rpms go back to bout 6k or lower. Anyone else have this problem? Looks like if someone is messing with me I'll just have to do a good ole third kick from 2nd the 3rd gear

 

I'd say maybe bad synchros but I am just guessing. Does it grind at all? What about sitting still for awhile and then trying to shove it in first real quick?

 

It grinded first to second past 6k rpms prior to honda supposedly fixed the issue. It no longer grinds first to second at high rpms but it just simply wont go in. I left off the clutch and it just revs bc it just sits in neutral. The car drives good other than that but its driven me crazy bc I want it to be perfect. You mean downshift or just sitting in neutral and changing to first fast?

 

the syncros are bad. or they didnt replace them

 

Would it be just the 2nd gear syncro? If a syncro is bad does the gear changing act normal until its at high rpms? Bc its completely normal until I get high rpms into 2nd

 

a worn synchro will do that. as the synchro gets worse the grinding will start at lower rpm.

 

Good luck with the repair. If the previous owner beat the tranny up that bad, hows the rest of the car?

 

Do you test drive vehicles before you buy them?

 

k thanks for the help guys. The car is flawless other than that. Ya I test drove it but it was my first stick so everything was new to me. I took my buddy with me that has a rsx-s and he said everything felt good but he didnt red line it with the car employee with us

 

The Same thing happened to me today!
I did a 1st gear pull and as usual my 2nd gear grinded when i tried to shift around 8k
I thought everything was normal! But after I drove around for awhile i approached a red light and i tried to downshift into 2nd and it didnt go in! it just grinded like crazy!
So i took off from the light and i tried to shift from 1st to 2nd at about 3500 and it wouldnt go in either!
It would feel like it was in neutral!
But after Driving around pissed for about 5 minutes and a little power shifting! It didnt do it anymore! lol
The gears feel a little smoother now lol!
I gotta admit was scared shitless though lol
But ive never done any work to my tranny!
Good Luck On fixing It!

 

Finally someone has an issue that I have lol. Jk it sucks right? Hopefully your still in warranty bc honda like I said supposedly fixed 1st 2nd 3rd for me but I still cant get in on high rpms. They said it was a one time courtesy fix so I mean the 2nd gear is still not right. Should I take it back still and say fix the damn thing? I'm sure its going to be annoying for them but o well. I don't want them to be like o well why you driving the car at high rpms and Ill just be like, its my car I can drive it how I want

 

lol it sucked for the 5 minutes it was happening! lol But now its fixed and like new! lol You should take it back to them and tell those ***** suckas to fix it! its not your fault they did a shitty job! and they should fix it no matter what! and it shouldnt matter how you drive it! like you said its your car!

 

So what if the employee was with you. It's not their car so most of them don't mind. And if they do I just go somewhere else. I usually just redline it or I ask if they mind. If anything is going to fail I want it to happen on the test drive.

So now you learned a lesson: Tach out the first three gears on a test drive. You are not beating it, just running it through its paces.

 

When I took the demo Si out for a drive, I was kinda nervous to get on it. The salesman with me pretty much made me rip it lol. Then he made me hop in the passenger seat and he ripped it through some twisties. I pretty much knew I was already buying it, but he sold me...lol.

 

Actually, this is not a problem that is completely Honda's fault... I had the same problem. I'll give you the actual problem, and the solution.

When you step on it , and shift it from 1st to 2nd at high rpm (especially past 6k rpm), you're at the highest torque the engine produces. This creates a rocking movement on the actual engine. The motor mounts are basically moved to their maximum. Because the engine is torqued (twisted) so much, the shifter cables are also loosened. Even though according to your gearbox, you're in 2nd when you shift, the actual shifter cables did not shift the transmission (or didnt shift it enough) to put you in to 2nd. During the brief moment that you shift, you let go of the engine. The engine rocks back and forth and there is a window of opportunity to "mishift" or not put into 2nd gear correctly because its physically not possible. I bet if you go up to 6000rpm, but dont get up there by flooring it, just go up there slowly. You'll be able to shift smooth as butter.

The solution: Stiffer motor mounts. Cheap (and most effective) solution is the DIY motor mount injections with window weld in the top and bottom dogbone motor mounts. (The bottom motor mount is a bitch, and I needed a 2ft breaker bar to even budge it)

Our engines have 5 motor mount points. The dogbone mounts are the ones that need to be filled (2 out of 3 of them). You can fill in the 3rd (front), but its just going to increase noise, but not really do too much as far as reduced engine rocking goes.

DIY link: http://www.kseries-tech.com/forums/v....php?f=16&t=57

 

If at 30, or 40% throttle, you cant shift into 2nd gear, then there are of course, more inherent problems, and it could be syncros. But I'm willing to bet money that its just a case of needed motor mounts.

 

shitty synchros = shitty shifts.

 

^ I agree

Wildabeast I had almost triple the torque on my Si so I filled my mounts. But before I filled them my front one was ripped to **** but that was the only one....not the dog bones. I shifted fine, no grinding and no binding and that was with a ripped front mount and no ingalls stiffy.

So more than likely syncros

These motors are so far from torquey in stock form so to say that its the stock mounts causing hard shifting is silly.

 

This car is completely stock so I dunno why torque would have this issue on the mounts. Are you saying they could be loose/broken? Im still trying to understand everything you said in a nut shell wildabeast. Say it is the the mounts, will honda do this for me bc so far they have be pretty good at honoring their warranty(if the issue was actually corrected). How much did you pay for the motor mounts? I talked to a women when I picked up my car and not the guy I have been talking to about all these issues bc he was off. Im like 90 percent sure they change the syncro but ill confirm that tomorrow when I talk to the guy

 

its actually a flaw by design. The inside of the tq mounts is just a 2 thin pieces of rubber suspending a the bolt in air. It's done for comfort reasons, and so even though we dont have "a lot of torque", its enough to rock the engine.

Its nothing that warranty will replace because there's nothing "wrong" with it. They are acting as they should, they just dont have enough material in them for power shifts. (Ive noticed there are small differences between people's motor mounts, and some are ok, while others dont have as much rubber in them)

Do my test. Get up to 6000rpm (or even 7) slowly, stay at that rpm for a a few seconds (requires a little dexterity with the foot pedal), and then shift normally (no power shifting, dont let the rpm drop to 0 and then shift, blah blah blah).

If you have no problems, its the motor mounts (or lack of filling). If you have problems, its the syncros.

 

So ball park how much is this motor mount filling and everything going to cost me if its not the syncros? I live in an apartment so I couldnt do any of this myself. Whats my best bet on doing this? By the way I can change 2nd to 3rd no problem at high rpms

 

^it costs 14 dollars for duramax 40/40 epoxy. which is what skunk2 uses in their race cars.
i plan on doing this next weekend if i can break the motor mount bolts loose.

 

i wouldnt do the 6k test to be honest. i'd be scared to take my car that high on low profile cam. don't wanna float a valve.