Hey I got a 95 gsr and did a little rebuild after misshift.

THINGS CHANGED
new rings
used but good condition gsr valves

cyl1=165

cyl2=175

cyl3=180

cyl4=175

Thats after I drove 72 miles on the build.

What do you think???

 

you got something wrong..

did you bother to check the deck and head for straightness before bolting them back on?

Did you unbolt the head bolts in the right order?

Did you use BRAND NEW headbolts, and torque them down in the right order?

answer those, and that should help.. Those numbers arent right to me.. cyl 3 is right about where it should be.. really, should be a lil higher, but thats not bad...

that 165 is not good..

how do you know that the GSR valves wear good?

Really, you should do a leakdown test, to determine where the low compression numbers are coming from..

Do this... Squirt a lil oil in each cylinder, do the compression test again, and post those numbers, so we can rule out the rings not sealing well..

 

I disagree. You're within 10%, which isn't necessarily great, but isn't bad, either. Go ahead and do what ^^ suggests, but I wouldn't worry too much. FWIW an engine can have consistently much lower variation (thus far mine have always been within 2-3 psi of one another), but yours is within spec. Did you do it on a warm engine at WOT with FI disabled?

What you want is not to have particular values, but to have consistency across the cylinders. You're only dropping 8% in cyl. 1.

 

im just curious as to WHY it is low in the cylinder.. it could cause issues in the future.. i mean, if all 4 cylinders looked like the last 3, then it would be cool..

like Gagnar said, you shouldnt worry too much, but at least test it so you have an idea of why..it cant hurt...

im just a stickler for having it read perfect.. lol.. call me paranoid

 

well the car ran strong before rebuild so I figured that if I slap in new rings and change the valves I should be good. The dude I bought the valves from was just upgrading and said the valves are good. Old head bolts. I dipped them into oil before torquing them down the right way.

and I will try to do the wet comp test and post the numbers



thanks anyway

 

WOT with FI disabled....?? engine was warmed up

 

OH and I still need to adjust my valves not to have the valve lash

 

did you do it cold? those are good cold numbers. try getting the car hot and holding the TB open, see if the numbers come up some.

 

Yeah, open the throttle either with the gas pedal or at the TB, make sure the engine is fully warm, and disable the fuel injection system either by switching a fuel cutoff switch (if you installed one), pulling the PGM-FI fuse in the engine bay, or some other means of stopping the fuel from flowing. It's easier if you have a partner who can hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine while you monitor the compression tester.

 

rule of thumb... DO NOT reuse your head bolts.. They are stretched.. which can cause them to break, and not torque down right..

you did right by dipping them in oil, BUT with the fact that you reused your headbolts, that can cause issues later..

 

no motor idled dor a good 5 min and TB was wide open

 

I reused mi old gsr head bolts and my engine has 3-4 k miles after that with usdm itr pistons and new rings. Not a single isue what so ever. Oh and i am not that kind to mi car either. Ask OP and he shall tell you.

 

Were the cylinders measured to be in spec? If they were in spec did you hone them?

 

Also did you grind the valves and valve seats in the head so they seal perfectly? Or did you just put the used valves in the used head?

Sorry if you did everything right I'm just making sure.

 

they used the stuff to set the valves. The car ran strong before the build so I figured it would still run good after rebuild. I honed the walls.

 

this usually won't get an engine warm in the winter. drive it for 10 down the street then try it. by the way, how many miles are on this engine? at least 500? and did you break it in correctly? as in redline it, back off, repeat

 

im stating opinion.. im stating fact... its like reusing a timing belt that is 90,000 miles old.. the bolts stretch to spec when torqued.. its just a fact..

so yeah.. you didnt have any issues, but that doesnt mean that it wont happen.. just google up "head bolt stretch"... you will learn alot from it.. ALWAYS use new head bolts... lucky you didnt boost.. you totally could have lifted the head from too much pressure and weak, stretched bolts.. you EASILY could have broken a bolt in the head when torquing it down.. i have seen it happen...

Its preventative to do that type of stuff.. its your engine, its expensive, and to me, the 100 bucks id pay for the head bolts 100% justify it, as fixing the engine AFTER it ****s up, is WAY more expensive..

 

ok I got about 75 miles on the "build". yea I guess engine was not really warm. I'll do the test later again.
PROPS to igorka_91, he was the one that showed me how to set the rings. rev 1st gear to 6k and let go of gas to about 3k rpm then second gear and third. we did that like 7-8 times

 

LOL Boost and callifornia shuldnt be used in the same sentence at all. Oh and what idiot would bosst an engine with stock head bolts, thats just asking for trouble.
Yeah i completely understand what youre saying but i needed the car to drive the car to work. Plus as of right now i piked up an b20b to build it for crvtec wich will have arp headstuds and the whole shebang

 

After i installed the new rings. I did a compresion test every 200 miles and so and mi numbers would climb and even out. I did the dumb mistake of running the car while the timming was a tooth of and it ran rich so it washed the rings of. I had compresiion all 230s across the board after about 1k miles. Then it went down to 200ish because i washed out the rings i guess.
We broke his rings in like this. 1st gear-Smash it till 6, let go and let it coast down by itself till 2k rpms. Then second the same till 6 then 3rd the same till 6. Then we went up in the rpm range a lil more and more in every gear.

 

dude how do you get around with working at pizza guys and at the same time reading honda-tech???
beats me

 

that did not change anything same 165 well maybe I drove the car for only 75 miles. I will do a valves adjustment and rune the car for at least 200 miles and check compression again

 

I always boost in cali.. i love it.. lol... not in my honda, though...

but ALOT of people boost on the stock head bolts.. people do it all the time.. and acutally make decent power.. you just cannot boost the **** out of it.. lol

good luck with the b20V.. those are soooo frikkin fast.. hella people here rock them in hatches..

 

Ive been working here since 15 and a halfish and im almost 19......so go figure.

 

Well maybe youre in a diferent part of calli. Were in sactown were stuff gets crazzy.

My goal in the b20v is 220 but i am shure that i will more then likely surpass that by a lil with the parts that i will run. Well as they say "the more the better".