Hey HT
I piked up an b20b block yesterday for an steal pretty much. I hve been loking for one for a lil while now to build an CRVtec. I have alot of questions to ask you guys.
Here is my build list. I have been living in the "post ur all-motor stock sleeves b20vtec builds" and chosing parts. Now i ned some one to confirm the parts list before i start spending money on the right parts.

Block:
b20b ...........80$. Shuld i run stock bore 84mm or get it bored to 84.5mm..?
Of course theres gonna be tons of measurements made
itr 84 mm rs machined pistons..........Or spend 200 more and get CP pistons..?
SCAT b20 rods...........Has any one ran these...Ow will i be better of with stock rods?
b20 ARP rod bolts 8 mm, same ones that fit into d series rods...........
ARP head studs..........
ACL bearing kit.............

tranny:
Gsr tranny with obx lsd

Head:
B16 head with dual valve springs and ti retainers
new valve stem seals....
Blox 78-76mm TB
CTR cams or wich ever willl yield me more power with my set up
880cc injectors to run with e85

Fuel:
880cc injectors to run with e85
255LPH intank walbro

Exhaust: 2.5 inch with stock gsr Cat..maybe straight pipe
ECU:
Chipped P28, obd2 to obd1 skunk 2 conversion harness...Need more info on what will run my set up better.


Personal Goal: 220whp and what ever torque it yields me.

Ok now on with the questions.
Alot of people say that ACL bearings will not be good for what i need. dannyk20 said that unless i have green marked bearings in the block right now, the acl standards will be to tigh.
One of the connecting rods has green stamped bearings and the rest from what it apears to be have yelloow mark on the rest.
Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591"- 0.0590"
Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590"- 0.0589"
Took the crank out to see the main bearings.....#1 has red and all the rest have yellow marked bearings.......?

 

ok my personal opinion is that you leave it 84mm and just sleeve it bc b20 sleeves suck ***. as far as pistons spend that extra 200 and be on safe and have reliable pistons such as mahle or cp pistons . i have scat rods with 12.1 comp pistons over 2 1/2 years and had no problem, even hydro locked the motor they didnt even bent!!!! my luck lol. as far as the cams for you money and to make crazy power i have guy that built me a motor and compared over 10 sets of diff cams on dyno (on the same motor) believe it or not Skunk 2 pro series cams came out on top for the money!They make power thur the whole climb and make more on top end! comparing to toda and that other cams. Hope this helps!!

i made 209whp 128tq (i also made 215whp on it but tuned it down had problems with air fuel ratio) on 1.8l 11.1 comp ported head sk2 stage 2 cams stock intake manifold stock TB ,spoon header4-2-1 hondata s300 etc... i dont see a problem for you reaching 220

if you do 2l 12.1 comp and skunk2 stage 2's you will get wellover 220whp tq can be anywhere from 150-170 . i am building 2l with stroker 2.2 l with 12.1 and sk2 stg 3 cams with ITB's looking for 240+ on pump gas

 

To Allmotor-R:

What were all the cams your tuner tested? I'm curious.

 

Hey thanks for the help. This build is a build that will take me a year +/- to build and truying to keep it under 2.5$ grand with chosing parts wisely i guess. I will not sleve it because the power i am shoting for isnt enough to crack the sleves with a proper tune and and an good colling system.
The reason why i am chosing to get RS machined pistons is because people have and still run them and have gread results and make great power out of them. I know the saying "what you pay for is what you get" comes to mind butt they do work. Thanks for telling me about the SCAT rods. I plan on running them butt i still need more people to pitch in about these rods please.

 

hey yea I ran them in my 85mm setup and it worked great as a matter a fact still works great after 3 years of beating. I got 283whp but with your goal, you'll be better off using stock ones and invest in cams or tune

 

Dang that is good to hear. Ure saying that the stock b20 rods will hold 220 whp DD for as long as the engine last if not a bit more. Wouldnt it be better to be in the safe side and invest like 300$ into some stronger rods IMO. Were can i order a set of them. Do you have a link to a website that sells them so i can save it for later on purposes. Oh and will i have to do any machining to fit them into the RS machine ITR pistons..?
Thanks

Guys can you help me out with chosing the right bearings. Will standard ACL bearings be safe/reliable to run.
Thanks again

 

I got to call him and see ..i know for a fact to my knowledge blox cams , old skunks , todas ,toda vtec killer , crower and few more.. ill check and get back to you with exact info.Because when i was building my head i wanted top notch i mean there are drag racing cams with a lift you cant daily drive but street wise i seen a diff and whats unique about skunk's their tq level across the board is even it is not up and down like many cams and power brand just rising no drop hp..It can also be how u degree them i guess and a tuner..

 

if you are on the budget get pistons(around 500-600 new) cams you can find them from 400-800 used or new even im talking skunks dont know on other and scat rods are like 350-470 that is right there 1700 and you still have $$left over for valves retainers etc.NOte: depending what cams you buy make sure u get a good valves and etc..on your head cuz it is very important dont mix toda valves supertech spring and skunk2 cams for example you wont last long. if you budget is 2.5$ then you can do the above or do more research but thats pretty much about it pistons,cams ,valvetrain and rods for 2200 ..
and you will have built motor with no worries..

 

heres the dyno when we were starting to tune it!! look at the tq level and hp raising thats first or second pull

 

I am planing on piking up super tech flat face valves...brand new from a buddi of mines for a gread deal if it goes thrue. The from another friend some supertech dual valve springs and TI retainers. You left out the Bearings wich if i go with oem are roughly 300 a set for oem bearings or run the ACL bearings...? I dont want to spend 500 on pistonds when knowing that the 300 RS machined 84 mm ITR pistons will more then do the job. You said dont mix the head components. Will the supertech valves, TI retainers and um Skunk 2 cams be a great combo...?
Thanks

 

save that money and invest in a nice set of cams. tune the motor properly too

 

Ok so if the engine makes more then 220 whp...I am safe to run the stock rods up to about 9 k rpms.....? This will be mi DD in a dc2 chassi and an Wekend warrior here and there.
Still no replys on running ACL bearings..?

 

No, stock rods were designed to be safe at the ls/crv redline.

You should run bearings that will give the desired clearance. If the ACLs will do that then you are fine.

 

I loked at the bearings in the block, most of them have yellow marking on them, 2 bearings have green and main bearing on #4 has an red bearing...... I am still learning how to read bearings and figure wich ones to run...

Nah ill invest in some stronger rods just to be on the safe side. Will i have to machine the SCAT rods to fit the RS machine ITR pistons..?

 

no point of hitting 9's. 8.5 is more than enough.

My motor has like 60k miles after the build still running strong as can be. Still racing and beating evo's and sti's with stock rods. yea i'm not your dad to tell you were to spend your money. you can go machine a block out of a solid peice of alluminum and you will be totally safe and spend more than 10k on the build.

 

Yeah i understand. I just want to have them and if anything happens, like a misshift. I wont be loking at a hole in the block. This build is gonna get up and going in a month.
I will make a build tread for you guys.

 

No one answered what bearings i shuld run.........?
I know oem, but ACL will work just fine.

 

dude did you read this? bearings are bearings. its not rod that could snap.

 

Blin not you again with ure BS.
go run 1910s ford t model bearings in ure hatch then...beaings are bearing i tell yah.

 

what he ment by that is it dont matter if it acl king or oem just get the right ones in the right size for your motor and put it together

 

Your in citrus heights... you need a B16 head? I got a really good condition one local.

 

ok but you'll pay the machine shop to custom line it up

stop asking to much get building and thats it. bearings is not the head breaking part of the build. Your not going to drive that thing for 10 years. Kat does not worry about bearings. good reliable tune and your safe. listen what ppl say,not " so are they good" "so are they good" " can anyone say" blah blah blah.

Noobs be slapping motors together and posting the builds here and are good. Your making it look like your building a 450whp car. Your not 220whp is nothing super big and can have some stock parts in it.

 

LOL I am jjust making shure.....Gotta double ask double chek.
Thanks

 

yea totally tru thanks bro measure it up and if its all good, and if its cool then just run it and your safe. worry about more important stuff

 

UUMMM ok..Thats why you see al these posts..."Spun rods bearing on Freshly rebuild Engine"......ETC ETC......I know you dont care. But i do. I dont want to be loking at 2grand worth of engine parts with an rod sticking out of the side of the block. It will get going once the funds are in.