LS-VTEC No Spark ICM problem?
Not getting spark, checked for readings at the distributor plug here's what I got with key on ON position
ICM = 0
Crank + = .4
Crank - = .01
CYP + = .04
CYP - = .01
TDC + = .7
TDC - = .01
RPM LEAD = .11
any help would be great thanks in advance
checked for voltage on ecu for ICM got 0, is there a fuse ?
ICM = 0
Crank + = .4
Crank - = .01
CYP + = .04
CYP - = .01
TDC + = .7
TDC - = .01
RPM LEAD = .11
any help would be great thanks in advance
checked for voltage on ecu for ICM got 0, is there a fuse ?
Last edited by mark11017; Jan 11, 2010 at 05:31 PM.
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check to the left side with links for ignition problems and troubleshooting
check to the left side with links for ignition problems and troubleshooting
Was your tach jumping around prior to this happening? If so, your icm is probably bad b/c it sends a signal to your tach and if its going bad it will make it jump around.
Also did you check your coil? I had the same problem and one second my car would run and one minute it'd shut off and not get spark for another couple hours after sitting. So...try starting it after letting it sit and if it starts, you can assume its the coil but if not, its probably the coil anyway lol.
The coil and icm are the same for d and b series dizzys, obd1 and obd2. Not sure about h series. But I'd try to find one at a junkyard b/c a coil runs about $80 new at Honda and $180 for the icm. Hope this helps
Also did you check your coil? I had the same problem and one second my car would run and one minute it'd shut off and not get spark for another couple hours after sitting. So...try starting it after letting it sit and if it starts, you can assume its the coil but if not, its probably the coil anyway lol.
The coil and icm are the same for d and b series dizzys, obd1 and obd2. Not sure about h series. But I'd try to find one at a junkyard b/c a coil runs about $80 new at Honda and $180 for the icm. Hope this helps
I agree with the tach jumping and yes H's are the same. You just have to make sure the pins off the ICM are the same, as some are different. ICM's do seem to be pretty common, as i had one go out. I'd try that.
Hmm well the car was running yesterday, its just my harness shorted out and I redid the wires. How much volts does the ICM see at ON? Because im now getting .04 at the ecu and at the diz plug.
bump any more ideas? i noticed fuse 54 under hood is blown would that have anything to do with this? getting .04 at ICM on yel/grn wire is that correct voltage
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The car ran the day before I dident drive it yet becuase of other problems leading to my harness,the harness was a mess and needed to be fix and since then im not getting spark but my other problems are gone. im almost positive the only wire not getting current was the yel/grn but i cant say for sure
The blue wire, if you have one, attached to the ICM is for the tachometer.
Edit: The Wht/Blu wire is a blue wire for the Hitachi distributor. Do you have a blue wire running between the coil and ICM. If so, does it have low or no voltage? If the latter is true, resistance test the coil.
When you turn the key to ON(II), do the dash warning lights turn on? Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds?
Is the distributor connector tightly seated?
All dash lights come on as expected, im on obd1 jut fyi, and yes my pump comes on 2 seconds shuts off. ill check the fuse when i go back to the car its not at my house. but if its not blown then there must be a short after the fuse??
I'm currently thinking fuse 9 is blown, so check that first using your multimeter.


