DA front lca in CRX
Has anyone tried using these in a CRX to gain some negative camber? The DA has 1" of extra front track width over the CRX and I dont think it comes from the knuckle since you have to remove the dustring to fit the longer B series axles in a swapped CRX even if you run integra knuckles afaik. So either the control arms are longer or the rear crossmember has inboard pivots spaced wider. I'm maybe venturing a guess than the Integra crossmemeber isn't different because I have an civic ex rack in my car and it accepts a DA powersteering rack, the outer tie rod end part number are also the same. I could be wrong though. Anyone have a pair of DA front LCAs they can measure? I have some CRX ones, thanks.
http://www.shopresponse.com/cusco_fr...ie_bar_ef.html
this must mean that the inboard mounts are the same, so does anyone have any idea how much longer the integra arms are?
this must mean that the inboard mounts are the same, so does anyone have any idea how much longer the integra arms are?
I am talking off the top of my head however I believe it is the hubs that are different and give the DA the wider tract. I have never measured the lower control arms or the hubs against the CRX.
well if something that costs $20 that never slips and never needs to be adjusted does the same thing I think I'd rather go with that. I bought camber kits already but I'd rather sell them and try a pair of these arms if that will get me a similar result. I did some rough calculations and if all the extra track width comes from the arms it will give me just about the amount of camber gain I am looking for. I also just tried to do a rough tape measuring of the hub depth of the crx hub and the integra hub I have sitting in my basement with a tape measure and as well as I could see it did not look like the extra .5 comes from different hubs, the hub depth looked to be exactly the same. And as far as I could eyeball the position of the LBJ relative to the back of the hub seemed to be the same as well. If someone actually has a LCA laying around that they could measure that would be really helpful. This could be a good cheap option for people running dual purpose cars that aren't slammed looking for more camber without kits.
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I have DA LCA's on my 91 si. The LCA's are exactly the same except for the alignment of the two bolt holes that connect the lower control arm to the bar to the front cross member. You would have to grind out the holes on that bar to make it work or replace your crossmember with a tractoin bar that has the bolt mounts similar to an ETD traction bar or full-race traction bar
I have DA LCA's on my 91 si. The LCA's are exactly the same except for the alignment of the two bolt holes that connect the lower control arm to the bar to the front cross member. You would have to grind out the holes on that bar to make it work or replace your crossmember with a tractoin bar that has the bolt mounts similar to an ETD traction bar or full-race traction bar
Sounds like the radius rods won't line up. You have 5 connections on the front LCA:
1. Front subframe on the inner end
2. Radius rods that connect the LCA to the front crossmember
3. Front swaybar (optional)
4. Shock
5. Lower ball joint that connects to the knuckle
I'd be quite surprised if everything was the same and this hadn't surfaced before. gnar_kill is saying the radius rods don't line up, so hopefully the other 4/5 do. He does have a good alternative though, assuming that's all that doesn't line-up, which is to install a traction bar which replaces the stock radius rods.
1. Front subframe on the inner end
2. Radius rods that connect the LCA to the front crossmember
3. Front swaybar (optional)
4. Shock
5. Lower ball joint that connects to the knuckle
I'd be quite surprised if everything was the same and this hadn't surfaced before. gnar_kill is saying the radius rods don't line up, so hopefully the other 4/5 do. He does have a good alternative though, assuming that's all that doesn't line-up, which is to install a traction bar which replaces the stock radius rods.
if the radius rod doesn't line up, its definitely not worth it.
how bout just bending the stock knuckle? its been done a bunch of times and has never failed.
how bout just bending the stock knuckle? its been done a bunch of times and has never failed.
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