got a 93 civic SI changed all 4 caliper because it sat for over 2 years. when i go to bleed the brakes with the car off its fine. pedal is a little stiffer than it was. right when i go to start the car its soft as **** no pressure at all but it does release back up and doesnt stay down like it would on a leaky system. just wondering what you guys thoughts are ? should i bleed it with the car running ? right when i pull the vacuum like off the booster its a little stiffer again though wondering if its the master or the booster ?

 

i believe you should bleed with the car in the ACC on position or with the engine on.
also are you bleeding it wrong?

 

no im bleeding it right .. furthest away from the booster first .. rr,rl,fr,fl

 

You bleed them with the car off not running and how are you bleeding them by yourself? You pump the brakes 3 or so times and hold it then have someone crack open the bleeder screw for about a second and half to two seconds then close the bleeder screw and THEN you can release the brake pedal. Never pump the brakes with the bleeder screw open as you will just suck in more air, also watch the fluid level and dont let the resevoir get empty. Do this a couple times on each wheel until you get a stream of straight fluid with no air bubbles.
The brakes are going to get stiff when the engine isnt running as there isnt any vacuum being produced to allow the booster to work properly so brake pedal feel is irrevalant when the car is off in this situation.

 

replaced the master and still the same sympton when i go to start the car but didnt get to bleed yet .. should i bleed it with the car running or off ??

 

i had someone pump hold it down and i crack the bleeder screw

 

Bleed the system some more, making sure to close the bleeder valve before the fluid stops squirting out. If it doesn't help at all then check the soft lines.

 

should i bleed the prop valve too ?? if so how do you bleed prop valves??

 

Bleed it the same way you did but go slower. Only open the bleeder for a single second, quickly closing it. Once the brake gets a little stiffer, you can open the bleeder a little longer but be sure to close it before the fluid stops coming out. There are vacuum pumps for bleeding hydraulics that collect the brake fluid and help to keep air from entering the bleeder.

 

how dirty is your brake fluid? change it if it's not clear.

 

when you bleed the system you also need to check that the brake pedal doesnt go to the floor also sfter bleeding you need to top oiff the liquid

other way you can bleed it is with the car off open the master cylinder and bleed the bleeder screw a litle the atmospheric pressure should wor but tougher to do if you dont know how but also can be done with one person

if that doesnt work you might have a bad rubber hose

 

maybe im just that drunk but this makes absolutely no sense to me at all, and i dont think im that drunk.

I would say just keep bleeding them, check the system for any leaks at all, the lines and everything.

 

all of you are wrong.. why would you bleed the brakes with key in ACC that makes no sense our systems are not electronic... do the brakes in this sequence..

. fill resivoir to max
. go to RR wheel bleed that till fluid is not dirty and is bubble free.
.. do same procedure for the following.. LF LR the RF..
. the fluid must be clear.
if u bury that pedal in the bleeding process say hello to a new MC.
if u put a new MC u must bench bleed the MC out of the car first the install.
make sure ur using DOT3 fluid. that is fresh. as in u just broke the seal on it
if you do all this correctly and still a bad pedal then that booster took a **** on u. and ull end bleeding the breaks again.. i would reccomend an OEM MC and Booster ive had bad luck through all major aftermarket parts store..

 

my eg did that to me... i ended up changing master and booster.

 

damnnn ima try bleeding it again .. hopefully it wont be a freakn nightmare ..

 

bump still waiting to bleed it when i get a chance