hey im trying to build a low compression gsr motor with boost
so i need some help on what internals should i get?
BLOCK:
do i need a new crankshaft or could i use my oem one?
low compression pistons? i dont know which one is best or safe with boost
rods? i heard eagle rods are good
do i need new oil squirters?
should i keep my bore size 81mm or hone it to 81.5mm to make sure i have a perfect bore?
piston rings?
water pump?
oil pump?
idk if im missing anything.. it be great if u could help me out more

anybody use nippon low compression pistons?only $160
they got JE piston with eagle rods for $750 (if separated it be $900) C/R 9.0:1 ratio
Wiesco piston with eagle rods for $750 but C/R 9.7:1
SRP with eagle rods $720 C/R 9.0:1

HEAD:
for the dual valves and Titanium retainers
skunk2 is like $400 pro is$ 520
BLOX is $275
supertech is $300
brian crower is 350 but their retainers are steel

Valves
Supertech $260
skunk2 $291
are there any more brand valves?

camshafts
which stage should i go? what happens if i go a higher stage? need better vavle springs and retainers?
skunk2
blox
brian crower

cam gears
do they improve anything?

Headgasket
thicker better right? does it raise or lower compression?

lighter pulleys?

what kind of timing belt?

port and polish head?

what does sleeve block mean?

i think im ready for turbo or not at all........ lol

any help be appreciated

 

PLEASE HELP A NOOB!

 

well, before ANYTHING, what are you planning on doing, how much do you have to spend, how fast do you want to go, and how much HP do you want?

answer all that, and THEN, and only then, can we tell you what would be a good setup... it will help alot to answer that, as not all parts will do what you want

 

Money is not a problem for me
but i dont want to throw it at a shop and let them do it
i want to learn man
HANDS ON BABY! haha
i want at least 300whp!
if anybody got a good setup that hits around there it will be helpful

 

HELP PLEASE!

 

you can make 300 with a stock GSR. but if you are building it 300 is a pretty easy task...id say go with the JE pistons/Eagle rods. Wouldn't hurt to go 81.5...a lot of guys use Crower turbo cams...always heard good things about them. Of course match them with the appropriate springs and retainers. With those pistons don't even worry about a thicker head gasket...go stock. The reality of building an engine is that no matter what brand parts you buy...or how much they cost...they are NOTHING without a good tune. Make sure you have a reputable tuner near you...since you are in CA im sure you wont have a problem, finding one...but tuning is the most important step. Good Luck!

 

yeah you are right
im planning to run hondata s300

 

anybody?

 

someones gotta help me

 

damn noob lol.. well i dont have room to talk ha.. only 16 ha

well as far as your block.. id go low compression 9:1 je forged pistons with forged rods (eagle, crower, etc). bore your cylinders .020 over (81.5 mm). as far as your crank i think oem is fine but an eagle knife edged crank would be nice. and id highly recommend sleeving your block depending on how much boost your going to run. anything more than 15 pounds and you want sleeves. dont run more then that on stock sleeves.. rings, wrist pin and all that comes with pistons. much more to think about tho

as far is your head goes. you can keep the gsr head as is.. aftermarket IM, CS, CG, valves, and all that is nice but not nesseccary unless your building a high hp motor.. theres much more tho that can go in or not and much to think about

personally you dont sound like you know what your doing.. i would recommend building an all motor.. more pride in building an all motor and less beating on your motor

 

lol thats why im asking for help
sorry im more of a turbo
thanks

 

Check out the FI Forum and use search, you will find tons of info!

 

I have a b18c1 turbo running 300+ whp for internals I went with 81.5mm 8.6:1 Wisco Pistons with the K1 rods and Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshaft, dont have to go with the aftermarket crankshaft only reason why i did is because i up my boost from 12lbs (street) to 22lbs (track) and i needed the crank for when i am running it at 22lbs but if you keep it at 12lbs you will be at about 300whp and would be ok with oem crank but if you plan on running more boost in the future might as well put an aftermarket crank well you have your engine ripped apart already will save time and money

 

thanks ill try that out

Nice i was thinking 9.0:1 JE piston with eagle rods 81.5mm
yea i dont want to go really high oem crank will be enough
thanks

 

dont really recommand using it as a daily driver either once you go turbo, so if you dont have a everyday driver I would say keep it NA and just build the engine like the other guy said wont be hard to hit 300hp on a GSR engine without turbo

 

well my DD i use about 10-50miles per day
but i guess it wont hurt to try and if it did i will learn

 

Oh boy where to begin, this is an exact reason why I told you to check out the FI forum. A mild build like you are looking at, PROPERLY TUNED would be 100% perfect to daily and there are tons of HT members doing so.
A NA build wouldn't necessarily be more reliable then a turbo setup.
ANDDDDD it is VERY hard to hit 300hp on a GSR without turbo, sure with some nitrous or a blower but def not easy at all all motor.

Please get your facts straight before you try to help someone

 

See red text above. In short, don't be sucked into buying items you don't need. Save your money on the 300 setup because you can keep pretty much OEM everything.
x infinity. The reputable tuner is the most important thing hands down. Can't stress that enough.
See above. Tuner>tuning software.
False. Stock sleeves can handle a lot of power and it's not based on the psi being pushed by the turbo. OEM is plenty fine for your goals (and more).
x2.

The OEM crank will handle much more than a simple 300whp build. I can't find the article but I seem to recall Stephanie Eggum used a stock crank in her 1100whp drag car. Either way, the OEM crank has been proven effective time and time again in 5-600+ setups.

Please don't make me list all the high mileage/long lasting daily driver turbo cars on here.
x2 again.

 

I'm looking to do the same with my GSR once the threat of snow here subsides. Good luck with your build, searching the FI forum has been extremely helpful for me.

 

not saying that is not SAFE for a DD but it would be better not to put the mileage on a turbo engine i have a proper tune on my GSR turbo but still dont use it as a DD

 

What is the rationale behind this?

 

I agree with DUNC, why not? What's the difference? Because it MAY blow up? because any car MAY blow up at any time.
Basically if you get on it you get under it, that goes for a Jeep to a Kia......

 

[QUOTE=Dunc;41238045]See red text above. In short, don't be sucked into buying items you don't need. Save your money on the 300 setup because you can keep pretty much OEM everything.

thanks alot

 

thanks
ill be buying parts this weekend

 

yea i understand.. turbos are fun to a certain extent until you blow them.. thats what happened with me. boosted a b18c that was pretty much stock and blew it on 12 pounds