I am having a problem with my car ya'll. when it is cold i have a real hard time gettin it to start and when it does start it runs for a sec and then sputters and dies, but, when it gets warmed up it runs fine is there anything that ya'll can tell me that would help. Thanks in advance........

 

well i would start with the obvious things such as check your plugs,cap and rotor,coil,fuel ect...any codes??

 

This is just an idea:

When CRX's start they have an FITV (Fast Idle thermo Valve), this allows the engine to idle high during cold starts. Without the ability to idle high during warm up the engine won't run by itself until its warm and can idle without the FITV.

The FITV is mounted on the back of the intake manifold. Take it off, check the gaskets and hoses for cracks or leaking and then clean out the unit. (look for write-ups on how to do this).

Another easy option is just to source another one from a junk yard.

 

Plugs,wires, coil all good the fuel I am trying to find someone that has a fuel pressure guage to see if it is the pump but, on that front i am workin that issue. Thanks for the info. I'm new to the scene and am lost on a lot of things. again thank you.

 

say wuhhhh

stock d16a6's do not have fitv's. and even if they did, they'd be mounted on the underside of the throttle body. whats mounted on the back of the intake manifold is the iacv. this controls warm idle, not cold. the only thing on an a6 that controls cold idle is the ficsv (fast idle control solenoid valve) which functions nothing like a fitv. it is an electronically controlled purge valve that allows in extra air to raise the idle when the coolant temp is below 14 degrees fahrenheit.



op: if it is this cold where you live, then perhaps the ficsv is where your problem lies.

 

Listen to this guy... I was working from a b16 frame of mind... 12 years around CRX's and you'd think I'd get all my little bits and pieces right...

 

In my experience, Honda refers to the thing on the back of the manifold as the EACV. Especially when you're looking up parts. Not all d16a6 manifolds are the same.

My d16a6 manifold does not have, nor did it ever have a FICSV on it.

#11 in this picture does not exist on my manifold, not even the ports. Infact, I've owned 3 CRX's, rebuilt 4 d16a6's and 1 b16 and have never seen this.



My manifolds have always looked like this:


I am assuming that on these manifolds the IAT, #17 is responsible for the function of the FICSV.

 

how would the iat sensor be able to add more air? and although it's not pictured, the intake manifold with the ficsv does have an iat sensor as well.

both a6 im's i've had in my posession had the ficsv so i'm not sure why yours didn't. in the 2nd picture i'm pretty sure that is an intake mani off of a car which had an automatic trans, denoted by the presence of the egr equipment. maybe diff year a6's or a6's that were in the 4 door or wagovan didn't have it.. i'm really not sure. i would expect to see the ficsv present on cars with a manual trans, and not present on ones with an auto.

 

I'm not sure, what is it exactly that the IAT controls? If the IAT tells the computer that the air is cold then couldn't the computer cause the EACV to allow more air to flow through it? Are you sure the EACV has no function on cold startup?

All my A6's are out of CRX Si's (2 red, one silver). They were all 1988's, perhaps that's why?. All of them were 5 speed.

Found this on Redpepper racing:
So if the IAT or ECT (in the head) give the ECU the info it needs to control both cold and hot idle, what unit then allows for more air to bypass the Throttle body to increase the idle?


We've completely hi-jacked this thread but hopefully the OP get something out of it.

 

Extra picture... not my engine but this is the d16a6 manifold I have and I'm sure many others have: The engine itself in this pic doesn't look like a d16a6 as they didn't come with intermediate shafts.


also,

Found this on the CRX performance forums from someone trying to diagnose a very similar problem for someone else:

It's starting to look like the D16a6 manifolds that don't have an FICSV rely on the EACV to regulate both COLD and HOT idle via inputs from the ECT and IAT sensor..

Sweet.

Therefore, if CRX nut has a manifold that DOES have the FICSV he should look at testing it and replacing it if necessary. If he has a manifold like mine without the FICSV then he definitely needs to remove and clean his EACV, reinstall and test, then replace if necessary.


HOWEVER,

Even if these 2 items have failed the cars should still fire easily when cranked (but die shortly afterwards), especially if you start the car and leave your foot pressing on the accelerator a bit to keep the throttle plate open. If CRX nut is simply having a difficult time getting the car to fire after cranking and cranking then his problem isn't may not be these sensors but could be something else or both.

Try starting your car with your foot pushing down a bit on the accelerator pedal a bit to keep the butterfly open, if it starts more easily then you know the EACV or FICSV is not working as that is what allows air to bypass the throttle body butterfly while idling.

Sensors typically throw codes when they cease to function or function out of a specified range , solenoids can reduce in functionality outside of intended operational range without triggering a code.

GOOD LUCK!

 

it seems i was stuck in the frame of mind of the newer 92+ engines. in fact the iacv on the 88-91 chassis does control cold and hot idle. should of figured as much, but for some reason i didn't.

quote from ALLDATA

"The EACV changes the amount of air bypassing the throttle body in response to a current signal from the ECU in order to maintain the proper idle speed.

After the engine starts, the EACV opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about:

std. 150-300 rpm
HF 150-250 rpm
Si 300-500 rpm

When the coolant temperature is low, the EACV is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is thus controlled in relation to the coolant temperature."

so i guess that solves that lol

 

Hey ya'll thanks for all the info as of now i just found out 2 miles from the house on a 500 mile trip I blew the head gasket on the damn thing and i got the head inspected and it was warped and had a crack. Things the guy i bought it from failed to mention... hmmmmm..... He said he just rebuilt the motor and the headgasket was worthless... the guy i think screwed me so i will keep ya'll posted...