HELP! losing oil, but no leak
Hey everyone
I have a 92 4 door LX.. I recently did a motor swap and everything went off without a hitch.. but now, I am losing oil like NO other! I had to order a new gasket for my header, where the four pipes meet the 2 right by the radiator, and was driving around without one on there for a bit.. But other than that, I see no reason as to why I am losing so much oil. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be great!
Thanks
Ian
I have a 92 4 door LX.. I recently did a motor swap and everything went off without a hitch.. but now, I am losing oil like NO other! I had to order a new gasket for my header, where the four pipes meet the 2 right by the radiator, and was driving around without one on there for a bit.. But other than that, I see no reason as to why I am losing so much oil. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be great!
Thanks
Ian
I don't downshift a ton.. and I did not replace any oil seals.. just replaced it with an f22 motor
I put my new exhaust on today and the exhaust smells kinda like its burning... what could that be?
I put my new exhaust on today and the exhaust smells kinda like its burning... what could that be?
new, especially coated exhaust does smell a little untill it goes through a few heat cycles and gets "cleaned."
it's generally a good idea to install new seals on a swap before it goes in. it's much easier that way and they really don't cost much. are you sure you don't have a leak? no dampness or black grim anywhere on the motor?
it's generally a good idea to install new seals on a swap before it goes in. it's much easier that way and they really don't cost much. are you sure you don't have a leak? no dampness or black grim anywhere on the motor?
new, especially coated exhaust does smell a little untill it goes through a few heat cycles and gets "cleaned."
it's generally a good idea to install new seals on a swap before it goes in. it's much easier that way and they really don't cost much. are you sure you don't have a leak? no dampness or black grim anywhere on the motor?
it's generally a good idea to install new seals on a swap before it goes in. it's much easier that way and they really don't cost much. are you sure you don't have a leak? no dampness or black grim anywhere on the motor?
and From what I was told by the guy who helped me install it, he did the seals and other misc stuff. I am positive there is no dampness or black grime on the motor. I have searched it endlessly
But last night, when I went to take her around the block, she was running rough, popping when slowing down off the gas, kinda jumpy when held in the accelerator.. what could cause this, I am about ready to give up on the car and go get something that runs decent enough to make it to work and home.
running rough... popping.. i think these are usually related to bad cam or ingnition timing. wouldn't be a bad idea to double check.
if the oil is not leaking out it must be burning out..
my dad drives a CB7 with similar symptoms but he's always had old cars so he's used to frequent oil checks and filling.
a compression and leak-down test may reveal worn/leaking rings which can burn oil. bad valve stem seals will also burn oil.
if the oil is not leaking out it must be burning out..
my dad drives a CB7 with similar symptoms but he's always had old cars so he's used to frequent oil checks and filling. a compression and leak-down test may reveal worn/leaking rings which can burn oil. bad valve stem seals will also burn oil.
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am checking plugs in the morning, but how do I do a leak down test.. sorry, these are all new to me, I know how to do more than your average bear.. but not more than the smartest bear
You need an air compressor for a leak down test. Most mechanics won't know the difference between a compression test and a leak down test. Find a performance shop, like a tuner, and they should be able to do one for you. It pressurizes the whole system to find where the leaks are.
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