i own a 89 civic 3 door and i have converted it to obd1 , my question is would a bent valve not let my car rev past3500 rpm? my motor is a zc sohc

 

nah, I peg it on the obd1 conversion. Any codes?

 

^ X2

 

well i did the conversion a while back and it didint do this , it all started when i changed my water pump and my clutch and when i got it all together it fuked up on me its throwing cel- 4, 10, 14, 21, 22, 41 it was peviously throwing all execpt 41 i think thats o2 but i cant seem to wire up the sensor right... but it never did this even if i dint have the o2 in it would still rev to redline

 

Yeah, code 4(crank pos. sensor)- 99% sure that would throw the ecu into limp mode. IAT, IACV, vtec pressure switch, vtec solenoid, and o2 heater. If it was giving you all of these before the pump and clutch job, then you got a lot bigger problem than just not being able to rev to redline. When exactly did the codes appear? Right after the conversion?

 

i converted it before i did the pump and the clutch it happend after replacing those parts

 

and i tried two diff dizzys but same code

 

maybe the tranie is messed up because i left my bro and uncle to finish it cause i had to go to work and they didint even line up the tranie to the clutch and just bolted it on i fixed it the day after but it just makes some wierd noises now

 

As for the tranny and weird noises, idk what they did, but that won't cause electrical problems like this.
I don't see how changing the clutch and water pump would cause all these codes unless stuff was unplugged or the wires were damaged or something. Unfortunately, you're gonna have to break out a multimeter and go through all the codes on this one.

For IAT-green/white should be a ground and have continuity with the green/white wire on the ECT. red/yellow goes to your ECU on pin D15. Check for continuity between those.

For IACV-With ignition on, you should have 12v on black/yellow. blue/yellow goes to pin A9 on the ECU.

For vtec pressure sw-You had to add the vtec stuff for the obd1 conversion. One wire goes to ECU pin D6. The other should go to ground.

For vtec solenoid-Goes to ECU pin A4

For the crank position: On your distributor, you should have blue/yellow that goes to B16 and a blue/green wire that goes to B15.

The O2 heater should go to A6, but some ECUs don't have an o2 heater circuit. What ecu do you have? Hopefully this makes it easier to figure this crap out. lol gl

 

Have you double checked your cam/crank timing?

 

yes i have i cant get it dead on but its good enough im runing p28 everything stock and the thing about the codes4-10-14 is that the harness is missing the plugs themselfs and idk what the leads colors are to put new plugs on

 

O.o you're missing those plugs? um, how? The original obd0 harness should of had them. pics?

 

some one the original person i got it from i guess cut them off or something... i cant post pics all of my usb ports are all fu%ked up and the wierd thing about this is that i can down shift from 5k down to 3,500and the gas pedal is virtually useless during the downshift but when it gets down to 3,5k it "hits the rev limiter " or somthing

 

btw i would be willing to pay some one 10$ via paypal if they can help me out!!!(just a token of my apreciation)

 

as was already said, you're in limp mode. its a temporary rev limit to prevent you from damaging the engine. it's telling you something is wrong, so figure out what that is and fix it. fuzzy was kind enough to post various things for each code you can go test, so do that. fix all the codes, and your car will run the way its supposed to.