I put a B16 in my wagon and the swap itself went fine. Hits vtec, everything works great.

The first time I tried to do a full rip in first (8000rpm), when I shifted to second my clutch disc blew up. The friction material litterally ripped off about half of one side and somehow got changed in the pressure plate, causing it to stay stuck in release. Luckily, it had enough grip to get me home. I replaced the clutch.

I took it out for the first time. Put 60 miles on the new clutch when I tried a little first and second. Nothing crazy, maybe 7500rpm. Everythings ok. A few miles later, I got on the highway and did a nice third gear pull till 8000rpm and the exact same thing happened.

I'm questioning why 2 clutches, the first real rip on both of them, blew apart instantly immobilizing the vehicle. I will replace the clutch with hopefully with a nice upgrade. I ran some ACT way back with no issues at all. Should I look at anything else? Really the only thing that can explain it in my mind is that the forces on the clutch at 8000rpm is enough to overcome the shear strength of the friction material and I rip of a good chunk. Getting wedged in the pressure plate is just an effect of loose material.

Can anyone shed some light on clutches for me?

 

i dno if this helps but i had a friend that replaced 3 clutches and the reason the kept tearin up is bcuz the flywheel was messed up

 

lmao im sorry but when i read the title it sounded funny. but on a serious note, im not sure as to why they are "blowing up" but what kind of flywheel are u using? did u make sure everything is aligned correctly? also what kind of clutch are u using and pressure plate?

 

first off most clutch's recommend 500-1000 miles for break in. the first clutch i could understand that it might of been old. the second one is differentially your fault. wait about 1000 miles next time before you start ripping through gears.

 

Some people have great luck taking them out of the box and ripping on them, but I sure wouldn't do it.

 

race clutch's like act, clutch masters, center force and higher end excedy don't really need a break in period. my guess is op used oem or oem replacement clutch, which needs a break in period to matte it self to the fly wheel.

 

yeh because when i bought my act 6 pad. i didnt need any break in at all i started ripping on it day 1 n its lasted very long

 

The friction material litterally ripped off the rivets of the clutch. I don't see how that's a breaking-in problem. It was one rip, 85% throttle till 8000rpm after 60 miles in the city. A good bit of stop and go. If it can't take that it's a crap clutch. I'm gonna see what the part store warranty can replace, can you beleive it can with a 5 year warranty over clutch failure other then wear? I've seen these clutches do some good work tho. Had one in my GSR powered EK and it took it great.

It's easy to swap. My brother and I did it in about 2 hours. I just don't want a repeat and I'm looking for solutions.

 

type of clutch // type of flywheel?

 

Dynapack OEM replacement kit. New pilot bushing, release bearing, clutch, pressure plate. Came with it's own alignment tool. Flywheel is stock. It was scuffed, not machined. I didn't have time to machine. Frankly I've never machined one, and for the last 6 years I've never had issues, but that doesn't mean I'm ruling it out. We shall see tomorrow when I open it up. I'm gonna snag the clutch/flywheel out of my EK to get me by for now.

I'm thinking of buying a package clutch kit. Those exedy clutch and fidanza flywheel. I've seen those clutches handles there stuff well. Friend has one on an H22 swap, works nice. Are they worth wild?

 

i go with letting it break in.check your flywheel and make sure it isn't bent.

 

Make sure you "torque" the pressure plate down not "nice and tight" it down. Also when I do clutches I always tighten down in stages with a star pattern, to ensure the pressure plate was tighten down evenly and if available I like to put a non-directional finish on the pressure plate/flywheel with a brake rotor hone, never had a problem in the 10 years in the dealer/building hondas doing clutches that way. Also follow the instructions and break-in the clutch for whatever miles it says,Hope it helps

 

Did you get the flywheel resurfaced when you put the clutch in????
Most places that sell clutches(even OEM) will NOT warranty them unless you had the flywheel resurfaced.

As far as break in, have you ever seen a "race car" drive 1000 miles on clutch before they race on it?

 

You have to break in an OEM clutch, but it shouldnt implode

6 puck FTW

 

Even if the flywheel was grossly warped it would chatter and shutter but for actual pieces of Kevlar to come apart?

I am doubting the quality of the clutch. Is at an off brand ebay, xtd etc..?



That is where the XTD street clutch comes apart at.

 

Sounds to me a number of reasons why you are having issues.....

- most importantly, you are driving far to hard on a newly installed clutch. I have seen all to many times people drop in a new kit..performance or not, drive it hard soon after install, then boom...what a surprise
- dynopak clutches are ok, but not a performance option
- you didn't resurface your flywheel?

 

Drive it hard on a newly installed clutch? You guys talk like I went to a race track with this thing. One vtec pull, that's all I did.

Wasn't looking for performance when I bought the clutch, but these stock replacement are great for a stock replacement. This is my first time I had issues with one. I'm just concerned over a repeat because it died in the same fashion/conditions as my original one did.

No fly wheel resurface. Kind of hard to acheive on a Saturday evening. OH well. Tonight I'm replacing the clutch with the one from my EK. I know that one can handle it. If it blows up too I got bigger problems.

Here are the pics of my original clutch

 

All you guys claiming break-in failure..LOL!!! Something is misaligned or warped. I have put so many clutches in so many model cars it isn't funny. Break it in how your going to drive it. OEM or not. I have never had a problem in 10 years. Have your flywheel checked.

 

my s2000 did the same thing to a act stage 2 about 500 miles into having it on the company replaced it and i was much more carefull putting the second one in. i also replaced the friction ring on my fly wheel in your case mill it. and then i wrecked my s2000 about a week later.

 

I beat on my clutches straight up. No break in. In my opinion if it is a "performance Clutch" It should perform outa the box.

 

ROFLMAO at clutches needing a break in period. Thats a load of crap. They work or they are defective. I have NEVER had a problem after using the correct procedure of torque on the clutch bolts and pressure plate and going straight to the races.

 

Hell, I used an exedy OEM replacement full face on my cable GSR transmission with my H bolted to the other side, and that held up fine. My H22 sure as hell made a lot more torque than a B16, and I never had a problem.

 

i will just re-place the flywheel and get a good exedy pro kit clutch.

 

I got my flywheel resurfaced for $30 at westbay auto parts.

0.02cents

 

My brother lent me his flywheel (New) exedy lightweight. The clutch is a healthy OEM replacement, but not new.

Now I'm getting a **** load of vibration thru the car, consistant with the engine RPM. I'm really concerned over this. Everything was torqued and doublechecked before it all got put together. The clutch also feels alot heavier then before.