Hi everybody I will be checking out a gsr for sale soon and want to know how to tell the difference between a gsr and a gs/ls. I dont want the guy selling the car to say its a gsr but it really be an ls and get ripped off.

Doesnt the gsr come with abs and gs/ls dont?

 

open the hood, and it will say DOHC VTEC on the valve cover.. if it does say that, then its a GSR.. NO VTEC, NO GSR...

the LS doesnt come with them stock, but its an option, and the GS and GSR, i believe, come with them from the factory..

but yeah..

again, if its a gsr, it will say DOHC VTEC reeeeaaalllly on the engine... you cant miss it

 

Redline is diffrent on the speedometer, GSR has a higher redline than straight LS. Look at the VIN.

 

im assuming it will say b18 or b18c1 in the VIN. Am I correct?

 

look at the vin and if its stock then the cluster should read up to 9k on the rpm

 

just look at the motor.. thats it.. the gauges will tell you more, as well..

the vin doesnt say the engine code.. the engine does...

so yeah.. gauges have 9k max on the rpm, and it should have a dohc vtec motor

 

ok thanks for the help guys

 

no prob.. good luck.. hope you get it..

 

ive seen alot of gsr's with ls motors in them check the vin is the only way to be sure all other parts could have been swapped out.....

 

again, easy way to tell.. LS doesnt have VTEC...

i think you meant LS with GSR swaps in them.. cause then, if you didnt know what else to look for, you would have to check the VIN to be sure...

many people dont BS when they say that they have a gsr for sale, simply because half the people going to look at them would be able to tell.. i mean, they are getting a gs-r for a reason.. lol

 

no the other way around bro lots of people blow gsr's and cannot afford another one so they stick an LS in there to get around ive even seen them with b16's too lol

 

look at the vin should be dc2
look at the head should be p72
look the cluster should have a redline of 8k
look at the intake manifold which has throttle body that sits low
look at the block should be b18c1
look at the ECU should be be p72

 

thats true.. lol.. i almost forgot what it was to know people who arent so arrogant that they wont put an LS in..

yeah.. that can happen.. Listen to the last poster and check all that..

 

check for the vtec solenoid by the valve cover and as long as it says B18C or B18C1 and that only applies for the motor but you also have to check the car and see if its is a GSR cause the motor might be GSR but not the chassis. cause the chassis could be changed out in any kind of way all integra model interior parts fits fine in same kind of year and same model.

 

its simple to just swap a gsr motor into a ls shell. the motor only idicates that the motor itself is a gsr b16 or itr. the vin tells you exactly what it should be from acura

 

CHECK THE VIN!
ALL GSR'S will have different vins then itr, ls, rs.

 

i was thinking the same other than the obvious cluster redline @ 8k for the gs-r, and 7k for the LS/GS.

another thing is LS shell would be a DC4 where the GS-R is a DC2.

 

just in case

vin-*look for DC2 for gsr..

 

wait.....what?

 

The only way to tell if the car is a genuine Acura Integra GS-R is by the VIN number. If's it's a GS-R, the fourth, fifth, and sixth digits in the VIN number will read DC2. Check inside the door jams for a sticker with the VIN number printed on it, obviously the dash, the firewall, ect. I see GS-R's sold all the time with LS/GS/SE/RS motors in them, so it would be wrong to judge what chassis the car is by the engine under the hood. Read the seriel number to the motor. If's it's a GS-R it will read B18C1, if it was replaced by a JDM GS-R it will read B18C. If you want to read deeper into it, another way to tell a GS-R from a base model is by the tachometer in the cluster. A GS-R will read up to 9,000RPM, models under it will read only to 8,000RPM.

Don't just take a look at the tachometer and let that make you believe that it's a GS-R, clusters are swaped in and out of cars all the time. The only real way of knowing is by the VIN on the firewall, the title, and in the dash, make sure all VIN numbers match and have DC2 in them.

 

x2

 

A 94-01 GSR VIN will begin with JH4DC2 (two-door) or JH4DB8 (four door). Also check for "VTEC" on the valve cover. The cluster will also say "Premium Unleaded Fuel Only".

 

So was it a gsr or not?

 

Probaby been said before, GSR vtech head, 87.2mm stroke, 10:1 cr. LS/GS non-vtech, 89mm stroke, 9:1 cr(or something). The GSR has a better motor components to start with, but the are really essentially the same except or the v-tech head, which makes a total difference. The motors have vritually the same potential as parts can be mixed and matched and probably has the biggest aftermarket in the industry. If you plan on NA, get something with vtech(B18C), but with boost, a B18B is a solid choice. You can put ls crank in a gsr and get pr3 pistons. or convert ls to vtech. turbo, blower, na, the options are virtually limitless on the B-series motors.

But all in all, I would start off with a Gsr, cause you also have the different gearbox ratio, factory oil cooler, vtech, and the susp as well. If you plan to leave close to stock, get the GSR for sure

 

DC2 or DB8 on the VIN