I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my jdm H22a motor....But to my surprise the H22a has alot more damage that I had figured..So here I am...I've been doing alot of research regarding the process of the H23vtec...I have both the H23a1 block and H22a block....Im putting alot of consideration towards the H23vtec..But my q/s is it worth it??...I have all the components to make it happen...It isnt gonna be DD..Let me know what you guys think...

Heres my build so far

Jdm H22a head w/ S2 valve train
S2P1 cams
Rmf drag header
Ported Euro R IM
70mm S2 TB
KS Balance shaft kit
QSD H2B kit
CTR trans w/lsd
ACT pro-lite flywheel
ACT clutch
Mahle 11.5:1 pistons
RC 440cc injectors

 

Thats a manly setup, keep the pistons and go H23 crank.

 

the only thing i would make sure is get an LSD in that bad boy

 

I remember reading your thread on the h23v...How did that all turnout..did you find the cause for the engine failure???

 

yea there were a few things i found but i couldnt specifically say it was this or that. i think it was alot of little things that all came together at once. i am slowly taking my steps to rebuild and be ready by maybe april hopefully the latest.

 

If you're already rebuilding and you have the parts, I'd say do it.

 

I would even push into the S2P2 cams.......but I would love to see this setup with S2P1s and a lter on comparison of the S2P2 cams.
Compression should check in close to 12:1 with headwork, head gasket...

 

I've using the compression calculator from zeal autowerks and if I used a stock .30 headgasket compression would be in 13.56:1 range..Ive talked with the guys at cometic and I'm looking at a .56 which'll put my compression at 12.56ish:1..Think thats too high for 93 octane??I really would like to keep this motor streetable.

 

Hopefully my build will be done around the same time...What thickness headgasket did you use??

 

I would re-consult that calculator. Those #s don't make sense.
H23 crank/rods with JDM H22A pistons and a stock HG is >12:1
Are you using the H22 rod length when you calculate? Then yoiur #'s make sense. I can't say I know of anyone that has used the H23 crank with H22 rods before, but Im also NOT sure why someone wouldn't. Piston may stick out of the deck?
Personally I would be considering E85 for this setup.

 

If i used the h22 rods the piston would stick out of the deck...Unless I got custom pistons made...but Im not using the jdm pistons...Im gonna to be using the mahle 11.5:1 pistons w/h23 rods and crank..the piston would stick out .002 thou..but with the thicker head gasket it should drop the compression..But my q/s is how thick??Im just a little concerned with P2V issues cuz of the S2P1 cams...What you think??

 

Less room for manly cams down the road.

 

Well bad news people...I started the tear down with H23a1 block and to my surprise the main bearings are shot and scarred the crank pretty bad...Looks like I have two blocks with bad bearings...haha great...

 

That sucks dude. Look for an F22 block as well, they're the same crank.

 

I'd personally say just buya new crank from Honda and build it right the 1st time.
It will be huge piece of mind.
~$7-800

 

Why not go for an F22 block? The H22 head bolts right on AND you can put your pistons and rods into it. If you are making more than 13.5 to 1 compression with the F22, you need to get a machine shop to install a block guard. Once the block guard is installed and the deck is closed, there is literally NO difference between the H22/H23 blocks EXCEPT for iron sleeves (which I much prefer over the composite liners in the H22/H23 series). The weight gain is fairly insignificant with iron sleeves (8 to 10 pounds) but if you are making 13.5 to 1 comp ratio, your power gain will make up for the added weight (if it is weight you are concerned about). I have built over 10 F22A1 blocks this way and I have never had issues with them. When considering parts for blocks, the F22 is ABUNDANT and I don't think you will have an issue finding an F22 for at least the next 10 to 15 years. Just DONT do what I did, if you ever happen to find an F23A1 from the accord series and are thinking of modding it, DONT. I bought a complete F23A1 with SOHC VTEC head and wanted to put an H22 head on it. I did, and I didn't check the bearings. There ended up being a slight lower end knock on start up. I hunted EVERYWHERE for bearings and the ONLY place you can find them is from Honda and each piece (each semi-circle) is in the $10 to $12 range and you need 10 of them. $100 for bearings!!?? Forget that. I ripped that engine apart and built an F22 with the H22 head. Either way, good luck on your engine building.

 

That was gona be my next move but reality settled ...haha...Maybe when business starts being a lil more consistent then I'll go all out on the next build...But great news I made a few phone calls and a buddy of mine has an h23 crank freshly machine an ready to go..

 

Yea def for the next build Ima wana go with an f22 block and some custom pistons with a higher compression maybe in the 14:1 range idk yet...But I've located a H23 crank ready to go woohooo ..I wana keep this motor streetable so I'm going with a thicker head gasket to drop that compression to around 12.5ish:1..I'm crazy anxious to put this monster together

 

Happy New Years H-T

 

Happy New Years!!!!

I'm going S2P2 cams, S2 Pro valvetrain, Mahle 11.5:1 cr pistons, Eagle rod on my setup. Something not too crazy; just wanted a lil something beefier and have fun with.

 

What bottom end your using??when Im done an if your finished we can compare dyno sheets....

 

the f22a1 sohc and h22a vtec have the same head bolt pattern and the h22a will bolt right on? is that correct?

 

Hmm, $10-$12 a shell? I wonder what's going on for me then. i just bougth some F23 rod bearings and they were only $3.44 each. F23 main bearings were about as cheap also.

BTW F23 bearings are the same as the K20A3 from the EP3 Civic hatch and Acura base RSX.

 

Yes sir it will. Just use the F22 head gasket when you assemble. Depending on which type of H22 head you buy, you may need to plug a hole in the head that drains oil from the valvetrain back down to the oil pan. I remember needing to do this once and I couldn't tell you off the top of my head what series of H22 block this head came off of. To tell if you have the extra hole, take the F22 head gasket and line it up on the H22 head flipped over. You can tell right away. If the extra drain is there, use a 2 part epoxy that is oil resistant or Hondabond to plug it up.

 

Great news guys I found an H23 block hopefully everything checks out good......also just picked up a CTR trans w/lsd.....If everything goes as planned I should have this done by late april..