Next set of mods for noticeable power gain
I have a b16 w/ CAI and full 2 and 1/4 exhaust. I would like to make some mods that will really make a difference in power. I have around 2500 bucks to spend, and got the motor form HMO so I don't really know how many miles are on it. Should I mess with new cams, vtec/fuel controllers, and head work or save up for a turbo setup. Any input is appreciated.
CTR intake cam, valvesprings and retainers, skunk2 lightweight valves, throttle body and intake manifold, mugen head gasket, light weight flywheel and clutch (toda and exedy
) DC 4-1 header with 2.5 " collector. if you have some time, have the runners on the head hogged, (sharpened) and port it out a little bit. AEM standalone with the change. HA!
[Modified by wreckedhatch, 9:35 PM 9/3/2002]
) DC 4-1 header with 2.5 " collector. if you have some time, have the runners on the head hogged, (sharpened) and port it out a little bit. AEM standalone with the change. HA![Modified by wreckedhatch, 9:35 PM 9/3/2002]
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if your want to turbo turbo... P&P head lower your compression or boost less. will be more expensive in the long run but higher gins hp wise.
NA: ctr cams (longest duration out of any oem cam) or crane crower etc. (increases hp) you WILL need to add more fuel (8hp usually w/ oem cams, up to 30 w/ aftermarket ones)
valve train, springs, retainers over sized valves (higher redline, extended power curve)
P&P head (<=30hp)
lightened flywheel (kicks *** on the freeway hard too hookup on launch w/o good tires and suspension
vafc for vtec activation at desired rpm. also you can adjust your fuel maps (great w/ cams)
nitro: ghey boost but works 30 to 85485643865-843 hp
suspension, suspension is VERY important when launching or racing (real racing, draging isnt racing, thats shifting)
weight reduction. fully gutted hatch is usually 5mph increase out of every gear
adjustable cam gears dunno hp, has to be tuned on a dyno
lots of NA **** aplies to fi. fi key is low compression, low duration high lift on cams, strengthed internals
na key is high duration low lift on cams, high compression
jg intake manifolds (na or fi) and exhaust manifold ( na) own
port an itr t boddy, aftermarket ones tend to bend and **** up (they're alumninum)
pullys help, get rid of power steering and ac
best mod is this: planning. look at wallet, look at time slip every seccond w/ bolt ons is about $1,000
however freemods cant be beat
[Modified by TorteX, 3:43 PM 9/3/2002]
NA: ctr cams (longest duration out of any oem cam) or crane crower etc. (increases hp) you WILL need to add more fuel (8hp usually w/ oem cams, up to 30 w/ aftermarket ones)
valve train, springs, retainers over sized valves (higher redline, extended power curve)
P&P head (<=30hp)
lightened flywheel (kicks *** on the freeway hard too hookup on launch w/o good tires and suspension
vafc for vtec activation at desired rpm. also you can adjust your fuel maps (great w/ cams)
nitro: ghey boost but works 30 to 85485643865-843 hp
suspension, suspension is VERY important when launching or racing (real racing, draging isnt racing, thats shifting)
weight reduction. fully gutted hatch is usually 5mph increase out of every gear
adjustable cam gears dunno hp, has to be tuned on a dyno
lots of NA **** aplies to fi. fi key is low compression, low duration high lift on cams, strengthed internals
na key is high duration low lift on cams, high compression
jg intake manifolds (na or fi) and exhaust manifold ( na) own
port an itr t boddy, aftermarket ones tend to bend and **** up (they're alumninum)
pullys help, get rid of power steering and ac
best mod is this: planning. look at wallet, look at time slip every seccond w/ bolt ons is about $1,000
however freemods cant be beat[Modified by TorteX, 3:43 PM 9/3/2002]
http://www.gude.com
email them about their head package about 2 grand after core gets you a whole new head. email them and they will send you dyno charts and whathave you
email them about their head package about 2 grand after core gets you a whole new head. email them and they will send you dyno charts and whathave you
You might also want to buy a header. Headers don't do much for a stock B16A. But if you are going to get cams or do port work, they will be very beneficial.
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Headers don't do much for a stock B16A
you are 100% wrong
a 2.5" collector header is one of the best mods you can do
cold air doesnt do **** except kill throttle response
Ctr Cams/Itr Valve Train, or some aftermarket cams, port and polish, jdm 4-1, Itr ported tb, Skunk 2 Manifold, tuning, maybe a small shot of nitrous. For the money you could probably get a head package from somewhere.
Turbo would be nice, but I'd have some more money after that saved up
Turbo would be nice, but I'd have some more money after that saved up
Just do a custom turbo setup! Your stock engine will be fine if you keep the boost low (8 psi) And if you get really good engine managment (Hondata, Zydne) You can run even more! You could get a greddy SOHC kit for 1500 or less if you can get it used and have a really nice setup that should get you in the 13's easly. The extra 1000 would pay for a Zdyne GOLD SECU + 450 CC injectors.
Can I just say turbo again?
I am sure you are well aware of this page, if not then great! It is a nice site to learn how to build your own.
Just do a custom turbo setup! Your stock engine will be fine if you keep the boost low (8 psi) And if you get really good engine managment (Hondata, Zydne) You can run even more! You could get a greddy SOHC kit for 1500 or less if you can get it used and have a really nice setup that should get you in the 13's easly. The extra 1000 would pay for a Zdyne GOLD SECU + 450 CC injectors.
prolly run 9-10 psi boost. on stock internals.
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