Cheap 2" drop for a 98 Acura CL?
How is it going? New to the site, new to imports. I picked up a 98 Acura CL 3.0 I need pointers on lowering the car onto the 16 wheels that are now on there.. 16 x 8 with 225 55 16s, I just want the car to sit nicely, don't want it slammed to where it's scraping or bottoming out, maybe a 1.5" to 2" max drop at all 4 corners..
Right now there is a 3" gap in there and it looks stupid with the wheels I put on. If I get the body flush with the wheels, no more gap it should look right.. I am not looking for race tuned suspension or anything expensive. I am also living in FL so the roads are smooth.. Simple, cheap, effective, cheap, reliable, cheap, don't want to replace tires and struts every 3K miles either.. What's the way to go?
Any info would be greatly appreciated..
Right now there is a 3" gap in there and it looks stupid with the wheels I put on. If I get the body flush with the wheels, no more gap it should look right.. I am not looking for race tuned suspension or anything expensive. I am also living in FL so the roads are smooth.. Simple, cheap, effective, cheap, reliable, cheap, don't want to replace tires and struts every 3K miles either.. What's the way to go?
Any info would be greatly appreciated..
The Eibach springs lower the car like an inch and half I believe, retains a really nice ride. Basically all it does is make the fender gap less severe, goes from about 5 fingers to 2.
Installed them on my buddy's 98 CL and he's got not complaints.
Installed them on my buddy's 98 CL and he's got not complaints.
Thanks fellas. LOL on the best to worst with Ebay coils dead last..
I do need new struts for the front, I think the right side may have been tweaked from the accident although it looks fine, that side is sitting a bit higher than the other 3 corners, the car also has a bit of a stiff ride, seems to jolt over bumps at that corner.
With that in mind (new struts for the front) should I go with Eibachs? One other thing, will putting shorter springs onto stock struts compromise their reliability? Again, I live in FL and the roads are very smooth, easy on the suspension and I don't ever plan on getting any performance out of this ride but I do not want the hassle of having to replace stuts often from blown seals.... Read the sticky on here for proper alignment best for tire wear on lowered cars, camber kits are not necessary..
A change of subject..
I did put a killer stereo system in there, 2) JL 12W7s in a 6 CF box (entire trunk floor is an enclosure) with a legit 2200 watts of old school A/B power, not D Class, bass hits like an earthquake, cellar deep but really tight and controlled, very accurate. I get a smooth accurate response from 26HZ to 70HZ.. Also going to build a custom door pod setup where I will be running Hybrid Audio 3 way front stage L8s L4s L1V2s (8" midbass, 4" midrange and tweeters all Hybrid Audio) Clarion DRZ9255 HU, all old school PPI Art series amps including a pair of A1200.2s for subs (1 per sub) an A600.2 for midbass, A300.2 for mids and an A200.2 for tweets.. before the Hybrids, I had Boston Pros powered by Mmats 4 channels and a Mmats D class on the subs (about 2200 watts to the subs, with over 600 watts to the 3 way front stage) the sound was amazing as I am able to control delays plus crossover points and slopes for every channel, after a week of tuning, the system sounded better than my home system which is no joke
SQL is the goal and I do not try to match the sub output with front stage.. When I put in Bass Mekanik the car feels like it's going to explode.. I have 2 modes for listening.. Bass mode and real music mode.. Pretty much explains itself..
Going to respray the car in Satin Black, tint the windows and put a satin black powdercoat over the polished alum wheels giving them a black chrome look.. Going to polish out all my Art Series amps and have the same tinted powedercoat put over those, I found someone that redoes the graphics, so the amps will be custom.. If you know Art Series amps, you know what I mean. They look amazing in black with the pastel graphics..
Anyone/place in FL that I can pick up a nice set of gray leather seats from? The passenger side seat track is broken, need to replace the track or seat I figure why not put some leather in there.. I also need the bezel that fits the center console for the radio and accessories if anyone has one for sale.
Back to the subject.. Need new struts, so Eiback lowering springs a good solution? A flush with wheel type look is what I'm after...
Thanks again, Merry New Year fellas..
I do need new struts for the front, I think the right side may have been tweaked from the accident although it looks fine, that side is sitting a bit higher than the other 3 corners, the car also has a bit of a stiff ride, seems to jolt over bumps at that corner.
With that in mind (new struts for the front) should I go with Eibachs? One other thing, will putting shorter springs onto stock struts compromise their reliability? Again, I live in FL and the roads are very smooth, easy on the suspension and I don't ever plan on getting any performance out of this ride but I do not want the hassle of having to replace stuts often from blown seals.... Read the sticky on here for proper alignment best for tire wear on lowered cars, camber kits are not necessary..
A change of subject..
I did put a killer stereo system in there, 2) JL 12W7s in a 6 CF box (entire trunk floor is an enclosure) with a legit 2200 watts of old school A/B power, not D Class, bass hits like an earthquake, cellar deep but really tight and controlled, very accurate. I get a smooth accurate response from 26HZ to 70HZ.. Also going to build a custom door pod setup where I will be running Hybrid Audio 3 way front stage L8s L4s L1V2s (8" midbass, 4" midrange and tweeters all Hybrid Audio) Clarion DRZ9255 HU, all old school PPI Art series amps including a pair of A1200.2s for subs (1 per sub) an A600.2 for midbass, A300.2 for mids and an A200.2 for tweets.. before the Hybrids, I had Boston Pros powered by Mmats 4 channels and a Mmats D class on the subs (about 2200 watts to the subs, with over 600 watts to the 3 way front stage) the sound was amazing as I am able to control delays plus crossover points and slopes for every channel, after a week of tuning, the system sounded better than my home system which is no joke
SQL is the goal and I do not try to match the sub output with front stage.. When I put in Bass Mekanik the car feels like it's going to explode.. I have 2 modes for listening.. Bass mode and real music mode.. Pretty much explains itself..Going to respray the car in Satin Black, tint the windows and put a satin black powdercoat over the polished alum wheels giving them a black chrome look.. Going to polish out all my Art Series amps and have the same tinted powedercoat put over those, I found someone that redoes the graphics, so the amps will be custom.. If you know Art Series amps, you know what I mean. They look amazing in black with the pastel graphics..
Anyone/place in FL that I can pick up a nice set of gray leather seats from? The passenger side seat track is broken, need to replace the track or seat I figure why not put some leather in there.. I also need the bezel that fits the center console for the radio and accessories if anyone has one for sale.
Back to the subject.. Need new struts, so Eiback lowering springs a good solution? A flush with wheel type look is what I'm after...
Thanks again, Merry New Year fellas..
Last edited by lust4sound; Dec 25, 2009 at 02:13 PM.
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