my father and i just got our 89 crx si on track yesterday. aside from the fuel starvation problem that he posted about from the track, we learned that the suspension is more worn out than it seemed. so while hes working on the fuel, in going to be workingwith a 20 year old. 300,000 mile suspension.

we have already purchased the hardrace bushing kit forr the car, after a BUNCH of threads on here. one thing that i have not read or seen talked about much is the install or alignment. i tried searching, but sisnt seem to find a whole lot. lot of ricer stuff about ebay coil overs and cutting springs, as well as istalling said parts and not being able to align it.

so, a coupke of questions.
1. any tricks for the bushings, other than the normal freeze the bushings, heat the control arms, and get it intp the press really quick? i also know about the air chisel and oxy-aceteline. ive done a lot of suspension rebuilds, just never a honda. anything i need to look out for?
2. what is a good baseline? i know everybody has their own preferred specs, but having never done a FWD track car before, i dont know where to start. especially on the rear.

thanks for any help you can gove me. and the upcoming lesson on the search fucntion that i know is coming.

michael

 

i usually press the bushings right out via the sleeve. some times it takes a little heat bu for the most part they come out. just take your time.
as for suspension (shocks, spring rates, sway bars), if its still a street car on street tires i'd go with either some PIC coilovers or koni/ground control. sways i'd go with the crx hf front bar (larger but hollow) and either a suspension technique rear bar if u can find one or the asr (which i don't like because if its mounting point but whatever). spring rates i'd start with 500ish up front, and around the same in the rear. eventually you'll add more rear spring as needed.

 

A CRX is an awesome car,short wheelbase = fun!

1. You should also need a good press and proper die-tools to do the bushings.
2. A good base alignment helps alot.Most would probably agree 0-1/16" toe out front and 0 rear toe, and maybe 2.5-3 degree front camber 2 degree rear,and adjust from there as you get used to the setup.

Since you are just getting started keep in mind,Springs,shocks and Tires are the first things that should be dialed in as they have the most impact on handling.

 

Michael here is the lesson on search.
Keep your searches with in the forum short in nature. There is a search faq on how to get the most of your search.
There is alot of archived information out there you just have to sift through it and find what works and applies to you.
Simplify what you do to the car at first...
You both seem like you have mechanical abilities so wrenching isnt your big issue , its the unfamiliarity of the car itself.
If you dont have a haynes manual go get one now.
There are some actual factory honda manuals online for download free but off hand I dont know what site has them.
What experience on track do you both have?
If your just starting out keep your upgrades to a minimum and get the seat time.
Theres a huge misconception that one should go out and buy everything there is to make the car handle better. In esscense most beginers dont know what will or won't work with each other, and some parts cancel out another parts effectiveness.

Most of the forum members run Honda Challenge like the two who posted before me and have a wealth of knowledge. I have to lament their comments as thats pretty much where i started.
I like the hardrace bushings, and use them myself.
I have heard of people having issues with them (installing) but if you take Spencers advice and take your time in removing them and putting them back in you should have little trouble.
Another option is to buy the whole component with the hardrace bushings already in.
Its more expensive but the alternative to getting angry should you bend something while installing the new bushings it pays for itself in less headaches.
I know Special Projects Motorsports carries the whole shabangabang in case your looking for a complete distributor.
Good Luck guys and let us know how the fuel situation pans out.

 

my father is an instructor with a ton of experience. le and won tt with tarheel this year. im an intermediate de student yet.

he drives corvettes, i have driven subarus, vettes, and trucks.

so were not entirely new to driving, just FWD. thats why were starting with the basics of getting the car safe and stable, then working with spring rates and sway bars, etc. just trying to get it baselined.

thanks for the help.
micheal

 

You two are old hands at this then..
Dive in and have fun.

 

I would seriously consider getting all the parts with pre installed bushings from Special Projects.

Some of the control arm bushings were damm near impossible, and it would have been very, very easy to mangle some parts if we had not been keeping a close eye on what we were doing. This was on a mostly garage kept car with 130k miles. I can only imagine what yours will be like.

If your time is worth anything to you the price of the parts is well worth the money.

 

its easy.. all hondas are like LEGOS u cant mess it up unless ur really dumb.. the rear bottom bolts for the forks might be rusted and brake while removal.. other then that its LEGOS

 

1: for the bushing remove, I am making and selling bushing remove kit, which you don't need take your arms or part right out of the chassie or heavy press. all you need is air wrench and clamp, for myself I can change all the rear end bush in 1hour.
2: for the alignment, its really up to the track you in. and as you said you really need time to find a setting for your own style. I would suggest you for twist and tide track, had more angle at front toe in than rear toe out. so the car can point to the apex earlier. bigger angle at rear than front for camber, so the under the brake the rear end will by move easily. but for long stright and high speed corner, had more angle at front toe in than rear toe in. bigger angle at front than rear for camber, so the car will more stable in high speed.

as I said those are just baseline, which you really need to spend time to find out for your own style. Have fun and good luck!!

 

*Sawzall with Milwaukee TORCH blades @ lower speed for cutting the lower bolts
*Propane torch for burning out old bushings
*Hacksaw for old bushing's rings (disassembled & looped into the hole)
*Vice & lots of silicone lube for the new bushings.

If you're doing new OEM's, a press & only a press. Also, if you change the large bushing in the rear trailing arm, A) there is a special tool you can use if your press is too small, B) make sure to install it at the new angle the lower suspension rides at.

I'm sure you understand somewhat how FWD's work, you want the rear suspension very stiff to rotate the car. The crx rear sway mounts to the frame rails, not the lower bulkhead, so there's almost no chance it will rip like newer models.

 

If you are going to buy a small torch Dont waste time with propane buy a mapp gas torch kit from home depot.