So i got a 1992 Honda civic with a full 1995 Integra ls swap in it 100% including the ecu.No check engine lights on.Its been in my car for about 3 months running perfectly i drove car 3 days ago and 2 days ago i got in car and started it kinda hesitated but figured it was because its cold out.went to drive it and it was extremely slow it had zero power until higher rpm and it still wasn't 100%.The car is a stick shift and i have had my boyfriend and his friend(an ex Ferrari mechanic) look at it and they
1-replaced cat converter
2-checked timing marks
3-checked fuel pressure
4-replaced fuel pressure regulator
5-checked spark plugs(very white)
6-replaced throttle body and both sensors on it
7-checked the iac
8-checked throttle cable
9-swap ecu
10-replace spark plugs,dizzy cap,rotor
it's got a carbon fiber whale *****,dc sport 1 piece header,high flow cat,stock Integra exhaust,ngk wires,ngk plugs

 

Depending on whether or not you removed the timing belt before istalling the motor, are you SURE you got the timing dead on? I mean, and to be honest, I once got it off a little, and the car had NO *****. When the cam timing is off, even by a little, the results can be huge. It's happened to me, and i've seen it many times. Recheck the timing and make sure you aren't being fooled by using the wrong timing marks.

Also, make sure you didn't somehow get the tps and map sensor connectors mismatched. It can happen, especially with OBD2 cars.

 

Have you done a compression test?

 

how's the car idle? did it shake? cold start? after warm up? any smoke from tail pipe? rev engine any bogging? neutral rev rpm and ingear driving rpm? have to be very specific, it's difficult to diagnose a car that's not infront of me

 

ok update i did a compression test it was 160 on all four cylinders seemed a little dry like ot enough fuel when pulled out of the cylinders
put a snap on computer on it injectors are getting 3.3 mil at idle and like 13.90 at driving hard and that with timing retarded 45%
mechanic said if timing was off we would have uneven and bad compression along all the cylinders he thinks its fuel related

 

also took fuel rail off and replaced injectors with another set i had laying around and replaced fuel filter with a brand new one still nothing i am stumped
if gas tank is crushed up on passenger side kinda bad would this cause a problem??? i am gonna buy a new gas tank at junkyard with a sending unit since mine is broke and replace even if it dont fix bogging issue my fuel gauge will work

 

btw checked timing again the cam gears line up perfectly and at idle it runs perfect only when you decide to go it runs like crap like fuel starvation mechanic said car is running super lean and if i continue to drive i could blow the engine all he can suggest is to buy a apexi safc and tue car through that so it doesnt run so lean

 

its a stock car. pointless to have the apexi safc...your car will run worse. also check your ground wires

 

while would it run worse i can adjust the air and fuel going in im also gonna probably throw my 440cc injectors in it as well that are for my turbo setup

 

while=why

 

i wouldnt put those injectors in there. it'll get wayy to much fuel especially since u cant tune the car. id check engine grounds with an ohm meter like dude said above. check on block and valve cover for a resistance reading of something like .0012 or so. it should be a small number like that when u touch probes to valve cover and block.

 

do you know how to tune? is the question, plus those injectors are useless as of right now with the stock ecu and stock motor. use them once you have the turbo in. and again you'll need another tune with the turbo installed. ditch the safc and get a chipped ecu for the love of God

 

chipped ecu do you know anything a chip is useless did you read my problem is its running lean so ill get a safc and add fuel where it needs it and air as well it will be chipped once it is turbo and on a dyno i am not putting a car with a password jdm carbon whale **** dc one piece header high flow cat and stock 2 inch integra exhaust id put 440 injectors in so i can push 260 or so not the stock 220 out of the injectors theres an old saying its better to run rich then to run lean ill also put the snp on comp which will tell me all my stats and where the timing is and adjust it from there as well

 

wish you were local you could see how shitty this thing runs its really weird

 

obviously you dont know jack about cars and tuning...do some research and educate yourself...its a stock motor and a stock ecu if its running lean then your issue is somewhere else...but do whatever you got to do since it seems like you have a heading

 

yeah, ur plan doesnt sound too great honestly. the problem started out of nowhere am i right? does it run fine when it gets up to operating temp? u left that out. if its a problem trust me..that safc aint gonna do **** and throwing 440's on a stock ls is more than likely gonna wash out ur cylinders and basically **** that motor up. sounds like ur "mechanic" should stick to things with carbs and such. people on here are trying to help, ur not makin very logical assumptions

 

it runs crappy when cold and even crappier when heated up he moved the distributor 45degrees and its running better but still not 100% ok so i wont do the 440cc injectors ill keep my stock ones but other then that if i set the safc to oem specs to over ride a few of the oem settings maybe the tps or something else is bad i honestly dont have alot of money to say maybe a tps then its not problem there is NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON so there is zero codes being thrown

 

new tps from omni is like $75 shipped new o2 is like $75 shipped there the only 2 things i replaced with used crap that was laying around ??? or gas tank is screwed up like maybe it has to be full to get enough fuel??
took out the fuel pump and checked the sock it is clean hum

 

oh im using a 62mm f series throttle body could this be a problem maybe tps and map read different

 

ok another thing im thinking about buying a blox 68mm throttle body from kingmotorsports and a blox map sensor found sensor for $40 plus shipping i've been wanting to upgrade the throttle body anyway figure why not do it now also a hondata thermal tb gasket will be in the mix as well if these parts dont fix problem at least i can have the piece of mind knowing all three parts are not the problem and then go from there also theres ngk wires on the car dont know if maybe there getting old im gonna replace em with some msd 10mm wires or maybe some nology hotwires? anyone use these wires if so give me your input

 

then i will buy a safc and go from there

 

meant to say an intake manifold gasket

 

and a hondata 4bar map sensor then we will see whats up

 

ok i am gonna have to say scratch adding those parts i was using the bathroom and reading an older issue of honda tuning and think i have found my problem i believe the ecu is shot why????well heat you say how?
well honda injectors rely on constant power for their pulse widths -the ecu supplies ground-therefore,the injectors open and close based upon ground signals dictated by the ecu

 

under hard driving conditions or alot of going up hills-i live in north jersey in the country thats all we have up here mountains and stuff-so the ecu would have the ground alot more and then the ecu would get hot i tryed to use a p06 ecu from a d15 it ran a little better but not perfect i need a 1995 ls ecu