Rear Camber.....
Ok I bought the Skunk2 front camber kit for my car,but couldn't bring myself to buy the rear because of the price. Is it worth it? They run about $150 and good ol' ebay has some for about $50. The front I can understand pay for the good ****, but the back not much to it. Anybody useing the skunk2 rear kit and again is it worth it?
You don't need front nor rear camber kits. Get an alignment done and have them set the toe to zero and you'll be fine. Save the money or spend it on better things
then just get the rear shim kits. it just pushes your rear control arm out by shimming the bushing bolts.
you really dont need a camber kit anyway. you just need an alignment to fix the toe. youre going to need an alignment once you put those kits on regardless.
you really dont need a camber kit anyway. you just need an alignment to fix the toe. youre going to need an alignment once you put those kits on regardless.
Judging from the height of your car in the build thread, you don't need them. Use the money on putting in fresh bushing, balljoints, shocks, or anything else that is worn out down there.
A good alignment will suffice. Negative camber is good for handling. Hard cornering will put side load on the tire, so having negative camber will help utilize more of the tire's contact patch when load is exerted. It will go from \\ to l l when you corner instead of l l to // when using a camber kit and setting it to 0.
A good alignment will suffice. Negative camber is good for handling. Hard cornering will put side load on the tire, so having negative camber will help utilize more of the tire's contact patch when load is exerted. It will go from \\ to l l when you corner instead of l l to // when using a camber kit and setting it to 0.
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if your gonna do the front you should do the back. If you dont want to spend the money for the rear just get longer bolts and put some washers to space out the arm. and if you do get a alignment you dont want your toe at 0 if your runinng real negeative camber, you want it toed in about 1/16 to 2/32. i dont get why everyone on here always says dont worry about your alignment or camber kits are a waste of money. if you dont want to wear your tires out in 10,000 miles or less, camber kits and alignments on lowered honda is a must.
Nobody is saying "don't worry about alignment". Were saying don't worry about camber and DO get an alignment to fix bad toe. Toe is what causes tires to wear prematurely, not camber. If you think its camber, then you're mistaken about how much toe is probably off too.
Btw 1/16 = 2/32 chief. I prefer toe out personally, if at all.
Btw 1/16 = 2/32 chief. I prefer toe out personally, if at all.
Ok takein in what you guys said this is what I'm going to do.Going to run front and rear with kits at -1.5 and the toe at 0 that way I have a lil negative camber for turning and keep my tires ok.
your insane to tell me camber dosent wear out tires. camber and toe are both tire wearing angles. so your telling me if your camber is 3 degrees negative and your toe is 0 your not going to get inside tire wear?
Well I sure the hell don't know thats why I'm asking about this...lol I was always told camber kit is the way to go, my question was can I just get a cheap kit for the back.
you can get a cheap kit for the back or like i said get longer bolts and use washers to space out the arm. and what i said before wasnt directed at you.
and no im not insane. its been proven over and over. on my own car, and many others who didnt believe it, got an alignment, posted their results and have not complained since.
your late to the discussion. do a search if you want to see the countless times ive had to explain it to noobs. or just click above on the faq.
you can have your ignorant opinion, but dont call me insane
yes, thats what im saying.
and no im not insane. its been proven over and over. on my own car, and many others who didnt believe it, got an alignment, posted their results and have not complained since.
your late to the discussion. do a search if you want to see the countless times ive had to explain it to noobs. or just click above on the faq.
you can have your ignorant opinion, but dont call me insane
and no im not insane. its been proven over and over. on my own car, and many others who didnt believe it, got an alignment, posted their results and have not complained since.
your late to the discussion. do a search if you want to see the countless times ive had to explain it to noobs. or just click above on the faq.
you can have your ignorant opinion, but dont call me insane

yes, thats what im saying.
and no im not insane. its been proven over and over. on my own car, and many others who didnt believe it, got an alignment, posted their results and have not complained since.
your late to the discussion. do a search if you want to see the countless times ive had to explain it to noobs. or just click above on the faq.
you can have your ignorant opinion, but dont call me insane
and no im not insane. its been proven over and over. on my own car, and many others who didnt believe it, got an alignment, posted their results and have not complained since.
your late to the discussion. do a search if you want to see the countless times ive had to explain it to noobs. or just click above on the faq.
you can have your ignorant opinion, but dont call me insane

no, not magic, but double wishbone suspension. which controls camber in a much different way than a macpherson strut.
ok speaking in relativity to where the tire contacts the ground, its not straight up and down so the wear is not going to be even, it doesnt matter what type of suspension it is all that matters is how the tire contacts the ground
Actually, not as you say.
Tire sidewalls flex. Tires are pneumatic and stretch like a balloon to create equal pressure on all surfaces. Of course a tire isn't built like a balloon but its not a solid ring of rubber either.
Tires don't wear driving straight. Unless you want to call 30k to 60k miles of normal use "wear". When a tire is rolling, the tire patch maintans grip on the same piece of pavement for the short duration its in contact with the ground. So even if you had say a canted tire patch, how's it going to wear that much faster?
Tires wear by slip. Like when you stress out the treads or even lose grip past its slip angle. That occurs most significantly in turns. When body roll and suspension dynamics turn that negative camber more positive naturally. I dunno about you but I like grip in turns..... Excessive toe will be like contantly turning, but not going straight. That's why it needs to be corrected.
Now the big exception to camber not wearing tires is that when you do straight line burnouts or brake hard constantly. In those situation you are slipping the tires, and stressing out the tread in that cambered position, evewn worse while braking and the fronts get loaded up (more camber).
Break the myths. I've spoken to several alignment technicians, they all say they learned camber wears tires, but realized later its really the toe. I guess some just don't care to learns outside the box, even after 10 years of working in a garage all their life.
Tire sidewalls flex. Tires are pneumatic and stretch like a balloon to create equal pressure on all surfaces. Of course a tire isn't built like a balloon but its not a solid ring of rubber either.
Tires don't wear driving straight. Unless you want to call 30k to 60k miles of normal use "wear". When a tire is rolling, the tire patch maintans grip on the same piece of pavement for the short duration its in contact with the ground. So even if you had say a canted tire patch, how's it going to wear that much faster?
Tires wear by slip. Like when you stress out the treads or even lose grip past its slip angle. That occurs most significantly in turns. When body roll and suspension dynamics turn that negative camber more positive naturally. I dunno about you but I like grip in turns..... Excessive toe will be like contantly turning, but not going straight. That's why it needs to be corrected.
Now the big exception to camber not wearing tires is that when you do straight line burnouts or brake hard constantly. In those situation you are slipping the tires, and stressing out the tread in that cambered position, evewn worse while braking and the fronts get loaded up (more camber).
Break the myths. I've spoken to several alignment technicians, they all say they learned camber wears tires, but realized later its really the toe. I guess some just don't care to learns outside the box, even after 10 years of working in a garage all their life.
i do call normal use wear
i realize tires stretch but only to a certain degree, not enough to make the same equal ground contact with negative camber as it wld standing straight
and i am reffering to all driving conditions not just rolling around the parking lot, including hard braking, hard acceleration etc.
you just cant change the fact that there are 3 tire wearing angles Camber, Caster, and Toe
i realize tires stretch but only to a certain degree, not enough to make the same equal ground contact with negative camber as it wld standing straight
and i am reffering to all driving conditions not just rolling around the parking lot, including hard braking, hard acceleration etc.
you just cant change the fact that there are 3 tire wearing angles Camber, Caster, and Toe
ok, let me rephrase the question.
which wear angle is most important?
specifically, which angle due to lowering a car will wear out a tire in the way that most ppl have issues with?
honestly, my point is not that camber has zero wear. its not THE wear that ppl should be as concerned about as much as ppl are. when it is the toe, the silent tire killer that camber gets all the blame for, because ppl can visually see the difference of camber more than toe, and there is an obvious physical correlation between the two, but not as likely as you described above.
which wear angle is most important?
specifically, which angle due to lowering a car will wear out a tire in the way that most ppl have issues with?
honestly, my point is not that camber has zero wear. its not THE wear that ppl should be as concerned about as much as ppl are. when it is the toe, the silent tire killer that camber gets all the blame for, because ppl can visually see the difference of camber more than toe, and there is an obvious physical correlation between the two, but not as likely as you described above.



