What is an input shaft bearing?!
Sup pps!!
1999 Honda Civic DX
1998 D16Y8
1998 EX transmission
Exedy Clutch kit
When my motor was swapped back in January, the shop installed a new clutch disc but re used the stock pressure plate and throw out bearing.
It was running fine but the engine was making noises as if the bearings were going out. But when I held the clutch in, the noises went away so its the throw out bearing. Then I started hearing a horrible sounding noise coming from the transmission upon acceleration. I only hear it in 1st and 2nd, and it usually starts at around 3500RPMs. Its like a loud hissing/grinding noise that doesn't go away till I shift.
Also, my VSS would work fine till the noise kicked in, then it was all twacked out and would bounce around.
So I swapped out the whole clutch set up last weekend and the car was running like a champ with no odd noises. Now 100 miles later the noise is back!!!!
Ive heard something about the input shaft bearing, is that whats wrong with my tranny??
1999 Honda Civic DX
1998 D16Y8
1998 EX transmission
Exedy Clutch kit
When my motor was swapped back in January, the shop installed a new clutch disc but re used the stock pressure plate and throw out bearing.
It was running fine but the engine was making noises as if the bearings were going out. But when I held the clutch in, the noises went away so its the throw out bearing. Then I started hearing a horrible sounding noise coming from the transmission upon acceleration. I only hear it in 1st and 2nd, and it usually starts at around 3500RPMs. Its like a loud hissing/grinding noise that doesn't go away till I shift.
Also, my VSS would work fine till the noise kicked in, then it was all twacked out and would bounce around.
So I swapped out the whole clutch set up last weekend and the car was running like a champ with no odd noises. Now 100 miles later the noise is back!!!!
Ive heard something about the input shaft bearing, is that whats wrong with my tranny??
Jesus man. SEARCH. Come on, you've been here for two years, 3300+ posts.
This is the most common D-Series tranny problem, there are TONS of other threads.
SEARCH.
This is the most common D-Series tranny problem, there are TONS of other threads.
SEARCH.
I searched but people keep talking about the ISB and TOB as if it was the same thing and I dont know what they are talking about.
So for sure its the ISB and I gotta crack the tranny open? fuuuuuuuu I dropped the tranny 2 weeks ago with my cousin in about 2 hours so hopefully we can do it faster this time.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/minster...7622081878968/
Which one would you say the ISB is??
Im thinking of dropping the whole tranny and seeing if the local shop can swap it out if my cousin cant. I dont think hes certified in trannys.
Which one would you say the ISB is??
Im thinking of dropping the whole tranny and seeing if the local shop can swap it out if my cousin cant. I dont think hes certified in trannys.
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ISB = Input shaft bearing.
Located on the inside of the transmission, clutch-side housing. The shaft you see protruding through the transmission housing, that's your input shaft. This takes the spinning load while the transmission is in gear.
TOB = Throwout bearing.
Located on the outside of the transmission, clutch-side housing. Connected to the clutch fork, and around the input shaft. Takes the spinning load while the transmission is out of gear.
Located on the inside of the transmission, clutch-side housing. The shaft you see protruding through the transmission housing, that's your input shaft. This takes the spinning load while the transmission is in gear.
TOB = Throwout bearing.
Located on the outside of the transmission, clutch-side housing. Connected to the clutch fork, and around the input shaft. Takes the spinning load while the transmission is out of gear.
damn a throw out bearing... i need to replace mine, everytime i let off of the clutch you can hear it, it sounds like the bearings are either very dry, or a few have flat spots...come on tax time!
TOB = grinding when clutch is pressed
ISB = grinding when clutch is out
Thank you very much. Would you know if theres a DIY floating around for this? It looks like it should just pop out and replace but ive never seen the inside of a transmission.
It wouldnt bug me so much but it really slows the car down once the noise "kicks in", it feels like someone is pulling the car back lol.
Just my fcking luck.
It wouldnt bug me so much but it really slows the car down once the noise "kicks in", it feels like someone is pulling the car back lol.
Just my fcking luck.
Well ..... hmm. Here's a BASIC lack-luster how-to:
1) Drop transmission. Set the transmission, input-shaft down on some blocks of wood or cinder blocks, so the shaft doesn't touch the ground.
2) Open transmission:
- Take out the counter shaft plug (takes a 3/8 drive ratchet)
- You'll need to get snap-ring pliers to remove the circlip from around the counter shaft
- After you've removed all the housing bolts, and freed the counter shaft from the gear housing, the gear housing and clutch housing will separate. You may have to pry, as they are stuck together with Super-Gray RTV II.
3) Unbolt the reverse mechanism, and remove the fork, gear, and shaft.
4) Lift out the main shaft and counter-shaft as one unit. This is heavy and sharp. It sucks. Wear gloves.
5) Remove the differential. Again, gloves.
6) Using a slide-hammer and a bearing puller, remove the ISB from the clutch housing.
7) While you're in there, remove and replace the axle seals from both the clutch housing (this is why we took out the differential) and the gear housing. For installing all seals and bearings, use Honda Super-Urea Grease. It's green, stinks, and kicks ***.
8) Pound the new ISB (lubed up) into the clutch housing with a bearing race driver and a dead-blow mallet.
9) Using a green scotch pad, remove all the RTV from the sealing surfaces of the transmission. Flush the ENTIRE transmission out with some brake cleaner. Get out all the metal shavings and scraped-off RTV. Let it dry.
10) Replace the differential. Place the gearset back in as a whole unit. Replace the reverse mechanism.
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SITS COMPLETELY FLUSH, GODDAMNIT LIKE 1MM CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE.
11) Spread a thin layer of Super-Gray RTV II on the matings sufaces. Put the gear housing back on the clutch housing. Lower it back down with snap-ring pliers, holding the counter shaft circlip open. Bolt together in a star pattern.
13) If the circlip wouldn't snap back into place, drop (like I mean SLAM) the gear-housing on a thick phone book. This should pop it into place.
1) Drop transmission. Set the transmission, input-shaft down on some blocks of wood or cinder blocks, so the shaft doesn't touch the ground.
2) Open transmission:
- Take out the counter shaft plug (takes a 3/8 drive ratchet)
- You'll need to get snap-ring pliers to remove the circlip from around the counter shaft
- After you've removed all the housing bolts, and freed the counter shaft from the gear housing, the gear housing and clutch housing will separate. You may have to pry, as they are stuck together with Super-Gray RTV II.
3) Unbolt the reverse mechanism, and remove the fork, gear, and shaft.
4) Lift out the main shaft and counter-shaft as one unit. This is heavy and sharp. It sucks. Wear gloves.
5) Remove the differential. Again, gloves.
6) Using a slide-hammer and a bearing puller, remove the ISB from the clutch housing.
7) While you're in there, remove and replace the axle seals from both the clutch housing (this is why we took out the differential) and the gear housing. For installing all seals and bearings, use Honda Super-Urea Grease. It's green, stinks, and kicks ***.
8) Pound the new ISB (lubed up) into the clutch housing with a bearing race driver and a dead-blow mallet.
9) Using a green scotch pad, remove all the RTV from the sealing surfaces of the transmission. Flush the ENTIRE transmission out with some brake cleaner. Get out all the metal shavings and scraped-off RTV. Let it dry.
10) Replace the differential. Place the gearset back in as a whole unit. Replace the reverse mechanism.
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SITS COMPLETELY FLUSH, GODDAMNIT LIKE 1MM CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE.
11) Spread a thin layer of Super-Gray RTV II on the matings sufaces. Put the gear housing back on the clutch housing. Lower it back down with snap-ring pliers, holding the counter shaft circlip open. Bolt together in a star pattern.
13) If the circlip wouldn't snap back into place, drop (like I mean SLAM) the gear-housing on a thick phone book. This should pop it into place.
srry to threadjack,
my input shaft had about a MM play in both directions
are these signs of a ISB going out? (dont want to have to drop my tranny all over and crack the tranny open lol, its my dd)
my input shaft had about a MM play in both directions
are these signs of a ISB going out? (dont want to have to drop my tranny all over and crack the tranny open lol, its my dd)
Well ..... hmm. Here's a BASIC lack-luster how-to:
1) Drop transmission. Set the transmission, input-shaft down on some blocks of wood or cinder blocks, so the shaft doesn't touch the ground.
2) Open transmission:
- Take out the counter shaft plug (takes a 3/8 drive ratchet)
- You'll need to get snap-ring pliers to remove the circlip from around the counter shaft
- After you've removed all the housing bolts, and freed the counter shaft from the gear housing, the gear housing and clutch housing will separate. You may have to pry, as they are stuck together with Super-Gray RTV II.
3) Unbolt the reverse mechanism, and remove the fork, gear, and shaft.
4) Lift out the main shaft and counter-shaft as one unit. This is heavy and sharp. It sucks. Wear gloves.
5) Remove the differential. Again, gloves.
6) Using a slide-hammer and a bearing puller, remove the ISB from the clutch housing.
7) While you're in there, remove and replace the axle seals from both the clutch housing (this is why we took out the differential) and the gear housing. For installing all seals and bearings, use Honda Super-Urea Grease. It's green, stinks, and kicks ***.
8) Pound the new ISB (lubed up) into the clutch housing with a bearing race driver and a dead-blow mallet.
9) Using a green scotch pad, remove all the RTV from the sealing surfaces of the transmission. Flush the ENTIRE transmission out with some brake cleaner. Get out all the metal shavings and scraped-off RTV. Let it dry.
10) Replace the differential. Place the gearset back in as a whole unit. Replace the reverse mechanism.
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SITS COMPLETELY FLUSH, GODDAMNIT LIKE 1MM CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE.
11) Spread a thin layer of Super-Gray RTV II on the matings sufaces. Put the gear housing back on the clutch housing. Lower it back down with snap-ring pliers, holding the counter shaft circlip open. Bolt together in a star pattern.
13) If the circlip wouldn't snap back into place, drop (like I mean SLAM) the gear-housing on a thick phone book. This should pop it into place.
1) Drop transmission. Set the transmission, input-shaft down on some blocks of wood or cinder blocks, so the shaft doesn't touch the ground.
2) Open transmission:
- Take out the counter shaft plug (takes a 3/8 drive ratchet)
- You'll need to get snap-ring pliers to remove the circlip from around the counter shaft
- After you've removed all the housing bolts, and freed the counter shaft from the gear housing, the gear housing and clutch housing will separate. You may have to pry, as they are stuck together with Super-Gray RTV II.
3) Unbolt the reverse mechanism, and remove the fork, gear, and shaft.
4) Lift out the main shaft and counter-shaft as one unit. This is heavy and sharp. It sucks. Wear gloves.
5) Remove the differential. Again, gloves.
6) Using a slide-hammer and a bearing puller, remove the ISB from the clutch housing.
7) While you're in there, remove and replace the axle seals from both the clutch housing (this is why we took out the differential) and the gear housing. For installing all seals and bearings, use Honda Super-Urea Grease. It's green, stinks, and kicks ***.
8) Pound the new ISB (lubed up) into the clutch housing with a bearing race driver and a dead-blow mallet.
9) Using a green scotch pad, remove all the RTV from the sealing surfaces of the transmission. Flush the ENTIRE transmission out with some brake cleaner. Get out all the metal shavings and scraped-off RTV. Let it dry.
10) Replace the differential. Place the gearset back in as a whole unit. Replace the reverse mechanism.
MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SITS COMPLETELY FLUSH, GODDAMNIT LIKE 1MM CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE.
11) Spread a thin layer of Super-Gray RTV II on the matings sufaces. Put the gear housing back on the clutch housing. Lower it back down with snap-ring pliers, holding the counter shaft circlip open. Bolt together in a star pattern.
13) If the circlip wouldn't snap back into place, drop (like I mean SLAM) the gear-housing on a thick phone book. This should pop it into place.
Next time youre in California, I owe you a beer.
Im going to do a write up on this with pictures to help future pps, can I use youre list and ill give you credit where its due?
Sure. I'm sure there's a better writeup somewhere, but I think the pictures were gone. This is just from memory, and my experiences.
It's not something I ever want to do again.
It's not something I ever want to do again.






