i am thinkin about doing a nonVtec build with my b20, but i wanna see some builds before i do it so i can get an idea of what i need to do, and i care more about torque than hp. so just post your nonvtec builds here.

 

all motor non-vtec builds, they go in here. I honestly think it is pointless, a vtec head costs what, $300? You will benefit so much more.

 

thats not the point of the thread, so take your garbage info and go somewhere else and post

 

My post was not only the only reply in this thread, it is the most beneficial. There is a reason why all you hear is crickets and nobody replying, because it is known that an LS or B20 is good one of two ways.

1. Leave it stock and it will last forever

2. Put a Vtec head on it. For $300, name a part that you can put on an LS.B20 that can yield you 25-40whp? There isn't one, thus, my wisdom is quite valid.


You're welcome btw, was just trying to help and save you from wasting your money.

 

I had a fully built Ls. type r complete brand new bottom end with a b20 ported and polished head with 30 thousands shave, ferrea dual valve springs and retainers, crower cams, type r knock off intake mani and type r exhaust mani, arp studs, block guard, 310 injectors, bla bla bla also 75 shot of NOS, and b16 cable trans. that car hauld ***.... it was interesting and got attention if i was to do it again ( i will ) id use a LS bottom end.

 

ITR style slugs, crower valvetrain, 404's, a performer x, and decent header 180-190+ whp, 150+ ft/lbs..

Peak torque at 3k? ... what?

 

have you compared a dyno chart between a built non vtec b20, and a b20vtec?

 

you cant just slap a vtec head on a non vtec block, you have to get the GE vtec conversion kit, it will be way more than 300 bucks, so therefore your info is no use to me, and if i wanted a b20vtec build i would have posted about b20v but thats not what i want, i want info on a nonvtec build, so take your **** and go somewhere else, thanks

 

did you every dyno this set up?

 

GE Kit consits of an OEM headgasket (which you would have to replace anyways when building your b20)

A 20 dollar sandwich plate, a 10 dollar braided line, and some 10 dollar dowels.

So that is an extra $40 essentially compared to the extra 2k-4k you will spend on parts to build an LS/B20 to make similar power.

Makes sense though to spend all that much more to achieve the same, good luck with your build.

 

thats still not the point of the thread, i dont want b20v obviously, if i wanted b20v i wouldnt have even made this thread, so stfu and gtfo

 

i'm on your same boat b20btegg, the parts i listed above is what i'm going after, after i receive my longblock..

do you have any form of tunage, or own a nice header or anything already?

 

LMAO

 

What you aren't considering is the build price. With a vtec head you can use factory intake manifolds and factory cams. Factory vtec cams have as much or more lift and duration than most (if not all) street-able non-vtec cams. The same goes with intake manifolds. Even at best a fully ported P75 head ($$add however many dollars to the build here$$)will flow only marginally better than a vtec head. You WILL eventually want more power and swap on a vtec head. Save yourself the trouble and do it right the first time. You will also spend less money using a vtec head.

 

There's been 1000s of non-vtec threads that end up in people saying go VTEC conversion,etc and it gets really old. Let the guy decide what he wants to do.

Non-VTEC DOHC/SOHC setups are pretty fun as well. Not everyones going for big huge max power. A non-vtec setup can produce a decent amount of power thats fun to drive and race. On top of that, you can put some wild aggressive cams and they sound sick on a non-vtec NA setup.

 

^^thanks guys,

 

did you not read the posts above, if i wanted to go b20v then i would do it, but thats now what i want, i guess yall dont understand and are slow or something

 

you can have a nice/decent non-vtec setup. if you search around you will find plenty of setups and dyno sheets to give you an idea of what to expect. just dont expect "vtec" like peak power out of your non-vtec setup.

cams/springs/retainers/headwork/IM/header/exhaust/tuning will give you a good bump in power over stock.....its all about how much you want to spend.

 

I have a bone stock LS which suits the car fine for track duty and any auto x competition. As you can see, my opinion is not biased at all, I own one myself. It is fine for the time being, rev's are a little short for my liking but that's okay, comes with the territory.

Reason I never touched it, because I know whether I put a new powerplant in or not, both would be a moneypit as anyone can agree, however, the non-vtec powerplant, well, you can compare it to the common saying of "trying to get blood out of a stone" when trying to make it compare to a vtec motor or half+half hybrid. They are good as is, or with forced induction, beyond that, common sense says stay away. Are there non-vtec builds faster than vtec, yes, but it took them a lot more to get there than the vtec guy did. To me, its not a pissing match, its, how can I spend the most sensible amount of money, still have fun, and have something well built and reliable.

I would like to know how I am wrong trying to justify a 3-4 thousand dollar build compared to a 3-400 dollar one which would yield similar results. But anyways, I just noticed its an 09 member so that explains a lot to me. On that note, I am out.

Good Luck

 

i dont care about money, i want a non vtec build because with my b20 i have peak torque from 2.8k up, i like the power band over a vtec motor,

 

If you understood the How and Why of Vtec's engineering, then you would realize how wrong this is.

Edited for proof, show me a simple build B20 that has torque curve that flat

 

Some of us just like what we have...and that's fine...seriously, back off.
It's not that people who drive non-vtec motors are ignorant and don't understand or appreciate the advantages of the VTEC system, or the flow of the VTEC heads. If anything, we appreciate it even more, as it's harder for us to make the same power, and we have to deal with the little driveability quirks that are part of the reason that VTEC was developed in the first place.
I drive a cammed LS. I drive it because I like it. I like the burbly idle, I like that it doesn't sound like any other Honda around here, and I like the instant off-idle throttle response and torque.
OP, my advice is this-if you want a Non-VTEC, then build a non-vtec. If you want to go as fast as possible for as little money, VTEC is your best bet. A well built nonvtec won't be slow...and when paired with a B16/GSR tranny, they're a blast to drive.

 

The original question was opinions on Non-VTEC setups. Respect what the guy is asking for. Thats what he wants to do, let the people with Technical information about it speak up.

We can go with:
nonvtec vs vtec
B ser vs K series
Turbo vs all motor
Its not going to prove anything, but just let the guy do what he wants. Theres dozens of opinions on why someone should just go K series since it has more potential than a B, but we dont ever knock on the B for what it is.

We've done 190HP LS setups, 180-190hp d16a6, 200hp H23 builds for customers. Its cool to see people want to try something just because its there to do, not because its what everyone else does. Its interesting people are down for it for the "fun" aspect of it and not just for the hp numbers.

To the OP, there's plenty of non-vtec threads on here. Just search up. Good luck

 

Hi
My opinion is that a B20Vtec will be great but vtec cams arent big TQ producer without the VTEC.
and Only type R one will bring you at great TQ numbers on 12:1CR

Other hand nonvtec need less CR and is REALY great in city. on Crower 62403 you will find lot of torque and good top end.
180Whp
My B20 built made 140TQ all over the rpm range with a peak 148TQ on stock LS cams...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/my-nonvtec-b22b-frankenstein-2658830/
Cant wait for the 404's

 

OP, if you're serious about building a Non-VTEC setup, feel free to shoot me a PM with any questions you have. Since you asked for setups, here's mine.
Samco intake arm with Blox velocity stack
Brian Crower stage 2 cams (BC022 part number)
Crower valvetrain
Vision cam gears
Hytech replica header straight through to Tanabe exhaust
P/S is deleted, still have working AC.
Fidanza flywheel/Spec clutch, and a GSR tranny.
Motor is in a 2400lb teg chassis.